Scroll and guide busted; need confirmation on part numbers

ARC-170

Jeff L.
H-M Lifetime Diamond Member
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Oct 17, 2018
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The scroll (L6-38) and the guide (9-13) on a lathe I bought are both broken. I looked on Ebay and found a scroll that looks exactly like mine, but the part number is 10D-38. Searching for L6-38 yielded no results. Are these interchangeable? The seller claims they will fit a 10" or 12" Atlas Craftsman lathe.

BTW, how and why would these two parts break?
 
Not sure I understand what the parts are .
 
Those are the names the manual gives those parts. The guide has the slots to mount and guide the half nuts and the scroll moves them when rotated. A crash into a hard stop with the lead screw feed engaged would probably do that. AFAK, those parts are the same/interchangeable on all Atlas 10 & 12" lathes.......but wa5cab to confirm.

Best,
Kelly
 
OK now I know what you mean- yes Robert (Wa5Cab) would know those part #s
-Mark
 
That is one of the minor mysteries about the Atlas 10" and the early Craftsman 12". I tried to call Clausing this afternoon to see whether the 10D-38 or the L6-38 drawings would shed any light on the question. But they were closed for the holiday.

No one has ever come up with any parts lists earlier than the 10F except for the one on the 10E and it unfortunately doesn't have the lead screw and threading gears. Thanks to Sears Parts Direct several years ago, we do have parts lists on the 101.07360 through 101.07403 but they only hint at the answer. According to them, everything except the 07403 uses scroll 10D-38 and the 07403 uses L6-38. The parts lists for the 10F all say that it uses 10D-38. My suspicion is that when the 101.07403 came out, they had had complaints from customers about the staked-on half-nut actuating lever so the drilled and tapped a hole in the end of the shaft on the 10D-38 and called it L6-38. An unknown time later they must have decided to do the same thing on the 10F but instead of doing the logical thing and starting to use the L6-38, they added the tapped hole to the 10D-38 but failed to add an "A" to the part number. Or change the part number to 10F-38. Either one of which would have followed their system. Note that I also don't know what they did about the 10-29 Lever and the length of the square part of the shaft on the 10D-38.

Anyway, if the used 10D-38 on eBay has the hole drilled and tapped in the shaft, it should work fine. If it doesn't, drill and tap it #8-32 UNC. x 1/2" full threads. And if your old one was staked into the handle, you can use a #8 rack & panel washer and screw (AKA oval head screw).
 
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I use the names and part numbers on the parts lists I have, so anyone who knows anything about these machines can reference that and we all know what is being discussed.

Robert, thank you. Looks like I'll get the scroll and guide I found online. I sent a message to the seller, but have not heard back. BTW, who do you talk to at Clausing? I've spoken with Tom in tech support.

Merry Christmas to all and to all a good machining session in the shop!
 
Jeff,

There are still some unanswered questions about the half nut assembly. Including the lever.

When I call Clausing with a question other than about stock, I generally ask for Tom McNett or his brother Ron. When I call to order, check stock or price, I just tell the operator Old Atlas Parts.
 
I think the half nut guide is the same. What unanswered questions are you referring to?

This is the response from the seller about the scroll: "I’m almost 100% it’s same part. Diameter is 1 5/8”. The 12” commercial model refers to it as 10D-38."

Does the 12" commercial lathe use the same scroll and guide as the others? The lathe I need it for is not exactly like mine; the compound has a tapered gib and goes together a little different. Here's a picture of the pieces:

Tapered gib is at far left.
DSC00468.JPG
 
The lathe has the compound handles screwed on with a screw that has a split slot, as shown in the image. I made a tool to get it off (shown at right), but is there a tool that is used for these types of fasteners?

DSC00465.JPG DSC00466.JPG\

Also, there is some sort of pin that appears to keep the handle locked in place so it won't spin. How is this removed? It's at 6 o'clock, just under the central shaft in the image below.
DSC00467.JPG
 
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