Shop Lighting

I have 12 4' fluorescent fixtures in my 24' X 30' shop, they have been in for about 20 years and I have never replaced any lamps.
It maybe because my shop is always heated, in the winter only to about 40 deg. unless I am working out there.
 
I think that I will start replacing the fixtures with the T-8 fixtures. I have about fourteen 4 footers and about a third of those are dead.

Instead of replacing the whole fixture, just get replacement T-8 Ballasts. The sockets are the same as the ones for the T-12 bulbs.
 
Well Gents, you can thank our hero in the whitehouse because it won't be long and you will replace your T12's or live in the dark. He has obsoleted them to SAVE YOU, energy and pollution. One major reason they do not do well in low temp situations is because they contain mercury. The mercury condenses into droplets when the lamp is off and cold. Ever notice how they swirl and flash when you turn them on? Then after they warm up they calm down and get brighter because the mercury has ionized again and remixed with the other gasses in the lamp. Tubes with GREEN ends are a version without mercury but are not as color corrected or efficient. You really can't tell unless you have light meters and other test devices.

T8 and T5 lamps are the wave of the future. They show a lot of promise but only time will tell if they are a good replacement.

Your shop lights burn out because you buy them at the home fix-it place and they are junk. Cheap and junk. If you spend more and buy a UL approved, quality name fixture your burn outs will all but disappear. Defective light fixtures will show themselves in the first 30 to 60 days while under warranty, and if contractor installed labor is free too. Properly maintained commercial lighting works like this. In four years of average burn time, you re-lamp every fixture in the place and clean the fixtures. Unless the light is in a critical location, if it quits working you fix it on the four year maintenance cycle. This way you are not messing around all the time. After you re-lamp you will be amazed at the difference in lighting level. Remember, 4 years or 25% drop in lighting level. It's what the pros recommend.

Lights that are not switched do last longer. Some more than others. Why? Because you are not shocking the lamp filament by going from room temperature to brilliantly white hot in nano seconds. When you buy lamps don't buy the grocery store specials and the bargain packages. Buy lamps with the highest voltage rating you can find. Severe service, rough duty, traffic signal, are other key terms to look for. Reason: In these type lamps, the part that does all the work, the filament, is made from a larger gauge wire and has more supports so it does not droop, sag, and stretch while it its white hot almost molten state. Hence-longer life.

On the above post, yes in some cases you may do as he suggests. Watch the height of the lamp holders. Florescent lamps must have a grounded metal reflector mounted within a certain distance away from the full length of the lamp. How far? I am not sure but I do know that if the distance is too far you will get short lamp life or they won't work at all. The fixtures I am around are built correctly from the get go so I never have to think about this detail.
 
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The T-8's I bought are still junk---- the fixtures are lasting about two years. I am going to give LED's a try.
 
Try some t5 lights, neighbor built a new farm shop and put these in wow what a difference. Am thinking about changeling my t4 over my lathe and milling machine out


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My uncle who was an electrician used flourescents in his unheated shop. However he used HO (High Output) ballasts - they would start and buy at normal brightness even at -30F . I'm not sure that they are still available or if the Energy Police have banned them due to lack of efficiency. I have T8s in my heated shop and they are OK but don't plan on listening to FM radio with them turned on.
Michael
 
Make sure you get the exact replacement lamp for your fixture by checking the lamp type on the ballast. Many of the cheap shop lights require a specific type lamp that isn't readily available. Some won't even start with energy efficient lamps installed.
If you replace the ballast with a newer electronic ballast you will probably need to check the wiring diagram on the ballast. Some require the lamps to have both of the pins connected to one wire from the ballast or lamp life will be less. A jumper wire across the socket will do. Also be careful when replacing sockets in older fixtures since all bi-pin sockets are not the same now.
 
how about incandescent or halogen for your non-heated shops. they will give off some heat to help keep you warmer.


Mark
 
I have one fluorescent fixture left, it uses T-8 bulbs, and is a cold weather model. It is out in my garage. Good place for it too.

I only have 5 CFLs left in my house. I used to have 6, but one of them nearly started the house on fire when it decided to go south. No more CFLs.

Just bought 8 60W equivalent soft white LEDs for $8.00 each, and a couple of daylight ones as well. Wife likes them, I like them, they consume 9.5 watts each and don't require hazmat disposal, plus they have a 10 year warranty. Estimated yearly energy cost per bulb at 3 hours per day is $1.14 (at $0.11 per kWh). If I install eight bulb fixtures in my shop (12' x 14') it should be pretty well lit. The average of 3 hours per day in the shop sounds about right for me, maybe even a bit high. So, total cost to light my shop 3 hours per day for 10 years, plus the cost of the bulbs comes to a grand total of $72.96 Add in $25 for the cost of electrical boxes, wire, and porcelain light fixtures and I'm still below $100 for a ten year period.

I'll bet you guys can't guess what I am going to put in my shop??
 
... He also told me to buy the ballast starters from Grainger and not home Depot. Rich

+1 on this. I bought the el-cheapo Home Depot 4' T8 fixtures, and while the sheet metal is fine for my purposes, the ballasts they came with were absolute crapola.
Of 14 fixtures, 11 failed in two years. I've been replacing the ballasts as they fail, with these:
http://www.usalight.com/2-Lamp-4-T8-Fluorescent-Ballast-B2x32-120-277-p/b2x32-120-277-e.htm

While that's still an "economy" ballast, I haven't had any fail in 2-3 more years of use.
 
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