Show us your South Bend Lathe

I'm restoring my 70 year old southbend -- nearly finished ,, will take some pic's and post you all the info soon

Bruce
 
Re: 1947 9" model A South Bend Lathe


Anasazi, What fasteners did you use on the vertical legs??? Dry wall screws, nails, lags or whatever??? This might become my SB 7" shaper bench...

John
 
comstock-friend said:
Re: 1947 9" model A South Bend Lathe


Anasazi, What fasteners did you use on the vertical legs??? Dry wall screws, nails, lags or whatever??? This might become my SB 7" shaper bench...

John
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3" SS Split Stop Star Drive wood screws. were the only fasteners besides the joinery. mostly for the top and bottom rails. It is way stout and would work well for your shaper.
 
John, I just purchased a 10K and ordered the serial card from Grizzly. I am still drinking from a fire hose in trying to learn about the lathe so I was wondering what code tells you if you have a hardened bed? Thanks.


comstock-friend said:
My new (1958) 13 inch, on delivery day. 93 miles plus my driveway from hell, finally in my somewhat crowded garage.
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Got the Grizzy order card. Pretty sure it had a hardened bed (all ground) but lathe did not have the badge. Card confirms it is hardened.

John
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Duker said:
John, I just purchased a 10K and ordered the serial card from Grizzly. I am still drinking from a fire hose in trying to learn about the lathe so I was wondering what code tells you if you have a hardened bed? Thanks.
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The 'X' on my 6715TKX means a 'special' I believe, usually being a hardened bed but not always. Check out Steve Well's web page, lots of good South Bend stuff.

(Also, the hardened beds are ground, so you don't see the typical scraping marks on them.)

John
 
John, thank you for information and reference. I will check out Steve Wells site.

comstock-friend said:
The 'X' on my 6715TKX means a 'special' I believe, usually being a hardened bed but not always. Check out Steve Well's web page, lots of good South Bend stuff.

(Also, the hardened beds are ground, so you don't see the typical scraping marks on them.)

John
Click to expand...
 
I am still curious about a post to this thread made by Weldingrod1 on 12-02-13 at 02:32PM about finally converting his SB threaded nose lathe splindle to a D1-3, but with no detailed description of how this was done (spindle change?). The associated picture makes it look like a spun on adaptor was used since it has a large thread (2 1/4" - 8?) still visible in the nose of the D1-3 flange.

Despite a number of queries I have not got a reply to clarify how the conversion was really done.

The original post is on currently on page 5 of this thread. Anybody out there looked at this and maybe had the same question?

Would like to hear about it.

Canuck75
 
Here's my 1956 Heavy 10L, with the short 3 1/2" bed. I've only had it for a couple of months, so still cleaning it up. The prior owner didn't know much about it, had miss-wired the motor and switch (with hot and neutral swapped and no ground wire, electrocution was a very real risk!). Someone (not me) went after the paint with a wire wheel... All in all, it's in great shape mechanically, and had nearly all the attachments except taper and micrometer stop...

It was sold to W.T. Wills Machinery Co in Los Angeles, CA... Beyond that, the prior owner said it was used at Berkley before being sold at auction. I purchased it from someone, who's late father (I'm told) purchased it from Berkley... The headstock is still within spec, and the test bar I made just after getting it running, indicates the bed is still in good shape as well. The four jaw chuck is a SB original, the three jaw is a Buck.
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-Vern
 
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