Shop floor options

Been doing some research on sealers. I did not know this was going to be so complicated to chose a sealer type, let alone a brand!

My hand troweled "slick" finished floor seems like it would benefit from a Silane/Siloxane combination penetrating sealer, which should both soak into the floor as well as provide some top protection. Top protection deemed important as NE winters will means snow/ice/salt dripping off the truck on the floor in winter. I really do not need the wet look top coat, and this type would leave the floor looking original color / sheen after treatment.

Foundation Armor SX5000 is one that I am looking at, about $65 / gallon. Comes either water or solvent based. Has high percentage of chemicals (40%), so should last longer than some of the cheaper stuff that is thinner.
 
I went with polyurethane and really like it so far.
Original garage with old concrete I epoxy coated and it lasted pretty well.
New shop concrete I did the same and it didn't last near as long. I guess the concrete was not as hard or time cured? not sure.
Third floor I did last november and I epoxied and polyurethaned and so far it has been great.
I don't feel there's much need for the epoxy other than coloring, so if a concrete look was wanted then just polyurethane alone would probably work great.
I was doing the same as you and there is so much info out there and so many opinions it's hard to tread water.

I have spilled about everything on this floor up to and including battery acid (not on purpose) I've skidded and pipe rolled my mills, lathe, head machine, shaper, and it does just fine.
I used water based "crystal clear semi gloss" from home depot. I thought at $45.00 a gallon it was expensive, but I don't feel that way anymore.
 
I used the Rustoleum two part epoxy garage floor paint. It holds up well to chips and casters. The places that have chipped paint also chipped the concrete, so that wasn't on the paint. I also have a 7000 lb shaper on casters, and it didn't hurt the paint. Acetone will discolor it and it doesn't get along with hot things at all.
 
Definitely seal it. Concrete both dusts (alkaline dust, bad for corrosion) and wicks up water (providing
a reservoir of humidity). Neither is much good for your motorized investments. I've used the polyurethane
floor paints (a sealer that you can see when it wears off), and expect that epoxy paints
are likewise acceptable (but could get slippery).

If you want good foot comfort, a few rubber-mat rugs will help, but things like vinyl floor
will just cause every heavy-laden wheel to sink in and stop rolling. That's inconvenient
when there's heavies to be shifted.

Good urethane concrete floor paint is rather... stinky. Plan on a week before you want to move in,
and/or leave doors and windows open while it cures.
 
Won't help with an existing floor but the cement guy that poured my shop suggested a sealer that has to be applied when power troweling, think at the very end. The cement has to still be wet. After 11 years the floor is still dust free and no oil stains even though Im a lousy house keeper

Greg
 
One little tip about cleaning up oil spills on concrete floors. The Mech Infantry mechanics we used to hire part time told me they always kept a trash can full of kitty litter and a couple of small wooden 2"x4" blocks at their work station in their automotive shops. Any time they had an oil spill they would scrub the concrete floor with a 2x4 block and a handful of kitty litter. Always lifted the oil right out of concrete, with never a stain. I've tried it many times since - always works perfectly. And vastly more cheap than oil absorbent stuff.

glenn
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top