Quick change tapper

R.G.

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I had a discussion with a friend who is much more mechanically inclined than I am; he's lived with and used his lathe and mill for many years. He makes and sells custom hardware for some optical stuff.

He was whining about how long it takes him to change taps on a widget he makes. He taps in a small semi-disposable drill press bought used for the purpose and set up for tapping by releasing the return spring and belt, then inserting a handle on the spindle shaft. He has to tap three or four different sizes per widget, so tap changes are a pain. He's tried using the taps directly in the chuck jaws, but apparently something about the hardened and polished tap will not give enough purchase on the chuck jaws to prevent the tap from spinning in the chuck reliably. Besides, you have to use a key on the chuck. That's not quick change.

After some discussion, we came to:

You can make a quick-change setup for taps by not trying to quick-change the taps. Tap wrench/handles are quite cheap these days. He sells a DIY kit which has one in it that costs him under $3 each. At that price, you can consider a tap handle to be part of the tap.

Once you make that decision, you can keep a tap handle per tap size, and modify it to be quick-change in the chuck. This could take the form of
- using a lathe, rotary table, or index block to file/grind the head of the handle to either hex or semi-trianglular to make it a quick fit in the chuck, with only hand tighening needed
- as above, but file/grind to a standard hex head size; then put a socket into the chuck and a neodymium magnet in it (or on the tap handle) to hold it in the socket; this is true quick change
- most tap handles have a central hole in the top of the handle, perhaps for guiding. Get an appropriate cheese-steel bolt with a maybe 7/16" head, chuck up the head in the lathe and turn the bolt body down to a press fit for the hole in the lathe head. Epoxied magnet/etc. makes this a true quick change in a socket held in the drill chuck.
- We thought about turning down hex stock, but cheese-steel bolts are cheaper and more available.
 
I myself would get a assortment of long nuts that would fit over the end of the tap after turning out the threads or hex stock, put setscrew to hold tap on each size needed. then put socket on tapping unit (pillar post) to fit hex. Thats what we had in most shops I worked in and it was the best setup for quick change you can get. It would also work in lathe or in the field.;)
Just my 2 cents worth which aint worth much :drool:
 
You may find that clock keys can be turned into quick change tap drivers. Check this link to see what I mean. Be aware that the sizes given are made to a loose fit on the arbor that they are sized for.

http://www.clock-keys.com/pdf/wholecatalog/Part-1.pdf

You will need to scroll down to page # 58 to find the keys.


Joe
 
Take a look at the Starrett on line catalog page 337. They make a tap handle up to 13' in length.
I have one of these handles that I plan on using in a tapping stand. The catalog # is 93F
http://www.starrett.com/
 
That would be good, except it only goes down to 1/4" taps. Most of my tapping is smaller than that, usually #8 - #10.

Rats. So close.
 
An Irwin/Hanson TR-1 tap wrench handles from 0 to 1/4" taps. I use them as a part of a specialized tool that I make. For my purposes I need to add a 5" extension. Here are a couple of pictures showing how I add the extension. Maybe you could use something like this as there is no limit to how long you can make it. While there may be a small amount of run-out it is not enough to cause any problem and the connection between the tap and the tap wrench is not high precision either.

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Joe

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Ah. Nice! I'll throw that into the mix.

As I understand it, the brass split bushing goes over the portion just below the expanded head of the tap wrench. It is a nice sidestep of an issue with one other scheme I thought of.

I actually thought about and discarded as impractical (for me... :) ) the idea of drill/tap/reaming the centering hole/divot on the top of a tap handle and either press-fitting a shaft or threading one in. But files skate over the tops of my two tap handles; they're hardened.

Maybe I could get some Chinese cheese-steel tap handles and drilltapreamthread.
 
As another possible scheme (I differentiate between schemes and plans; it's a scheme if you don't know exactly how to do it but it looks like it oughta work... :) )

It occurred to me that it's the taps that are disposable, and the object that I want to quick-change. The problem is that they're not easy to quick change, as they have issues with high torque and needing some compliance, but not much.

I thought about the possibility of making a fixture which centers up a tap shaft inside a steel tube, which is then poured full of catalyzed urethane rubber (http://www.eagerplastics.com/cat.htm ). Suitably hard and high strength rubber would make a nice minor compliance layer, while still centering the tap in side the tube. The "tube" could easily enough be a center drilled/bored 7/16" bolt.

Still thinking.
 
The TR I use is pretty hard but cuts easily with carbide tool bit. I remove the tee handle and fill the hole with a piece of mild steel then reduce the OD to a press fit into a 11/32" hole for about 1/2". The extension is drilled and reamed to 11/32. I always drill through the mild steel plug for the roll pin. Less chance of breaking the drill that way. There is nothing magic about the 11/32 dimension its just that I had a nice, sharp, chucking reamer in that size so I adapted.

BTW: The Irwin TR has two sets of jaws. The smaller ones are deeper inside and handle 0 thru #6 while the outer set handles #8 thru 1/4".

Joe
 
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