- Joined
- May 7, 2014
- Messages
- 776
INSTRUCTION TO CONNECT HITACHI WJ200 VFD to the Patriot unit.
Note- Hitachi WJ200 2.2Kw (3HP) implemented for this setup.
2HP 1000:1 CT motor on the way .
1HP stock motor will be a spare.
Setup:
*NOTE- this is unofficial and any attempts should be validated or peer reviewed. You should also call Hitachi tech support if you have any concerns or do not fully understand these devices and how they operate. This is just my own “how to guide” and represents my own efforts. No guarantees in short!
The install:
Order the correct unit for 220 single Phase or 220 3 phase. They are two different units. The “S” in WJ200-022SF means that it is single phase. An “L” means tri phase.
The Unit will NOT fit horizontal (long way’s like the old goldstar) in the older style patriot (pre-CNC integrated cabinet). It actually mounted vertical w/ the Keypad pointing down wards. This let me cut some nice Fan and vent setups in the rear cover w/ the Plasma machine. Gotta move that air on long hot jobs.
Wire’s and harness all fed up thru wire slots into WJ200 and tie-wrapped for strain relief.
220 operation is covered extensivly in the manual for power conditioning, HF noice reduction and to consider input fuses and such. For 220 cutout on the linecord to terminal block input. they suggest the use of a special “contactor” with dual hot leg or tri hot leg (3phase) cutouts suggested.
( E-Stop and Cutouts should NOT simply pop open 1 leg of the AC 220 input. (as mine was setup)) See code B087
There are specific e-stop parms and inputs on the VFD WJ200. Use them for correct stoppage. This can be wired in with your Mach3 estop setups in several config's I assume. I am not there yet.
MiniOperator keypad has a bezel kit to make it look real nice.
The regular Size “operator” (keypad) does NOT have a bezel kit. But use either as you wish. Both have a pot for FReq (Hz) adjustment.
The actual setup:
You need to decide if you will use the Operator (remote keypad) for the FWD/REV or the 3 position (drum some call it) switch assy.
For the DRUM/Rotary switch to work, I cover this in the setup below as it is what I did.
Connect the three wires as follows: L is common. Insert common wire there. terminal 1 connect to FWD position wire. Terminal 2- Connect REV. wire.
Insure the unit is setup to “sink” on inputs 1-7 w/ a jumper on PLC and 24 terminals. (default ship config). Inputs can sink or source. EE concept. Google it.
You may review page 31 of the user manual (not quick start) which outlines the diagram I followed.
If you “source” via some other Console w/ power setup for example some power controlled panels will have their own power supply you’ll need to do something pretty different. This is NOT covered here.
*Note- There is a free app called “PRODRIVENEXT” from Hitachi which will let you connect USB or Serial to the device for faster setups. I could not get this to work.
Connect to 220 power. Turn on.
Know your basic motor parms. 50 or 60Hz. Know your HP setting. Do not drive a 2HP motor w/ a 1HP VFD WJ200 etc. Suggested is to go one higher on the WJ200 (VFD) than your motor is capable of? (just noting what I was told)
On power up, The remote keypad will light up and you will then be able to go into the PROGRAMMING mode.
Use the guides to determine how to make menu and keystroke settings and changes.
The codes to change are as follows for the 1HPO patriot as I did mine.
b037 to 00 for full display of all functions
b031 to 10. This unlocks all the higher functions for editing.
A001 from 02 to 00 - Pot (potentiometer) for Remote Operator panel.
A002 from 02 to 01 this is the key to making programmable terminals 1 thru 7 (1 bring FWD and 2 being REV). work.
A003 change to 50 (for 50hz motor)
A004 Max Freq. If you over-clock your Motor for higher RPMS (knowing that Torque rolls off when you do this I’m told). I set mine to 110Hz.
A041- From 00 to 01 - Enable Automatic torque boost.
B092 Fan control 01 default 00 to put always ON. (I like to keep air moving.)
Note- Hitachi WJ200 2.2Kw (3HP) implemented for this setup.
2HP 1000:1 CT motor on the way .
1HP stock motor will be a spare.
Setup:
*NOTE- this is unofficial and any attempts should be validated or peer reviewed. You should also call Hitachi tech support if you have any concerns or do not fully understand these devices and how they operate. This is just my own “how to guide” and represents my own efforts. No guarantees in short!
The install:
Order the correct unit for 220 single Phase or 220 3 phase. They are two different units. The “S” in WJ200-022SF means that it is single phase. An “L” means tri phase.
The Unit will NOT fit horizontal (long way’s like the old goldstar) in the older style patriot (pre-CNC integrated cabinet). It actually mounted vertical w/ the Keypad pointing down wards. This let me cut some nice Fan and vent setups in the rear cover w/ the Plasma machine. Gotta move that air on long hot jobs.
Wire’s and harness all fed up thru wire slots into WJ200 and tie-wrapped for strain relief.
220 operation is covered extensivly in the manual for power conditioning, HF noice reduction and to consider input fuses and such. For 220 cutout on the linecord to terminal block input. they suggest the use of a special “contactor” with dual hot leg or tri hot leg (3phase) cutouts suggested.
( E-Stop and Cutouts should NOT simply pop open 1 leg of the AC 220 input. (as mine was setup)) See code B087
There are specific e-stop parms and inputs on the VFD WJ200. Use them for correct stoppage. This can be wired in with your Mach3 estop setups in several config's I assume. I am not there yet.
MiniOperator keypad has a bezel kit to make it look real nice.
The regular Size “operator” (keypad) does NOT have a bezel kit. But use either as you wish. Both have a pot for FReq (Hz) adjustment.
The actual setup:
You need to decide if you will use the Operator (remote keypad) for the FWD/REV or the 3 position (drum some call it) switch assy.
For the DRUM/Rotary switch to work, I cover this in the setup below as it is what I did.
Connect the three wires as follows: L is common. Insert common wire there. terminal 1 connect to FWD position wire. Terminal 2- Connect REV. wire.
Insure the unit is setup to “sink” on inputs 1-7 w/ a jumper on PLC and 24 terminals. (default ship config). Inputs can sink or source. EE concept. Google it.
You may review page 31 of the user manual (not quick start) which outlines the diagram I followed.
If you “source” via some other Console w/ power setup for example some power controlled panels will have their own power supply you’ll need to do something pretty different. This is NOT covered here.
*Note- There is a free app called “PRODRIVENEXT” from Hitachi which will let you connect USB or Serial to the device for faster setups. I could not get this to work.
Connect to 220 power. Turn on.
Know your basic motor parms. 50 or 60Hz. Know your HP setting. Do not drive a 2HP motor w/ a 1HP VFD WJ200 etc. Suggested is to go one higher on the WJ200 (VFD) than your motor is capable of? (just noting what I was told)
On power up, The remote keypad will light up and you will then be able to go into the PROGRAMMING mode.
Use the guides to determine how to make menu and keystroke settings and changes.
The codes to change are as follows for the 1HPO patriot as I did mine.
b037 to 00 for full display of all functions
b031 to 10. This unlocks all the higher functions for editing.
A001 from 02 to 00 - Pot (potentiometer) for Remote Operator panel.
A002 from 02 to 01 this is the key to making programmable terminals 1 thru 7 (1 bring FWD and 2 being REV). work.
A003 change to 50 (for 50hz motor)
A004 Max Freq. If you over-clock your Motor for higher RPMS (knowing that Torque rolls off when you do this I’m told). I set mine to 110Hz.
A041- From 00 to 01 - Enable Automatic torque boost.
B092 Fan control 01 default 00 to put always ON. (I like to keep air moving.)
Last edited: