Setting up Shop with a Craftsman 109.21280

evergreenblue

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Hello Everyone,

I figured I'd kick-off a thread for setting up my acquired mini lathe which will essentially be the foundation of my hobby machining endeavors. While I intend to chronical the cleanup, light restoration work, and set-up in this thread, I'll have plenty of questions so I'll compile that all here. Who knows, perhaps another hobbyist will come along with the same lathe and can follow along my progress, lessons learned, and such! I briefly touched on my personal limited metalworking experience, but will start with a bit of overview of the lathe and where I'm starting from.

I acquired this lathe a few years ago from an old buddy of mine through a simple trade. He had two craftsman 6" lathes, one of them being an Atlas model, so he offered this one up to me in trade of a new motor for his other lathe. This lathe has been stored for a while, so there's a bit of dusty grime and surface rust on the ways that I'll need to address, but otherwise it seems to be in pretty good shape. I've not been able to find a ton of information about this lathe outside of the UK Lathes History website and a few forum posts. My buddy had built a wooden platform for this lathe and painted it gold to match. He had the lathe on riser blocks, so the drive belt would clear the motor housing mounted underneath. The motor is only 1/4 hp, which I'm sure is underpowered - so first question to the group: do you all think this motor will be fine, or should I just plan to get a new motor? I recall reading that the pulley is mounted directly to the motor, and the backgears allow for two speed settings, making this a six-speed lathe, but this one has a countershaft. I assume the countershaft isn't original to this model, but is a nice feature to aid in slower cutting speeds. The lathe came with a few bits and pieces, certainly not all the tooling, but a start and I'm certainly grateful for what I've received!

So on to the plans for setup! I have a small space - it's a single car garage, 12x20 and 74" clearance. While I'm still unboxing my tools and organizing my space still, the plan is to have almost half my space set-up for metalworking (including some welding and forging to come), and the other half of my space for woodworking, along with some space for other random stuff like detail work (models, fly-tying, etc.), random house projects, and whatever might come along in my future. I'd like to keep the main area clear and flexible for large projects, so my bench space will be limited to 2' deep along the three walls. I picked up a couple 8' workbenches to start setting up the one side of my shop, and one of these benches will be dedicated to the lathe and general metal work. I'll set-up a small metrology space on the adjacent bench which I'll call my "detail" bench. I'd like to ditch the wooden base that my buddy built, which was intended to fit a wire rack, and mount this lathe directly to the bench. I was looking at fabricating my own chip/drip tray as a little sheetmetal project, and sketched up some ideas and ran them through a sheetmetal worker colleague of mine, but then came across a drip tray the perfect size at the auto parts store! At only $13, this was a fraction of the cost of raw material, so it seemed perfect for me. I'll plan to mount the lathe over this on the end of the bench.

I like the arrangement of the countershaft, so I'll need to figure out a riser block situation, which leads me to the first real inquiry to the group. I thought about casting something in ZA, as I've been looking into making up a replacement crossfeed handle, but the blocks would likely exceed the capacity of the size of furnace/crucible I'll plan on procuring. I also thought about sending off to a foundry for grey iron, but my two concerns there are cost and machining them flat. I've also thought about wood and plastic as options too, assuming I pick a material with some density. I do have some beech for my upcoming woodworking bench build, so I could use that, but my two concerns there would be the wood fibers compressing and/or dimensional instability and sealing the wood from any oils. Arguably, this lathe will never be accurate enough to worry about it, but I'd like to set up the lathe as accurately as possible. So my last option that I've explored is some sort of plastic - either HDPE or ABS, as they seem to be the best options and relatively inexpensive. Perhaps an option I'm not considering is to reconfigure the motor so it's not interfering with the belt, but I like the idea of the motor mounted behind the headstock so it's not getting as much debris on it. What are everyone's thoughts? Am I overthinking this?

I'll attach some pictures to help everyone's imagination out! As I progress, photos will be taken of course. :)
 

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Hello and welcome to the forum! It's great to see another "Bremallo" here.

Great start with the Craftsman. I think lathes like that go great with butcher block or any other nice piece of wood underneath. Maple is outstanding for dimensional strength. The original configuration was to place the motor behind the head stock like you mentioned. Your countershaft will need to be flipped back to its original state.

If you get hung up or need an extra hand making a part, send me a PM here. I'm in Bremerton's downtown city core and have a capability or two.

-John
 
Welcome aboard!
 
Nice 109 you have there , the counter shaft bracket is a early Atlas one , (I have the same one on my 101.07301) . I would use a block of wood for a riser , if you wanted to you could put a piece of 1/4 aluminum on top and then bolt the counter shaft bracket on top of it all .
For your motor , I asked the question a bit ago about a split phase motor . People said it might not have the power to start a machine (I don't know , that is what was said) . I would say that if that was the motor that was running your lathe , use it . And 1/4hp is what you want .
Keep us posted , Mark .
 
Hi All, thanks for the welcome and looking forward to getting going on this and engaging with everyone.

