Ridge Reaming Question

racecar builder

racecar builder

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hmer's

6 pistons have to come out the top.

the plan is to soak ridges with carb cleaner and

scrape them with a hard plastic scraper.

any other ideas?

looks like it's mostly carbon.

bye
 
If it's really a normal ridge, it's not just carbon and you will need a ridge reamer. You can try to clean it with B-12 or similar, and if it's not a wear ridge, then fine. I'd hit it with some Scotch-Brite and B-12 first and see.
 
I agree, if not carbon build up you will need to remove the ridge. No matter how you take the pistons out, top or bottom, the ridge will need to be removed to put them back in as assembly is from the top.

"Billy G"
 
If you don't remove the ridge, you risk breaking the top ring on the new build, or crushing the land between the first and second ring which can pinch that ring and prevent it from sealing.
 
Mr Gruby & tony

let me get caught up, policing up the mess and

turn engine back over.

then i'll test a little section of 'ridge'.

piston tops are sooty looking, that's

sort of a clue, and i believe cylinder head chambers.

thanks
 
Billy G & tony

checked the ridge, it's at least a matchbook

thickness and maybe then some.

in plain words, you can feel it.

so it's best to get it out of there.

later
 
You have to remove it. If you are going to, and you probably should, get the block properly bored by a engine shop, they will take care of the final removal when the bore and hone, but you still need to remove it so get the pistons out. Around here, Auto Zone rents tools like ridge reamers pretty cheap, so that's the route I'd take (if I didn't already own one). I used to build engines, so I have most all the special tools.
 
RC,
Ya gotta clean that ridge before you re-assemble. You need to measure bore taper and Out of round and that ridge will mess up your results. The results of that will be sloppy cylinders and poor combustion pressure control. If you decide to use ceramic or perfect circle type of rings the pistons will never fit without removal of the ridge too. If re-using the pistons and adding new rings I would go to the wide side of the spec on ring gap because a loose motor makes more power than a tight one too. Any plans for blueprint and machine work yet? Boring, decking, boiling. new freeze plugs and a coat of paint is pretty cheap. I alway allow as a budget target. a minimum of 100 a hole for blockk machiing. It's a high figure, but allows you to go to the best oversize and gets the block and crank all squared away. Oh and dont forget a new set of cam brgs in that budget too. If your gonna build Horses, ya gotta have a good base platform to deliver it to the wheels. Hope this isn't redundant or a reminder of the obvious. Not tryin to be a know it all for sure.
Bob
 
bob

last engine i had done, the machine work was

all done at Dick Landy's.

this is when his kid was hanging around learning the business.

his name was Robert, if you call today you probably get him.

yep, know the drill.

right now this engine is getting oiled up and put away.

note: for Ford Y Block you take the pistons Egge Machine has,

you have to move up to Windsor to get the normal choice of parts.

byb
 
Tony

you're talking to somebody that had a traumatic experience

with a ridge reamer when i was in my teens.

i think it ended up cutting too much out.

then it bucked while i was using it,

one of the 3 handled ones.

so i'm a little gunshy of those things.

it's either knock off carbon and they come out or

off to the machine shop.

bob
 
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