Sharpening Adjustable Reamers

[AmericanMachinist]

Hello,

I purchased a 6-piece set of adjustable hand-drive reamers made in the USA by K-D Tools. The largest is a #3032 and adjusts up to 1-1/16". The label on the box is almost gone and I can't find much info about these (if anyone has original instructions, etc).

The set was cheap but many of the cutters need sharpened. I don't have a surface grinder. Is there a chance these can be economically sharpened by someone or is it likely they sit in the drawer waiting for a future surface grinder?

Thanks for any suggestions on services to inquire with!

 

[mmcmdl]

Are these blade reamers ? Any pics ?

 

[AmericanMachinist]

Please excuse the dirt and grime; I have not cleaned them up yet (obviously). I dont know much about them yet but am trying to find out more.

Edit: There are also conical/tapered bushings that probably slide over the round shafts. But I didn't take a picture of those.

 

[mmcmdl]

LOL , the dirt and grime go with the trade . Easily sharpened on a surface grinder . The tip is the only cutting edge .

 

[Nutfarmer]

LOL , the dirt and grime go with the trade . Easily sharpened on a surface grinder . The tip is the only cutting edge .

Could you elaborate on sharpening? Do you disassemble the reamer and sharpen each blade or set up the reamer between centers.

 

[AmericanMachinist]

I have never done it (don't have a grinder), but in one video I saw online the shank is set in two v-blocks. A stop is used to rotate to each blade around the shank. The reamer is angled (using the stop) so that the blade is ground with the blade at a slight angle off of vertical, creating the relief angle.

 

[mmcmdl]

Could you elaborate on sharpening? Do you disassemble the reamer and sharpen each blade or set up the reamer between centers.

I have never done it (don't have a grinder), but in one video I saw online the shank is set in two v-blocks. A stop is used to rotate to each blade around the shank. The reamer is angled (using the stop) so that the blade is ground with the blade at a slight angle off of vertical, creating the relief angle.

Sure . Either way is acceptable . I made up fixtures for grinding these blades , as well Geometric chasers , planer blades , arrow head razor blades , chisels , etc etc etc . The blades are held in with angled so called washers and are easily removed for sharpening . The fixture was made with a compound angle for setting mounting angle as well as the relief angle in one shot . I still have many of these fixtures as well as the reamers , like boxes full . I was without a SG for many years and threw some of my old fixtures out over the years , but you get the idea . The fixture was not hard to make , but SG is the necessity . I now have in my presence my old friend B&S 618 Micromaster . Haven't powered it up yet but will one day soon I hope . As far as the reamers , I have no use for them anymore . One day they'll be posted below .

 

[Alcap]

Nothing to add about sharping them just in case you don’t know those reamers from KD are King Pin busing reamers . Nice to have . Those tapered bushings would go on the opposite end to keep it centered . Here’s a few pictures I found on the web

 

[Martin W]

Yes ,king pin reamers. People everywhere with antique vehicles are envious.
Cheers
Martin

 

[benmychree]

I have sharpened them many times with a tool & cutter grinder on centers. The body behind the tapered part that does the cutting can be reground cylindrical, then the tapered portion can be reground with clearance, I just cut And try to duplicate the clearance angle and taper.