Rebuilding the head on a mill

[melsdad]

I have tried searches and had no luck. I am looking for a recommendation of were to have the head on my mill rebuilt. I would like to have all the bearings replaced and the power feed fixed. and just have a general go over the whole thing. Preferably I would like to find a place within reasonable driving distance from the Pittsburgh, PA area. I'm sure shipping would be a killer. This may be something I may be able to do myself, but have never worked with any precision bearings in a spindle before.

 

[Don B]

What type of mill is it? You'd save you self quit a bit if you where to do it yourself I think, depending on what type of mill it is you'd probably only need to pay to have the bottom bearing pressed of and on, I'm sure if you post the make someone here has had one apart and could advise you if this is something you should try.)

 

[Andre]

As long as you feel comfortable taking apart and putting it back together, you can do it yourself. Bearing replacements are a lot easier than it sounds. Just make sure everything is clean, don't force anything, and you will be alright.

 

[melsdad]

Thanks for the encouraging words fellas.

The machine is a Kent KTM 380 made in 1980.

 

[Don B]

Thanks for the encouraging words fellas.

The machine is a Kent KTM 380 made in 1980.

Is this the right manual?

Operation

If so I'll have a look at it on the computer after and see what you'd be in for, I can't view pdf's very well on my tablet.

 

[melsdad]

Is this the right manual?

Operation

If so I'll have a look at it on the computer after and see what you'd be in for, I can't view pdf's very well on my tablet.

Yep, that is the one. I can't seem to find much more info. on it though.

 

[JimDawson]

I'm afraid that I am going to have disagree with the others here. I would rebuild the head myself, except for the spindle. For the spindle I found that most of the cost is in the bearings, there is not much labor involved. I have a 2J2 type head, and it cost $900 to get the spindle done, including the 5 bearing upgrade, and regrinding the taper. The labor was only about $175 out of that. The spindle comes back with the preload set and run in, all you have to do is stick it back in the hole. Some things I let the pros do, and you have somebody to complain to if it isn't right. http://www.machinerebuilderscnc.com/contact.aspx These guys are in your area.

You can go through and replace all of the other bearing in the drive system for about $60. It is not a difficult job. As far as the power feed goes, what part is not working? Won't stay engaged or doesn't work if it is engaged? There are a lot of parts in there, but it's not that complicated.

 

[melsdad]

Jim, Thank you for the link!!! That is real close to me!!

as far as the power feed goes. I can get it to engage and disengage and the feed selector seems to work. But the quill does not move.

 

[JimDawson]

In that case it may be in neutral. The little knurled knob sticking out of the handwheel flange is forward and reverse. Push or pull. See page 15 of the manual. I'll bet this fixes it. Sometimes they are a bit stiff.

EDIT: If the knurled knob is missing, screw a screw in the end of the shaft. Bridgeport was a 8-32, but your machine could be metric so something around a M4x1.75 might be correct.

 

[melsdad]

In that case it may be in neutral. The little knurled knob sticking out of the handwheel flange is forward and reverse. Push or pull. See page 15 of the manual. I'll bet this fixes it. Sometimes they are a bit stiff.

EDIT: If the knurled knob is missing, screw a screw in the end of the shaft. Bridgeport was a 8-32, but your machine could be metric so something around a M4x1.75 might be correct.

I'll try messing with it again to refresh myself with it. IIRC the rod would engage both in and out but the quill did not move.