Reamers

[woodchucker]

Using a tapered reamer it a lot more hassle, and slower.

Did you mean tapered reamer?
In my limited knowledge, you really can't avoid a tapered reamer unless you use a tapered drill bit. After rebuilding the SB 9, I started to appreciate tapered pins over straight pins. They lock in there really nicely. So I bought a set on ebay used. Of random sizes hoping to wind up with what I wanted. I did, and then some.
I agree that they are a hassle to use. The hole size is tough. I try to drill 3 holes, a small pilot for the smallest size, and then I try to go a little larger for the mid section, and larger still for the largest section, then I try to blend them together using the tapered reamer. Mostly I succeed. Sometimes I have run into issues that I have yet to figure out what happened, what I did wrong. Those times I hope that the next size taper pin will cover up the Fup. But usually we are dealing with limited sizes to use based no the part size.

 

[Bob Korves]

Did you mean tapered reamer?

Should have read "adjustable reamer". Edited... Thanks, Jeff.

In my limited knowledge, you really can't avoid a tapered reamer unless you use a tapered drill bit.

Machine reamers cut almost entirely on the beveled end flutes, and have a very slight lead in. Rose reamers cut on the ends only, and are actually back tapered for clearance. Hand reamers have a long lead in. Adjustable reamers also have a lead in. Those are all for straight shafts and pins, and the holes should not end up tapered.

Taper pins are a whole different subject. They are very useful, and I go that direction whenever possible for attaching handles, etc. Amazingly, taper pin reamers are a dime a dozen around here, and I have picked up quite a few nice ones (50+ ?) almost for free. I think it is because almost no one knows what they are for any more... I also have a lot of pin material. There are no specific sizes to taper pins. The taper is constant from tiny to big, over length stock is purchased, and the desired size is cut out of the stock at the correct diameters to fit the hole, with some extra to dress off after installation.

 

[woodchucker]

Should have read "adjustable reamer". Edited... Thanks, Jeff.


Machine reamers cut almost entirely on the beveled end flutes, and have a very slight lead in. Rose reamers cut on the ends only, and are actually back tapered for clearance. Hand reamers have a long lead in. Adjustable reamers also have a lead in. Those are all for straight shafts and pins, and the holes should not end up tapered.

Taper pins are a whole different subject. They are very useful, and I go that direction whenever possible for attaching handles, etc. Amazingly, taper pin reamers are a dime a dozen around here, and I have picked up quite a few nice ones (50+ ?) almost for free. I think it is because almost no one knows what they are for any more... I also have a lot of pin material. There are no specific sizes to taper pins. The taper is constant from tiny to big, over length stock is purchased, and the desired size is cut out of the stock at the correct diameters to fit the hole, with some extra to dress off after installation.

I didn't know that. I purchased different sizes 1,2, maybe a 4 from mcmaster.

 

[Silverbullet]

Lots of different things are a challenge when reaming. I have an old set of adjustable reamers you need to adjust them with Mic check on each set of blades most have six blades. I've done some fair work with them . Tapered reamers are another cup of tea. Those you need to watch your depths. Taper pins work much better then many other ways of locking handles and gears on shafts. We've lost the art of taper pin use. But done right it will never wear out or fall out .
Adjustable straight reamers are about the best to own ,with an Allen head in the bottom the cutters will cut larger or smaller. But you have to set them and Ck on scrap stock. Cutting with coolant or with out will change the size too.

 

[Bob Korves]

I didn't know that. I purchased different sizes 1,2, maybe a 4 from mcmaster.

People sell taper pin material in stock lengths, and give numbers to them, but even the stock is merely an arbitrary slice of the continuum. There does not seem to be any standard for stock lengths, and the size you need can be in between sizes sold by one company. There is usually enough overlap to get one to work, but with longer pins, you may need to go to a different seller to get stock that will have your pin within it. The reamers come in standard sizes, starting at 7/0, which is .0497 to .0666" O.D., to #10, which is . 5799 to .7166" O.D. That is a huge range. I might have all the sizes, maybe not a # 10, and have them in mixed straight flute, spiral flute, and helical flute styles. Straight flutes do not work well with keyways and other interrupted cuts.
http://www.victornet.com/subdepartments/Taper-Pin-Reamers/2548.html

 

[Bob Korves]

Lots of different things are a challenge when reeking. I have an old set of adjustable reamers you need to adjust them with Mic check on each set of blades most have six blades. I've done some fair work with them . Tapered reamers are another cup of tea. Those you need to watch your depths. Taper pins work much better then many other ways of locking handles and gears on shafts. We've lost the art of taper pin use. But done right it will never wear out or fall out .
Adjustable straight reamers are about the best to own ,with an Allen head in the bottom the cutters will cut larger or smaller. But you have to set them and Ck on scrap stock. Cutting with coolant or with out will change the size too.

The Allen head is not really meant for using them as an adjustable reamer, it is meant to be able to re-grind the reamer to the standard size again.

 

[uncle harry]

The other issue is that you will almost certainly need a through hole to use an adjustable reamer.

There are reamers that expand at the outer end using a threaded taper plug which can be used in blind holes. In the majority of cases a through hole is desired as Bob has stated.

 

[Silverbullet]

People sell taper pin material in stock lengths, and give numbers to them, but even the stock is merely an arbitrary slice of the continuum. There does not seem to be any standard for stock lengths, and the size you need can be in between sizes sold by one company. There is usually enough overlap to get one to work, but with longer pins, you may need to go to a different seller to get stock that will have your pin within it. The reamers come in standard sizes, starting at 7/0, which is .0497 to .0666" O.D., to #10, which is . 5799 to .7166" O.D. That is a huge range. I might have all the sizes, maybe not a # 10, and have them in mixed straight flute, spiral flute, and helical flute styles. Straight flutes do not work well with keyways and other interrupted cuts.
http://www.victornet.com/subdepartments/Taper-Pin-Reamers/2548.html

Taper pins are still available sold in one size range. They use to sell assortment in boxes but haven't seen them around anymore. The end adjustable reamers may be ment for sharpening but they are adjustable to cut also. At least the ones we used were used that way with no ill affects. The big problem with reamer use is most don't know never turn one backwards in the process.