SG Arbors

i may order a couple, but since i hate waiting i made one. i feel pretty confident i have the sides parallel.
 
Update and additional questions..

So at this point i have made several arbors, all left hand thread and they seem to work well. i have been practicing my surface grinding and while i have a long way to go i really like it.

I have made a wheel balancing arbor and I've tried to balance my wheels. the smaller, 1/4" diameter, wheels i can get pretty well balanced by drilling out pockets on the side, but my main wheel is a larger 1" diameter wheel that i cannot seem to get balanced .. so onto building a balancing ring like I've seen several youtube experts do where make a ring with a bunch of threaded holes and screw in set screws until its balanced.. So my question:

is there any reason i cannot take the actual arbor and put the threaded holes in it, fill them with the set screws to balance?
 
Another thing that can be done is to copy the way that Sopko does it on their hubs; on the backside, there is an extension that is 1-1/4" diameter and 1/2" wide, fitting onto it are two collars, fastened on with setscrews so that they can be rotated for adjustment, the collars are milled out on the backsides with a groove that is 5/16" wide and 3/16" deep for 180 degrees of rotation. and a match mark is stamped into each collar matching the end of the groove and with an arrow showing what direction the groove runs from the match mark, this is the same on both collars. In use, the collars are removed and the heavy side of the wheel is marked. then the collars are replaced, and the collars moved equally off the marks until balance is achieved. Having said all that, I have never used the one that I have, which I snagged on E Bay, if quality wheels are used up to about 7" diameter, there is little need to balance wheels for ordinary work, in my experience.
 
I've seen videos of those and they do look very sweet, albeit harder to make as i'd have to setup a rotary table. unless i move the wheel very slowly i get a ripple finish, its not too bad but its there. measuring my spindle with a .0001 indicator makes be believe its not my spindle.

One issue i have is with this 1" wheel there is no more room on the hub to put a collar or spacer ring so I'd have to build a new hub.. and while fun its not my first choice
 
projectnut said:
I'm surprised that the Thompson had a hard time with cuts of .005". We had a similar size Thompson at work and routinely did roughing passes of .005". Over the years I've used a number of different brands of grinders including Kent, K O Lee, Harig, and Brown & Sharpe. Most used 1/2" or 3/4" wheels and easily removed .005" per pass.

My little Sanford 612 will easily remove .005 per pass with 1/4" and 1/2" wheels, and it's only 1/3 hp. The machine will take up to a 3/4" wheel, but even then the step over is .100" or less per pass, so there's really no advantage to using a wider wheel. The most common wheels I use are 46 G, H, or J. These are the ones that will easily remove .005" on a rough cut. I don't think I would try to cut that much using 80, 100, or 120 wheels in that the wheels would wear down to nothing in short order.
Click to expand...
I guess that it all depends on the amount of step-over that is used, I like to take about half the wheel width with the Thompson, less with the micromaster, with minimal step over you could take .005, but I think it would cause excelerated wheel wear on the corners of the wheel.
 
Driveslayer45 said:
Update and additional questions..

So at this point i have made several arbors, all left hand thread and they seem to work well. i have been practicing my surface grinding and while i have a long way to go i really like it.

I have made a wheel balancing arbor and I've tried to balance my wheels. the smaller, 1/4" diameter, wheels i can get pretty well balanced by drilling out pockets on the side, but my main wheel is a larger 1" diameter wheel that i cannot seem to get balanced .. so onto building a balancing ring like I've seen several youtube experts do where make a ring with a bunch of threaded holes and screw in set screws until its balanced.. So my question:

is there any reason i cannot take the actual arbor and put the threaded holes in it, fill them with the set screws to balance?
Click to expand...
Awesome,
Please send us some pics of your work, otherwise.....It may not have happened :)
Plus, we all love to admire each others progress.
 
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