Steel Choice For Threading Then Welding

G-ManBart

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2020
Messages
1,042
Hey all,

I put this in the beginner's section as I'm sure it's a pretty simple question. I'm repairing an old Charles Parker 975 vise for a buddy and need some advice. This is a 105lb vise that's at least 75 years old so most of the metal is a mystery other than the body being ductile iron most likely.

My buddy put a long cheater pipe (like 3-4ft) on the handle and broke the screw in half...he now knows cheater pipes on vises are a bad idea! He asked me to fix it, and that's a repair I've done in the past a number of times, but this one is a bit different. Normally I buy a length of all thread (square or Acme as needed) turn down one end so it's smooth, cut the old thread off the spindle head, then bore a hole in the spindle to match the turned down section, press the new screw into the bore then run a TIG bead around where the two meet. I usually also cross-pin by drilling through the spindle and through the new section of screw, drive a press fit pin in until it's slightly countersunk, then tack weld that with the TIG and then smooth it over. That gives me a weld bead and a pin to hold the two parts together...so far it's been perfect.

This vise has a screw that's an oddball size....call it 1.100" and 4TPI square thread. I haven't been able to find that, so I'm going to have to turn down some stock and cut the appropriate threads. I'm planning to use a grooving insert that's .189" since the groove is .190" or a touch bigger (I'm going to make more careful measurements before proceeding). Since I'm going to have a pretty long work piece and a fairly wide insert I'm looking for a steel that will be a bit easier to machine while still something I can weld successfully. I'm not particularly worried about the strength of the steel since I doubt anything special was used when it was made, and I've told him not to beat the heck out of his grandfather's vise again!

Feel free to comment if my plan sounds off. I already have plenty of mild steel in 1.25" and 1.5" round already (and maybe bigger) so I can do a test piece out of mild steel first if I wind up buying something different for the final product. I'm also in no rush, so there is zero pressure.

Anybody have a suggestion for what steel might make a good balance between machinability and weldability?
 
Hopefully you have a follow rest. I doubt that a grooving insert has sufficient side clearance on the leading side, I would grind a HSS tool for the job.
 
I don't weld, but have turned 4130, 4140 and hot rolled 8620 all which are reported to be weldable but with some caveats. The hot rolled 8620 of the three was a bit easier to turn in my recollection and is considered to be quite weldable. It also has good durability.

This was two pieces of 8620 HR, one was turned down into an ER-40 lathe chuck.
8620 - 5 inch..jpg


20171008_165840.jpg
 
8620 is very little harder to machine than mild steel, in my experience.
 
Hopefully you have a follow rest. I doubt that a grooving insert has sufficient side clearance on the leading side, I would grind a HSS tool for the job.

A follow rest is almost the only thing I don't have for this particular lathe (Sheldon 13")....still have my eye out for one. I could probably make one if needed. I have a follow rest for my Clausing (14 x 48) but I have it partially disassembled for a light restoration/update.

My tool grinding skills are still in the "developing" stage, but I'm not in a rush so I can take my time and do the trial and error method on mild steel....I probably have 15ft of 1.5" round stock.
 
I don't weld, but have turned 4130, 4140 and hot rolled 8620 all which are reported to be weldable but with some caveats. The hot rolled 8620 of the three was a bit easier to turn in my recollection and is considered to be quite weldable. It also has good durability.

This was two pieces of 8620 HR, one was turned down into an ER-40 lathe chuck.
View attachment 415661


View attachment 415662

Would you say 8620 is harder to turn than mild steel like 1018?
 
Don't know about the weding differencw since I haven't welded 8620. Try at all costs to avoid 1018. As soon as you cut the threads it will turn into a corkscrew. Go with the A36 hot rolled steel. It will stay pretty straight and is easily welded. Only used a little 4130 and did not eld it.
 
Back
Top