Quill R8 Key

I did the same on my Induma 1 S, replaced it once and sheared it off soon after. On that machine, the spindle has to be disassembled to replace the screw.
 
Yes, the taper will drive a 3" face mill. The key simply prevents the collet from spinning while tightening. Once damaged, it can also prevent removing the collet.
Yes, that is what started this misadventure, I will try it out.
 
I did the same on my Induma 1 S, replaced it once and sheared it off soon after. On that machine, the spindle has to be disassembled to replace the screw.
Wow, you have to pull the spindle.... On the 940 you have to pull the plate on the bottom of the spindle, not difficult. What did you replace it with?
 
Not that anyone here will find this surprising; but, You guys were correct, the taper is all I need. Thanks for the advise, and I hope someone else might find this misadventure helpful down the road.
 
Wow, you have to pull the spindle.... On the 940 you have to pull the plate on the bottom of the spindle, not difficult. What did you replace it with?
I replaced it with a factory new part, looked like a screw with a round point. Like I said, it sheared off not long after and was not replaced, and worked just fine without it, the only downside is that it would be more difficylt when using collets to tighten them, but since I used end mill holders exclusively, this was not an issue.
 
I replaced it with a factory new part, looked like a screw with a round point. Like I said, it sheared off not long after and was not replaced, and worked just fine without it, the only downside is that it would be more difficylt when using collets to tighten them, but since I used end mill holders exclusively, this was not an issue.
I actually found some set screws with extended ends from McMaster Carr with a 45H hardness the tip of the screw extends about a MM past the threads at roughly the minor thread diameter, it works well. 20 bucks for 100 of them.
 
The original and replacement screws from Induma did not appear to be heat treated.
 
The original and replacement screws from Induma did not appear to be heat treated.
They are neither heat treated nor a proper tip if it is the same as mine. The R8 tools I have are all hardened steel and the quill should be the same, at the least it files like it is hard so the screw acting as the key being a 45H should not be an issue. I have run mine with the screw for about 6 hours and visual inspection showed no issues; and since the taper holds it fairly well it should not be an issue.

 
Hi @verbotenwhisky
Wow, you have to pull the spindle.... On the 940 you have to pull the plate on the bottom of the spindle, not difficult. What did you replace it with?
I think I mentioned that I did this on my 940M. I replaced it with a standard set screw that I had in stock. And yes, it was necessarily to have it. Without it the spindle turns freely from the quill and I could not remove tools from a PM chuck. I think one should use a fairly soft set screw metal so that it sheers when there is a major problem. It is a safety factor for the 940M.

Dave L.
 
Curious what forces are damaging the screw if the R8 taper is providing as robust of a seating as stated? Aggressive draw bar tightening with an impact before the taper has an opportunity to seat perhaps? Obviously some force is acting upon it causing the damage..
 
Back
Top