John, good to know there's someone so close! I'm right near the base, so likely not far. You mentioned the countershaft would have to be flipped back to its original state, does that mean it was mounted backwards by the previous owner? I was also thinking it would probably be best if I mount the motor behind the countershaft so I don't have to worry about added riser blocks for the lathe itself. With it just resting on the bench now, it seems to already be in a good spot with the handles at a comfortable height. I'll have to dig into which model this countershaft was originally used for and find some pictures.

Craig, thanks for the links, I've been referencing that site so far pretty extensively. The lathe didn't come with any of the change gears, and I'm not super familiar with how the arrangement works just yet, but it looks like there's at least the right gears for the 'back gear' operation. I did post an image up above, so take a look and let me know what you think. Regarding the full set of change gears for thread cutting, I was thinking of perhaps trying out the 3D printed versions to start and maybe eventually cast and cut some replacements as a later project as I get going on this. The only lathe I've used before was a South Bend with a quick change gear box, so I need to do some homework.

First step is cleaning this thing up and then leveling on the bench. I need to clear some space in the shop and continue my shuffle though. One step at a time. FYI, expect me to be slow!

Side question for those who know: I noticed there's several little oiling holes on this lathe, but they're gunked up with dust and debris. I'll of course be cleaning those up, but has anyone ever fitted these with little oil cups to keep it clean? Maybe I'm overthinking this, but seems like an opportunity for debris to get in and damage the bearings and such. Maybe I just need to keep them covered instead.

Thanks,

David
 
Yep, if you're near the base, then no matter which way you slice it, we're walking distance from each other. Cool!

The prior owner shifted your belt countershaft around to fit the motor in its alternate position. The countershaft sheaves remain centered in the yoke, the driven pulley comes off of the countershaft, and the countershaft gets shifted to the operator's left. The rightmost part of the shaft will be flush with the yoke. The excess shaft is now hanging on the left side, that's where the driven pulley goes.

The riser that was mentioned might belong under the countershaft support. The motor should be affixed with a single pivot, and can be hung by the belt under its own weight. If the belt slips too easily (this is your only overload safety), you can use a tensioning bolt to tension the motor drive belt. With the belts indexed to the lathe's head sheaves, the rest of the system should lay out in an obvious fashion. The only downside is you'll need a slightly wider bench.
 
Hey, John, thanks for the tips! I see what you mean now and like the idea of pivoting the motor. I looked up the old documents of how this countershaft was used and it seems pretty clear for now. I’m planning to have this on my bench against the wall, so I’ll want to find a mount that’s not hanging off the back of the bench like what I saw as examples.

To Craig’s question earlier about the back gears, I finally understand. I found a copy of the old manual and read through that on the ferry to work this morning, and have a bit better of an understanding. I’ll have to look in the headstock more clearly tomorrow. I’m not 100% sure I’m reading the manual correctly on how to engage or disengage the planetary gears. It referenced a screw part number that I can’t find in the exploded diagram but I’m sure it’ll be a bit clearer once I can fiddle with it. I figured I should probably take everything mostly apart anyway to clean it up. I’ll take some pictures tomorrow or this weekend as I investigate.

Thanks all,

David
 
Hi All,

In the midst of completing school and generally setting up shop, I've made a bit of progress in disassembling the lathe for cleanup. So far, I've completed the tailstock, carriage assembly and the bed and lead screw. This has been a very educational process, as I've never taken apart a lathe before. I've always enjoyed taking things apart and really seeing how everything is engineered, and this has allowed me to get familiar with mine. Anyhow, I'm also surprised at the number of missing or wrong parts I have. Nothing crazy critical as far as I can tell, and a lot of it is just different hardware. I'm guessing my buddy or a prior owner used what they had available. Aside from the handles, everything seems readily available. I'll tackle the handles later, as I have enough to get by to start. By the way (@WCraig) , I've been referencing the manual that I got from Vintage Machinery here: http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=26273.

So, now I'm at the headstock and I wanted to ask about removing the spindle. It looks like I need to get myself a spanner that I don't have, but I'm not sure how best to hold the spindle for removal of the nut on the back of the headstock. Does anyone have any tips? Also, I noticed a bit of play as I was removing the headstock. I'm hopeful that the vee way and the dowel will properly align it when I reassemble and tighten it to the bed, but I've never had to realign a headstock (or check alignment) to the bed. Can someone point me to some good directions on this? I'm aware of leveling and tailstock alignment procedures, but not this. Anyway, I've only taken a couple of pictures of my progress, mostly just dug in with simple green, scotch brite, and I've been oiling everything upon cleaning with Vectra No. 2. The ways cleaned up nicely with a bit of WD-40. Oh, and bonus, I took the motor to work today to have the electricians I work with take a look, and they hooked me up with the missing fitting on the motor, a quick correction to the wiring, and a new switch with a longer cord to mount to the front of the bench! I'll give it a quick dusting, but it runs nice and smooth, and now safely wired.

Thanks,

David
 

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