Rust Prevention

[mikey]

Neal, to address your question about rusting, you are dealing with flash rust because your process has removed all traces of oil and surface oxides from the parts. This is commonly seen after de-rusting and is almost guaranteed after electrolysis (which I use a lot and am a big fan of).

For an Albrecht chuck, only the spindle (leadscrew thing) and threaded area of the body must be oil-free. In fact, only the spindle threads and the threads inside the body have to be oil-free. If you wish, you can apply a coat of paste wax to any other nearby surface adjacent to the threads and not cause problems and that will stop rust for some time. Just don't get anything on the threads of the spindle.

The rest of the chuck can be oiled lightly. Apply your oil of choice to discourage the rust, then wipe it all off with a rag. Enough oil will remain on the surface to discourage further rust on the innards. Assemble the chuck and use a light coat of oil on the outside and the chuck will be fine. I use Camellia Oil on the outside and have no rust issues, even though I live a mile from the ocean.

Okay, back to the etching vs non-etching debate!

 

[dlane]

Don't think it'll help these, surprisingly the insides feel fine, they were free

Darn shame a

 

[woodchucker]

Neal, to address your question about rusting, you are dealing with flash rust because your process has removed all traces of oil and surface oxides from the parts. This is commonly seen after de-rusting and is almost guaranteed after electrolysis (which I use a lot and am a big fan of).

For an Albrecht chuck, only the spindle (leadscrew thing) and threaded area of the body must be oil-free. In fact, only the spindle threads and the threads inside the body have to be oil-free. If you wish, you can apply a coat of paste wax to any other nearby surface adjacent to the threads and not cause problems and that will stop rust for some time. Just don't get anything on the threads of the spindle.

The rest of the chuck can be oiled lightly. Apply your oil of choice to discourage the rust, then wipe it all off with a rag. Enough oil will remain on the surface to discourage further rust on the innards. Assemble the chuck and use a light coat of oil on the outside and the chuck will be fine. I use Camellia Oil on the outside and have no rust issues, even though I live a mile from the ocean.

Okay, back to the etching vs non-etching debate!

Mikey , explain why the spindle thread s don't get oil. I read your rebuild blog, but I still can't figure a reason why that remains dry.
I can't see anything slipping from that. It looks like the pin does all the work spinning the spindle , so what am I missing, why does that cause a problem.\
Enlighten me please.

 

[4GSR]

Jeff, I tend to agree with you "why no oil", it needs some type of lubrication, a little light oil in my opinion should be fine. A dab of Lubriplate 105 should do it. I have a Albrecht chuck I dis assembled years ago and cleaned up all of the rust crud, went back together with Lubriplate 105 on everything. I don't use the chuck that often, when I do it works nice! I won't tell you how I got it off the spindle of the drill pres it came off of..it involved a 15" Crescent wrench.

 

[4GSR]

Don't think it'll help these, surprisingly the insides feel fine, they were free
View attachment 234339
Darn shame a

Derrick,

I wouldn't let the outside bother you. That's just cosmetic. Be real easy to turn those areas down a little bit and re knurl to make it look nice again. But before doing that, take them apart and see what the insides look like. Their salvageable in my opinion.

 

[dlane]

Yup Ken: those were the last of the smooth operators, the rest are stiff x3.
1/8-5/8" , need a new arbor then I'll check them out

 

[Bob Korves]

Most of the parts of an Albrecht chuck are hardened. It might be difficult to turn them or to knurl them.

 

[mikey]

Mikey , explain why the spindle thread s don't get oil. I read your rebuild blog, but I still can't figure a reason why that remains dry.
I can't see anything slipping from that. It looks like the pin does all the work spinning the spindle , so what am I missing, why does that cause a problem.\
Enlighten me please.

A keyless chuck like an Albrecht is self-tightening by design. As it encounters the cutting forces during a drilling operation, the chuck gets tighter. Oil on the threads of the spindle and body defeats this ability and the drill will slip and/or spin in the chuck. Albrecht specifically says not to allow any oil in these areas for this reason.

 

[woodchucker]

I understand it is self tightening, what I can't wrap my mind around is the threads not having oil. Those threads are just pushing the jaw anvil (your exploded view on your rebuild page). So I would understand the anvil not having oil as that probably runs against the jaw guide and requires a no-slip fit. Its the threads that I can't understand not having oil, they need to be able to easily turn while self tightening. Wish I could understand. I guess I'll have to open one up to understand.. as the diagrams and description just aren't working for me.

 

[4GSR]

A keyless chuck like an Albrecht is self-tightening by design. As it encounters the cutting forces during a drilling operation, the chuck gets tighter. Oil on the threads of the spindle and body defeats this ability and the drill will slip and/or spin in the chuck. Albrecht specifically says not to allow any oil in these areas for this reason.

Interested.
I guess I have to take mine apart and de-oil it. Argggg!