Refrigerant 410a being phased out. (Mini split heat pumps)

MikeInOr

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About 10 years ago I installed a Fujitsu mini-split heat pump and have been extremely happy with it. Last year during heating season it threw a code. Power cycling the breaker cleared the code. This winter it has thrown a code twice already. Tons of research came up with "10 blinks = low on refrigerant". The HVAC guys around here are hacks and from what I can tell they have had no formal HVAC training. So off I go to buy some R410a without a proper certificate.

Guess what... R410a is being phased out! R-32 and R-454B refrigerants are the purposed replacements. My understanding is that both are supposed to operate at lower pressures like good ole R22. And they are both said to be more efficient than R410a.

Anyway the best price I could find on R410a online is $150 for 2lbs or $200 for 5lbs. A quick CL/facebook search shows a dealer retiring and going out of business selling 25lb factory sealed tanks for $250 or 10 for $200 each. It was a 5 hour round trip and my favorite building supply outlet that I planned on visiting on the way is out of business. I also picked up an old but working refrigerant scale for $40.

From what I can find online the proper procedure is to recover all the refrigerant from the system, weigh it, then refill the system with the original 410a plus extra new 410a to bring it up to the proper calculated needed refrigerant weight. Evidently the only HVAC techs that actually do this are the ones charging by the hour. For the most part the standard procedure is to add a little 410a and bring the pressure up to 117 - 120psi on the low pressure line then see if the error code stops recurring. ...a job for tomorrow. I am thinking I will have to heat the great room then change to cool mode so I can measure the pressure in cool mode? Or do I?

I installed my Fujitsu with 15' of copper tubing which was the max length of copper tubing that can be used with the initial pre-charge of the compressor unit without having to add any additional refrigerant. So I am thinking I have been on the edge since the initial install. Maybe another .2 lbs will improve the efficiency of my Fujitsu which is supposed to be 29 seer? Everything I have read says it is better to have too little refrigerant than too much so I am thinking 1/5 lb is a good start.

What am I going to do with all the extra R410a? Well, I have a second 3 head Mitsubishi mini split to maintain AND I have seen current model Mitsubishi mini-splits that have been uninstalled for very cheap on CL/FB... which I hope to put in my shop some day. So far I have installed my 2 mini-splits and 2 more for 2 different friends. I am feeling pretty confident with the process.

Interesting: The single 1 ton Dalkin minisplit model I found that uses the new (more efficient R-32) has an eer of 10.6 while my 12 year old Fujitsu has am eer of 15.2... hmmm....


R-410A is a member of the hydrofluorocarbon (HFC) class of refrigerants and is composed of equal parts R-32 and R-125. Its chemical formula is CH₂F₂ + CHF₂CF₃.

If the "new" R32 is more efficient (at moving heat I assume) than R410a why didn't they just use R32 instead of 50% R32 + 50% R125 = R410a?
 
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I have two 5 ton R410A AC units in my current house, when we moved into this house 6 years ago one unit was just blowing hot air in the middle of the summer. I checked the low and high side pressures and they were quite low. Findings an AC person to just come and look at it was $250, and his diagnosis was air in the line, pulled out all the freon, purged the line with nitrogen and then pulled a vacuum and said it was all good. All said in done it was a $1200 bill, and I really doubted their competency. They kept on having to call the boss for directions on what to do.

Well by the end of summer, the freon had leaked out, tried to do a UV dye test and never found the leak. I invested in a Testo 557 to do the superheat and subcooling calculations, as I found my standard gauges to not be very helpful w/o the measuring the temperatures. I also put in a charge of UV Refrigerant Leak Sealer which seems to have been holding. About every other year I have to add 1/2-1lb of freon. With 410A you should add very little at a time and allow the compressor to run for ~5 minutes to stabilize and then recheck the readings. I also use a liquid Low Side Refrigerant Charging Adapter for charging 410A.

My previous house had two 5 ton R22 AC units and one would require to be topped off a bit every 2-3 years, the other one developed a pin hole leak where two copper lines were rubbing. This is when they were phasing out R22, the AC people wanted thousands of dollars to repair it and replace the R22 freon, said it was probably better to replace the system starting at 7K. Like you I was able to source a new 25lb tank of R22 ($150) and an industrial AC tech friend came on the weekend, he silver soldered the in hole, pulled a vacuum and recharged the system. He was off duty and charged me $75 for 1 hour of time, I gave time $100. I figure these days, most repairman are typically amatures with limited experience, short of replacing the whole system, you are better off doing it yourself. There are supposedly replacement freon mixtures for R22 (MO99) and R410A (RS-53 R470A), but expensive to purge and replace all the system charge. There are probably slightly different pressure settings.

If you have just loss a little freon, all you may need to do is top off your system, as opposed to pulling it all out and recharging. You can get a basic computerized digital manifold for not to much. I bought my Testo from Zoro with one of their 20% off coupons that they send routinely. Just find it much easier to get accurate superheat and subcooling numbers specified for my AC unit, the pressures by themselves were not reliably accurate.

 
I was quite surprised that our new refrigerator is charged with butane; surem they have another name/number for it, but that is what it is, at least it is cheap!
 
We are using R290 at work now. It is propane. It doesn't have any smell to it like regular LP.
Joe
 
I ended up adding 5 oz of R410a and so far I have had no more faults, but it is kind of early to say the problem is fixed. The mini-split is putting out warmer air in the middle of this cold spell than I ever recall it putting out since new.
 
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