[How do I?] Question on Procunier Tapping Heads....

HMF

HMF

Site Founder
Administrator
Joined
Sep 22, 2010
Messages
7,223
I want to install a tapping head on one of my two bench size drill presses. I have an Enco 16 speed from 35 years ago (taiwan) and a South Bend (usa).
I have two so I can leave one set up to tap or some other job I need (like mortising wood parts).
But I don't know anything. I see there are series 1, 2, 3, 4. No idea what the difference is, which one gives me the most vertical space, whether I need collets etc.
I am going to buy used, on CL like the examples below. What do I look for to determine if they are usable and/or complete?

What should I buy? What do I look for? What else do I need (besides taps of course).


http://greensboro.craigslist.org/tls/3479752551.html
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/bfs/3444288131.html
http://limaohio.craigslist.org/tls/3468448545.html
 
Basically, Nelson, the size of taps you want to drive will be the main determining factor. In your clock work, very small taps would be used, and very few jobs would require repeat tapping. Realistically, unless you intend on some limited production work, where you need to tap quite a few holes in identical pieces, you don't have too much of a need for a tapping head, in my opinion. I have a Tap-Matic that I've never used. And this is a small commercial shop. I power tap in the BP clone the few times I get several holes to tap.

May I ask why you believe you need a tapping head?
 
A No. 1 Procunier tapper will handle up to a 1/4" tap. (That appears to be mounted on the South Bend in the C.L. add.) A No. 2 Procunier tapper will handle up to a 1/2" tap. This would be my choice of any of them to have. BTW- I have both a No. 1 and 2 with collets. The last two listed in the CL adds are a No. 4 which will handle a fairly large tap like 1". OF course, you need a beefy drill press to use this on.

I've taken both of mine apart and modified them with different shanks and cut off the DP mounting so I can used them in the mill or drill press.
 
Tony Wells said:
Basically, Nelson, the size of taps you want to drive will be the main determining factor. In your clock work, very small taps would be used, and very few jobs would require repeat tapping. Realistically, unless you intend on some limited production work, where you need to tap quite a few holes in identical pieces, you don't have too much of a need for a tapping head, in my opinion. I have a Tap-Matic that I've never used. And this is a small commercial shop. I power tap in the BP clone the few times I get several holes to tap.

May I ask why you believe you need a tapping head?
Click to expand...


As for clock work, I am just an apprentice, but there is very little tap work in clocks that I can see. What little there is, I could do with that hand tapper I got from Enco (HF has them also).

I want to take some holes in steel and aluminum to make some custom clock testing/repair stands that I designed. There are several of them on a piece of square steel and steel plate and aluminum square bar.
The clock stands that they sell are expensive and they don't work well enough, so I designed my own. I have the metal and wanted to get a tapping head to handle the holes.

If that works, I would make some other tools for clock work instead of buying. You wouldn't believe the prices they change for clock repair machines. Go to Jules Borel and check out the Burgeon Bushing Machine (about $1200). A mainspring winder is $250. A machinist can make these things easily, probably of 1018 or aluminum scrap they have laying around.

Anyway, that is why I wanted the tapping machine.
 
4gsr said:
A No. 1 Procunier tapper will handle up to a 1/4" tap. (That appears to be mounted on the South Bend in the C.L. add.) A No. 2 Procunier tapper will handle up to a 1/2" tap. This would be my choice of any of them to have. BTW- I have both a No. 1 and 2 with collets. The last two listed in the CL adds are a No. 4 which will handle a fairly large tap like 1". OF course, you need a beefy drill press to use this on.

I've taken both of mine apart and modified them with different shanks and cut off the DP mounting so I can used them in the mill or drill press.
Click to expand...


Thanks- so the #2 would fit most of what I would do. I assume the collets hold the taps more accurately than a chuck, so that is why you use them. What kind of collets do I need to buy and are they available, or made of "unobtainium" (in which case I need to get a tapping head that includes the collets).
 
Collets are still available. Very pricy, a arm and half of a leg. Do show up on eBone from time to time.
Might be best to buy a new one (not Procunier) with the collets.
 
4gsr said:
Collets are still available. Very pricy, a arm and half of a leg. Do show up on eBone from time to time.
Might be best to buy a new one (not Procunier) with the collets.
Click to expand...

Ken,

A followup stupid question- which brand would you get new WITH the collets? (and where?)

I had a feeling collets were an issue. Might be cheaper, as you say, to just buy new.

Thanks for helping me avoid this pitfall (buying with no collets and getting stuck).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top