Recommendations on metal type for tractor loader pins.

[D.sebens]

I need to address the slop on my loader. What steel should be used for the pins. This is my home use power wheel barrow essentially. Sometimes I work it hard but it doesn’t work often. I might have to increase the pin diameter, I don’t know how egg shape the holes are. The top cylinders are a weird design and I can cut out the middle of the pin section and replace.(see picture). Sorry I don’t have a good picture of it, it’s basically plate steel bent in to a c shape with a bushing welded between the ends. What metal would be recommended for that?

 

[mmcmdl]

I used some kind of stainless on my Kubota bucket . I machined grease grooves in them and did away with the pins and went with shaft collars .

 

[D.sebens]

I used some kind of stainless on my Kubota bucket . I machined grease grooves in them and did away with the pins and went with shaft collars .

Shaft collars? Wouldn’t you still need pins? Or do you mean you went from actual pins to rod with shaft collars? My pins are straight rod with a hole in the center that a bolt goes through to lock it.

 

[mmcmdl]

Or do you mean you went from actual pins to rod with shaft collars?

I used stainless shafts and put lock collars on each end . The shafts can pivot .

 

[homebrewed]

I used stainless shafts and put lock collars on each end . The shafts can pivot .

That approach seems a little unhandy if you frequently change out attachments. Thinking about 3-point hitches for instance.

In the last week I've swapped out 3 different attachments on my tractor -- a mowing deck, a sub-soiler and a tiller. The pin/snap ring combination doesn't need a tool to remove, just a working hand. I have never removed the front loader so that would be OK for shaft collars.

My tractor is a JD 770, small but fine for our needs.

 

[mmcmdl]

That approach seems a little unhandy if you frequently change out attachments.

These are just on the loader .

 

[deakin]

when i built my mini excavator i did some research and ended up using 1045

 

[machPete99]

4140-PH? Might need to take in consideration what the bushings are made from and which you would prefer to replace...

 

[mmcmdl]

I thought it would be easier to replace the pins when worn instead of having to ream out the bushings .

 

[Jake M]

I need to address the slop on my loader. What steel should be used for the pins. This is my home use power wheel barrow essentially. Sometimes I work it hard but it doesn’t work often. I might have to increase the pin diameter, I don’t know how egg shape the holes are. The top cylinders are a weird design and I can cut out the middle of the pin section and replace.(see picture). Sorry I don’t have a good picture of it, it’s basically plate steel bent in to a c shape with a bushing welded between the ends. What metal would be recommended for that?

What are your intentions about truing up the bores? If you can hit an available dimension, scrap cylinder rod from your local hydraulic shop is awesome. Or the new variety is "induction hardened chrome shafting". 1040/1045/1050 are come common numbers for entry level (way overkill here), all plenty good for what you're doing. The plating makes magic in a well fit and well greased bore, (If you're doing grease grooves, they go in the bore, not on the pin) and the case hardening with a soft chewy center makes it tough as nails if you happen to bump something a little bit, if\when you decide to "bucket loader" one day instead of "wheelbarrowing" And with that use case, your great, great, great grand kids will probably be asking the same questions you are when the next replacement comes due.

Short of that, as long as the gaps aren't "that" large, it's a shear load. It's gotta be a little tougher than rolled up newspaper. But not much. I's deceptively un-demanding of the steel in the pin where strength is concerned. Wear on a mild or mid carbon steel will be higher than some other options. But if it's low use?... Replacements are cheap and easy.