SB 9A maintenance

mofosheee

mofosheee

Registered
Registered
Joined
Nov 13, 2013
Messages
104
Hello
I picked up a rather neglected 9A. Everything from the gears, quick change gear box and apron were filled/packed with grease and particulate (twas a mess)
Disassembled, cleaned with kerosene and reassembled. I've acquired all of the recommended oils and lubes. All good so far.
Even after looking at the lube chart I am still confused.........My question is,
what lubricant is applied externally (topically) to the dry gears and internals of the apron?
Thank you again
 

Attachments

  • lube.jpg
    lube.jpg
    556.9 KB · Views: 10
mofosheee said:
Hello
I picked up a rather neglected 9A. Everything from the gears, quick change gear box and apron were filled/packed with grease and particulate (twas a mess)
Disassembled, cleaned with kerosene and reassembled. I've acquired all of the recommended oils and lubes. All good so far.
Even after looking at the lube chart I am still confused.........My question is,
what lubricant is applied externally (topically) to the dry gears and internals of the apron?
Thank you again
Click to expand...
The internals of the apron are oiled by tubes and ports on the apron. So Oil.

There is no place to use grease.. not the cone pulley either as recommended by Illion in there book, that's wrong, mine seized up with that, I had to clean it out and use oil.

The only place I have used grease (breaks the rule above) is the gears on the end of the head. It quiets them down a lot , more so than the oil. And since it is covered it doesn't get swarf. The gear box is oil You don't want grease which will hold onto the swarf that bounces up.
 
woodchucker said:
The internals of the apron are oiled by tubes and ports on the apron. So Oil.

There is no place to use grease.. not the cone pulley either as recommended by Illion in there book, that's wrong, mine seized up with that, I had to clean it out and use oil.

The only place I have used grease (breaks the rule above) is the gears on the end of the head. It quiets them down a lot , more so than the oil. And since it is covered it doesn't get swarf. The gear box is oil You don't want grease which will hold onto the swarf that bounces up.
Click to expand...
Got it..............oil on the open gears of the gearbox. Grease on end of the head. Thanks!
 
This chart is for the 10"and up, but will give you the general idea.

Lube Chart.jpg
 
SB calls for Teflon grease in the cone pulley. It only comes into play when the back gears are used.
Not sure of their motivation for the spec or even if it is the best product for the application, but that is what SB wanted.

They also called for #2 Soap Grease on the ways of the SB mill which, in hindsight, seems like a bad idea. It's only been 60+ years since the recommendations came out.

As my friend Bob says, "any lube is better than no lube, even if it is the 'wrong' lube"
 
piper184 said:
SB calls for Teflon grease in the cone pulley. It only comes into play when the back gears are used.
Not sure of their motivation for the spec or even if it is the best product for the application, but that is what SB wanted.



As my friend Bob says, "any lube is better than no lube, even if it is the 'wrong' lube"
Click to expand...
There seem to have been different recommendations for the cone pulley, possibly for different years. My Heavy 10 is clearly stamped "oil", also recommended by the lube chart above.

I have always said "any oil is better than no oil" Sometimes grease doesn't get where it needs to be.

Interesting side note: we used to run hot black oxide in our shop, which included a dip in soluble oil for protection. Rather than pay to get rid of over 50 gallons of soluble in water, we boiled it down. It left a cake of solid grease in the bottom of the tank.
 
Don't use any grease on the cone pulley... it does not lubricate it enough. Use spindle oil.
I'm telling you, I seized it up from heat because it doesn't offer enough protection.
 
MrWhoopee said:
There seem to have been different recommendations for the cone pulley, possibly for different years. My Heavy 10 is clearly stamped "oil", also recommended by the lube chart above.

I have always said "any oil is better than no oil" Sometimes grease doesn't get where it needs to be.

Interesting side note: we used to run hot black oxide in our shop, which included a dip in soluble oil for protection. Rather than pay to get rid of over 50 gallons of soluble in water, we boiled it down. It left a cake of solid grease in the bottom of the tank.
Click to expand...
YES
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top