Show Us Your Shop Made Tooling!

Care to share how you did this one?


When you do, use locktite in there. Long ago we machined several even knurled the ends. Then left them at auto and hardware stores
on the counters.......used for advertising.........
 
I've had a little brass hammer for many years that someone made long ago. It is definitely used and I always think about who made it and what they were thinking when they made it. It's a good feeling to know that something you make will last for generations, so with that being said, I decided to make my own version of an aluminum / brass inserted hammer that hopefully someone 40 years from now will appreciate. Very basic, but I enjoyed it very much.

alum hammer.JPG
 
I thought the commercial rotary broach holders were priced way too high for what they are so I rolled my own. Body and tool holder from scrap 1018 crs, modified MT3/JT4 drill chuck arbor $8, ball and thrust bearings $30. I still need to make a straight arbor for using in the mill. Cutter in picture is 1/2" hex from Polygon. I plan on making my own as soon as I get my furnace built. So far I have used it to hex broach steel pinion gears.

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Jay

Jbolt, That is a very clean and slick looking design! Can you elaborate on the tool with some sizes and maybe part numbers to the bearings?

How do you adjust the broaching tool to run concentric?

Thanks
 
OK, so it's very similar to a rotary hammer drill in action. What I want to know is how is he producing the wobble?

It produces a wobble because the longitudinal axis of the cutting tool is off by a degree or so compared to the axis of rotation of the work being cut.
When the work rotates ( or vice versa with the cutting tool) the cutting tool is carried with it but since the tool center line is not square with the work a rocking motion is produced whereby the cutting edges of the tool move in and out in a reciprocating motion against the work.
It's just like the tool edges are chiseling the work in a rapid succession.

I hope I have explained it simple enough.
 
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It produces a wobble because the longitudinal axis of the cutting tool is off by a degree or so compared to the axis of rotation of the work being cut.
When the work rotates ( or vice versa with the cutting tool) the cutting tool is carried with it but since the tool center line is not square with the work a rocking motion is produced whereby the cutting edges of the tool move in and out in a reciprocating motion against the work.
It's just like the tool edges are chiseling the work in a rapid succession.

I hope I have explained it simple enough.
I know that now. I was so fascinated by it that I'm actually building one now. You can read about it here: http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/19945-Shop-made-Rotary-broach-holder-and-broaches

Marcel
 
I've had a little brass hammer for many years that someone made long ago. It is definitely used and I always think about who made it and what they were thinking when they made it. It's a good feeling to know that something you make will last for generations, so with that being said, I decided to make my own version of an aluminum / brass inserted hammer that hopefully someone 40 years from now will appreciate. Very basic, but I enjoyed it very much.

Hi McGuyver
Nice work
Not bad at all
Good show.
aRM
 
I completed my drawbar wrench/hammer for my X2 mill today. I’m quite pleased with it. It’s not perfect, but I’m proud of it. It was made from a store bought deep socket, and brass and aluminum I inherited in Dad’s workbench. This project was based on and inspired by the Soft Faced Hammer Project on the Projects in Metal Forum.

Chuck

That's definitely a beautiful piece of work, and your pride is justified. I've had my X2 for a number of years, and one of the first things I did was to dig through my "slush pile" of old wrenches to find one that fit the drawbar. I shortened it to about 6 1/2", just right to tighten the R8 collets sufficiently without going "farmer tight."

Very soon thereafter, I decided I needed to add some kind of soft-face hammer, to help release the collets. Being crude and lazy, I just found a random chunk of aluminum and milled it to fit (about 9/16 by 1 1/2 by 3/4"), sanded the curve to fit the wrench, and added a slot to accept a small hose clamp. It's been extremely handy, especially since I don't have to turn it to alternate between wrench mode to hammer mode.

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I haven't made many tools or fixtures, myself. One of the reasons for joining this forum to learn more about machining and how to set up and make some of the tools and things I need. I've gotten many good ideas from many of you members here and my project list is probably longer already than I'll ever be able to complete with what I have. Thanks for that to everyone.
I was able to make a barrel vise for Thompson barrels and was very happy when it actually worked to remove 2 very stuck barrels from receiver nose sections without galling them, that I could not get out trying many other methods. its not too complicated but for one of my first machining projects I was pleased when it was successful.

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I am not sure who I stole this from, but I really liked the idea. My big Clausing has a lot of torque and I have needed a quick vise for some of my drilling. So here is the evidence of my crime. :))

Randy

Quickvise 1.jpg Quickvise 2.jpg
 
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