Resusitating Some Chinese Iron

Baithog, I'm feeling generous, if you'd like, pm me with info and I'll send you one of my sandvik carbide blanks
 
That is pretty darned generous, but I have an Anderson tube handle. Like you, I am finding it addictive. It's hard to find a stopping place. The real question is whether I will still find it addictive after a few weeks.

The scraper does cut, unlike my file attempt. I am not overly happy with the quality of the edge, but that will improve with more time at the bench stone. I also need to pay better attention to keeping the blade parallel to the part. Allowing the scraper to rotate causes it to cut away from the center of the blade. I am going to steal some time later this morning to turn the wheel adapter for my slow speed motor. I need a way to sharpen carbide anyway. Right now it is time to shut down. The weather radio is complaining that we have severe T-storms on the way. Glad we won't get the snow storm, but the rash of tornadoes this year is aggravating.
 
Your blue is way way brighter than mine, I had to figure out a quick in town method to show contrast that I thought I'd share, I bought a tube of pale yellow oil paint from the fine art section, and a small tub of Vaseline, equal parts mixed thoroughly, spread it on the part and rub it in and rub it pretty much all the way off just short of using spirits to actually clean it off, do your rub. Not to hijack but here's the result.
I'm using permatex Prussian blue, really thin on the plate, and my work piece was surface ground prior to scraping so it's already flat, even with the current bearing the part is stuck to the plate.
20160122_195436.jpg
 
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Hi Larry,
it feels good to scrape!
before they used diamond to sharpen carbide, green grinding wheels were used.
i have a green grinding wheel on one side of my bench grinder, it was a generous gift to me from member middle.road.
it's 100 grit and works very well for rough sharpening or putting radii onto scraper blades .
the sandvik blades don't have much of a radius on them, so i use the green wheel to reduce the radius, then rough sharpen.
i'll then further sharpen on the home brew diamond sharpener to satisfaction.
the green wheel does shed some grit- be prepared, but if you don't lean too hard you can get a lot of life from a greenie:D
 
I just bought a 120gr norton gemini green, but haven't been able to use it just yet, how long does it take for the actual sharpening after you have roughed it out on the green, is it minutes or is it dedication lol, I bought a 500gr and 1200gr diamond lapping disks for my finish sharpening, just curious as to what to expect, a few swipes and it ready to go or what
 
I'll have to agree that my sharpening leaves something to be desired. The blade cuts but not very well. I will have to take out some time to mess with sharpening. I had wanted to avoid making a jig for the HSS blade to get the angles clean, but I may have to.

Chevydyl, thanks for the background formula. I am using canode for spotting, which is water soluble. I'm not sure it would like laying on a vaseline. A youtube video mentions applying an orange background before spotting. He took it from what looked like a past wax style can, but I haven't been able to find it for sale.

This is where I left off last night.
Plane4.jpg
 
looking good Larry!
keep at it you'll start to see more contact on the nose and heel.
they are usually relieved a bit on the ends for ease of use.
 
chevydyl said:
I just bought a 120gr norton gemini green, but haven't been able to use it just yet, how long does it take for the actual sharpening after you have roughed it out on the green, is it minutes or is it dedication lol, I bought a 500gr and 1200gr diamond lapping disks for my finish sharpening, just curious as to what to expect, a few swipes and it ready to go or what
Click to expand...

Hey chevydvl,
actual sharpening after roughing for me is on the order of minutes.
i stop at 600 grit, others may go much finer- but i think the real advantage stops any finer than 600.
not to discourage, run what you have and be your own judge.
once you have secured the relief angle, sharpening can be very simple.
 
That's looking good man.

Canode is water soluble, but it's made with vegetable oil or some other thing (es dyjack told me this) he said it would have no problem playing with the permatex, although I ordered a sample tub of titanium dioxide since he was worried about air mail shipping the canode through the post office. (Powder vs liquid) I dont think mixing them would be an issue, and when I say rub off I mean I literally rubbed the yellow paint pretty well all the way off and what is left behind is more of a tint rather than a film or layer, your blue looks really good compared to the permatex, it's super thin on my plate so I wasn't getting false readings, plus being the part is already precision flat if I used a thicker film I'd never get the part unstuck from the plate lol, but after the rub I'm having to turn my head all around sidewards to even see the blue tint.
 
You might want to check with artco [ http://www.artcotools.com/die-spotting-ink.html ]. They usually ship UPS or Fedex, but sent mine flat rate because it was cheaper . They even refunded part of my shipping. Flat rate to Alaska is supposed to be the same as down here. Just for jollies I looked up the Canode MSDS. The blue is Phthalocyanine blue pigment, Titanium oxide pigment, and Polyoxyethylene Sorbotan Mono Oleate emulsifier (Polysorbate 80). You have probably seen polysorbate on food package ingredient lists. It is available on ebay and probably locally from a soap making materials store. So if you get bored waiting for the sun to come up, you could get some polysorbate and mix your own water soluble inks. I really like the water cleanup, having had my spill incident.
 
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