Sherline Tailstock Misaligment

Yes, thanks for catching that, Karl. You need to cut your test bar on the tailstock end, not the chuck end. My mistake, period.

There is no hard and fast rules for which size center drill to use. I use the smallest I can that will support the work piece I have. For most things on a Sherline lathe, that's a #1 center drill. On my larger lathe, #2 is the smallest I use. Either is accurate but the deeper and bigger you go, the more weight you can sustain. There is no point to going bigger than absolutely necessary.

The tailstock locking screw is a pain; I hate having to grab a tool to lock something down. Make a rod and put a screw on one end to go into the tailstock and the other end with a handle or knob of some kind. Makes it tolerable to use.

Try not to overtighten stuff on Sherline tools. Much of our equipment is made from aluminum and it can strip. Most things will lock down when you feel contact + 1/8 turn. My tools are over 30 years old and nothing is stripped or damaged so this works.

I meant to tell you to verify headstock alignment before making and using your test bar. To do that, chuck a piece of 1/2" - 3/4" 12L14 or 6061 aluminum so that about 4-5" of the rod is sticking out of your chuck. You can use your 3 jaw for this and you do not use a live center for this procedure. Now take a skim cut of about 0.010" deep all the way down the bar, followed by a 0.003" deep cut, then a 0.001 deep cut and strive for a good finish. Now measure the OD on the far end, the chuck end and in the middle. All readings should be the same. If it is not then the headstock is out of alignment.

There is a set screw in front of the headstock that holds the headstock to a large post in the bed. There is also a key under the headstock that provides rough alignment but it is not accurate. Anyway, loosen that screw and move the headstock in the appropriate direction and do another 0.003", then another 0.001" deep cut and re-measure. Repeat this until you get zero difference anywhere along that rod. THEN your headstock is aligned. I meant to mention that Sherline probably did not bother to do this and if this is so then their measurement procedure is meaningless, as is their statement of accuracy. It is always best to test and verify yourself.

The Sherline lathe is an incredibly accurate, precision tool. It is accurate because of their leadscrew and surprisingly, their gibs! Who would have thought that reinforced plastic could be an effective gib material but it is and they will last a lifetime when adjusted correctly. Spend some time adjusting them. To do so, back off the gib adjuster screw so the gib can move. Now tap the gib out a little so it is definitely loose. When I do this, I take the gib out and lube it, then reinstall for adjustment. Shake the thing you're adjusting with hand pressure and you should feel movement. Gently and slowly tap the gib back in, twisting and moving the thing you're working on with hand pressure until all movement and slop is eliminated. Go slowly and in tiny increments until you eliminate all slop, then lock the gib down. Take your time because it is likely that the gib will not need adjustment for a decade or more so get it right. Do this for all the gibs on your machines.

The other thing that allows the Sherline lathe to be so accurate is your turning tools. I highly recommend you stick with HSS on this lathe. HSS will easily outperform brazed carbide, inserted carbide and inserted HSS tools on this lathe. Most users use 1/4" bits but I prefer 3/8". If you're interested, join us on the model tools thread.

Anyway, welcome to HM. If we can help, sing out.

Mike
 
Mike,
Thank you for the clarification, and additional instructions and information. I like high accuracy and precision; I am glad to read that the Sherline lathe can be adjusted to achieve them.
I am a beginner in machining. For example, when I see a collet, I amuse myself by asking, "What do you call it?"
For the tailstock, I have the Sherline adjustable live center, an adjustable chuck holder, adjustable bullnose live center, and adjustable custom tool holder. For setting these, I have the idea to add to your test-bar usage instructions a dial test indicator for checking and achieving vertical alignment. (Dial indicator for horizontal alignment, and dial test indicator for vertical alignment.)
I want to learn to grind my own HSS tools. How cutting tools work is generally a mystery to me. It would be good for me to understand them for my iob, house repair and improvements, and hobbies.
Last month, I took advantage of Sherline's 20% off sale on milling machines to buy a model 5400 with extended column and DRO. I am following your recommendations in other threads in selecting accessories for it.
Karl
 
I really like my 5400 mill. Once upon a time, it was my only mill and I used it for everything. It is far more capable than you might think and is just as precise as the lathe.

You are starting with a Sherline lathe and mill but they are real machine tools. Everything you learn will transfer to larger machines if you choose to step up in size some time. My Sherline tools taught me almost everything I know about hobby machining and I am so grateful that I chose to listen.

If you have questions, ask.
 
ps: Aloris had a 20%-off sale in May. I ordered an MA-SET: MA-series quick-change tool post & three holders.
 
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mikey said:
Big bucks!
Click to expand...
Yes, the set costs a significant amount of money.
I was motivated to buy by this statement, "Had I known I would still be using my Sherine 20+ years later, and had the Aloris MA been available, I would have bought it without a second thought. The tool bit is the interface between the work and your intention; it must be held solidly. For my money, today, that would be the Aloris post." -- from "New Sherline Lathe Cutting Tool Recommedations Needed" begun on Nov 30, 2015.
 
I remember saying that. I currently use an aluminum tool post by TS Engineering, a now defunct company. It is like all aluminum tool posts on these lathes - okay, but you know that a good solid steel post will do better. I believe that if you can learn to grind a good HSS tool, your lathe will outperform mine with that Aloris post. I don't just mean it should rough deeper; I mean it should finish more precisely as well and that, Sir, is saying a lot.

You are going to find that your lathe, with a good tool, will pretty much cut what you dial in. If you can interpolate consistently, your lathe can take a tenth or two accurately. Not many lathes can do that. I believe that a good tool post has a lot to do with what the lathe is capable of so despite the rather large cash outlay, I suspect it will be money well spent.

Next we need to get you grinding some good HSS tools. Please believe me; it makes a difference.
 
Mike,

I accept/believe that shape of a cutting tool is an important factor in achieving good results in an efficient manner.

Toward the goal of grinding my own HSS tools, yesterday I read parts of "Models for Grinding HSS Lathe Tools". I came across another statement by you that is akin to statement regarding the Aloris MA tool post: "I think that if I was looking for a belt sander today, I would opt to buy or build a 2x72."

I think that I am going to end up with both an Aloris MA and a 2×72, because of you.

Karl
 
A good belt sander is one of the most useful tools in any shop and the best of the breed for metal workers is the 2 X 72. Go for it!
 
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