Question on Code & Romex Staples

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Shiseiji

Avid destroyer of many materials.
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Are the staples required to be insulated? Having a new shop built in WA state and was surprised to see un-insulated staples.

TIA
Ron
 
In my time, I never saw insulated staples on Romex. I assume the building code assumed the Man driving those staples knew when to stop hitting it. I have no clue what code calls out these days.
 
Thanks, former aircraft mechanic, I've learned I can project too much with "most safe" to "should be".

Ron
 
There are professional electricians on this forum, who will eventually likely respond. But I have seen bare wire staples on new construction around here. It might be a local thing. I've heard that Massachusetts requires insulated staples.
 
It's your shop; talk to the general contractor and tell him you want insulated staples. You'll probably get hit with an extra charge, but otherwise I imagine those un-insulated staples will gnaw at your mind forever.
 
Call your LOCAL inspector and ask them.

No need for insulation as the romex is additional layer to inside wire.

But some places may require it.

I believe it is for better holding and hot really insulation

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
pdentrem said:
Well uninsulated staples will not work with bare wire!
Click to expand...
Bare staples are allowed locally. Insulated are a much higher price. My personal stance is that any bare (exposed) wire should be in conduit. Stuff above 24 volts, anyway. Jacketed wire (communications, speakers, etc) would be like ROMEX, with a doubled insulation. Staples are to keep wire from "flapping in the breeze", they should not be so tight an extra inch cannot be pulled at the last minute.

My background is industrial, where everything is run in conduit. In home construction where wood is the structural base, ROMEX is allowed where it is concealed. I have run into "old work" where ROMEX was run on a wall surface in the distant past so is acceptable under code, but I don't like it and will bow out of a job where it was used. Leviton made, in the distant past, fittings that were surface mount. I don't think they are available these days. Personally, if cable is exposed it is run in EMT conduit where it exits the wall covering.

NFPA (Code) has a clause where only one cable (ROMEX) is allowed under a staple. This is to prevent wire from being "crimped" under the staple. It is assumed that anyone doing wiring is competent enough to not so crimp the cable. The average DIYer falls under this clause, although most are not aware of it. When I rewired my house (1976) I took a "homeowner's" test to show that I had the required competency. Any modifications done since have been done under that premise based on the code at that time. Although such modifications have not been inspected (shame on me) I have that test to fall back on should the need arise.

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A little bit of info courtesy of my insurance agent. My house has 100 amp service but with an antique breaker box. Which needed replacing. The electrician from my work and I talked about picking up a new box and doing it ourselves. I love to save a dollar. Called the insurance agent and asked if it would make a difference in the premium. He told me to get it inspected and approved by our county. Without that county inspection and sign-off approval an electrical fire could burn the place to the ground and the insurance company would not have to pay.
 
That is an interesting subject. I live in a 50 year old home that has had three prior owners. I would not be at all surprised if some of the electrical work was done without proper permits and inspections. Does that mean that if my home burns down the insurance would not pay? Personally, I don't think so - the insurance industry is heavily regulated.
 
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