Starrett Level Cost

[atlas ten]

Thanks for comments everyone. I am waiting for a 12" Lufkin #57. I just hope that it will work for me.
Jack

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[RIMSPOKE]

IMO. The best levels are Pratt-Whitney machinists levels. Pricey but better than Starrett.

PRATTS ARE GREAT BUT DON'T KNOCK STARRETT LEVELS UNTIL YOU USE A #199 .

 

[TOOLMASTER]

i use my iphone..

 

[chevydyl]

I have a starrett 98-6, take note, it is NOT A precision level, it is a machinist bench level, accuracy of .005" per ft, I also have a Pratt & Whitney master level, accurate to .0005" per foot, I got the vintage starett for like 60 bucks off ebay, I'm a sucker for old tools sometimes and this one belonged to an old machinist that worked on the hoover dam. I used the starrett to level the machines, perfectly adequate for that job in the home shop, however I bought the pratt for machine reconditioning, and inspection, Which the starett 98 model is not good enough for, the 199 is the equal to the pratt. When I bought my standridge surface plate I asked them what they thought about import plates, he said sometimes they actually are the grade they say they are, sometimes they are way outta whack, they make this determination when they are calibrating new or used plates from customers, so I think the hit and miss will apply to import precision levels as well, maybe the vial isn't parallel with the bed of the level, maybe it is. If you buy a starrett, it will be, and that's why a used starrett 98 costs more or the same as a new import master level lol.
I think you should get the level that is appropriate for the work your going to do, don't buy a master level if your just going to level you machines, chasing the bubble will drive you nuts.

 

[atlas ten]

Got the new to me level. Was way out of adjustment.
Jack

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[chevydyl]

You know how to calibrate it right?
I'm super ocd so a pencil outline isn't good enough for me, I have to have it next to a right angel so it sets perfect on the twist, but whatever you set it on make sure that you let it set there for around an hour so that the level normalizes to the temperature of the thing you set it on. Then go to work splitting hairs. I really don't like the mechanism for adjusting on those machinist bench levels, I have a 98-8, thought it was a 6 when I posted earlier but i checked and it's an 8, the precision levels have a screw which makes the adjustment much easier. Remember the surface you calibrate doesn't have to be perfectly level, just somewhat close so the bubble isn't touching the ends of the vials when you 180 it. Good luck, I hope that it suits your needs, it looks good.

 

[kd4gij]

I was just wondering, What does the Navy use to level the machines on there ships?

 

[John Hasler]

I was just wondering, What does the Navy use to level the machines on there ships?

They understand that leveling is not an end in itself but just a convenient way to check flatness.

 

[John Hasler]

Remember the surface you calibrate doesn't have to be perfectly level, just somewhat close so the bubble isn't touching the ends of the vials when you 180 it.

If your surface is flat and approximately horizontal there will be some orientation such that the bubble in a perfectly calibrated level will be perfectly centered and will remain so when you 180 it.

 

[chevydyl]

true, but I calibrate my level sometimes on my lathe bed, good luck trying to rotate it around to some obscure position to find the level spot.
I was also meaning the surface you are using to calibrate the level, not the surface you are trying to level.
Id like to point out also, that some levels may be relieved in the center, so only the outer 30% of each end touches, its a common practice for levels that are used to level machines. spotting on a plate can reveal that trait.