Question for HVAC people

JPigg55

JPigg55

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Hey everyone, new guy on the block.
Setting up my hobby shop and decided on using a 20' shipping container to do it in. Plenty of room for my small machines and very secure (think it would take nothing short of a torch to break in with the lock I got on it) given the location near the road away from the house where I decided to put it. Also wanted to stay away from tax burden of a permanent structure and considering moving so I can pick it up and take it with me.

Anyway, insulating the ceiling and walls (2X4 frame with R-11 fiberglass and 3/4" plywood), but not the floor. Figure 160 sq ft with 8' ceiling (actually small with space lost to framing), what size, brand(s), & voltage electric heater would you recommend ???
Wanting thermostat control with forced air as well.
So any advice on voltage (110/220), BTU output, etc would be appriciated.
 
One thing to be aware of is that a shipping container like on ships are sealed tight so it would be a good idea to provide some outside air once in awhile so you can breathe if you spend a long time in there. If heat is off most of the time and only want to use it in the evening you will need a bigger heater or use a smaller heater turned on say a hour before you go in to use it. Infra-red heater are best because they heat objects instead of air and will get machines up and running quicker. You could use a timer on a small heater to come on before you go out because it will take awhile to heat things up when cold if that's your plan. It all comes down to how fast you want it to heat up and does your area get to -20 F often, if so it will take more of a heater to work.
Paul
 
It shouldn't take more than one of those 1500 watt utility milkhouse heater to keep it warm. I have a 10' x 24' insulated shed that is used for exercise equipment and that all I use.
81TdTQ7WMVS._SL1500_.jpg


While you're framing it out you may want to cut a opening for a small window air conditioner. Those shipping containers can get pretty warm in the summer.

81TdTQ7WMVS._SL1500_.jpg
 
Please do yourself a favor and incorporate another egress area toward opposite end of your entrance door. This can be a door with a push bar, a egress window, etc.
Al 1
 
Thanks for the info.
Container has vents in all four corners that I plan on installing a vent fan and duct on for fresh air and fumes. Also am framing the door end wall on hinges to be able to fully open.
Thought about windows, but can't see a good way to seal since the sides are corrigated and would make for easier access if someone wanted to break in. I'm out in the sticks on a small farm and the shop will be out of view of the house about 500 feet away next to the road.
Thanks again,
JP
 
BTW:
I'm in west central Illinois so the winters do get cold.
I figured a small electric heater would be the best way to go, but would also like to have some sort of temperature control that I could have turned down when not in use and could turn up an hour or so before working in there if needed.
I do have an integrated 110v thermostat cord that I inherited with the farm, but will have to check to see if wire gauge will work with the heater current load or not. I just haven't seen any 110v electric heaters that were rated worth a hang yet.
 
I have a feeling electric will be the way to go especially if you're running it while unattended. To warm it up in there you'll need about 10,000 BTUs which is the equivalent of about a 3000 Watt electrical load which, is a 25 amp circuit. You're going to need more than an extension cord -that's for sure. Having lived in Chicago most my life, I know you'll get some colder weather. At times, you'll probably want more than 10k BTU.

In my garage, I just switched to this unit which is 20,000 BTU dual fuel (propane or natural gas) that has a 5 setting thermostat. I like it a lot and it's much better than the kerosene unit I had for the last 7-8 years. Anyhow, right now I'm running off propane until I run a gas line in the spring. I'm using 60lb tanks that cost 60 bucks to fill. It's 99.5% efficient and rated for enclosed indoor use. It runs for 3-4 weeks straight, keeping the insulated garage at 62 degrees but, our winters are milder here. The garage has 655 sqft floor space with 9ft ceilings. If you go the route of a gas unit, do like I do and install smoke and carbon monoxide detectors. That's 20 bucks of cheap insurance. My garage has plenty of air cracks and when I'm in there, I crack the overhead door a quarter inch. I've never had a problem with kero or so far, with this gas unit. The gas unit beats the pants off the kero unit. No smell at all.

Anyhow, if you want to keep the chill out of there when you're not inside, you could get a 1500 Watt oil-filled room heater and set it on low. They're pretty safe but like anything, keep a watchful eye for hazards. When you occupy the space, you could put extra electric units in there assuming you've got adequate power.

EDIT: BTW, meet Sasha. She's my constant companion and shop manager.

JPigg55 said:
BTW:
I'm in west central Illinois so the winters do get cold.
I figured a small electric heater would be the best way to go, but would also like to have some sort of temperature control that I could have turned down when not in use and could turn up an hour or so before working in there if needed.
I do have an integrated 110v thermostat cord that I inherited with the farm, but will have to check to see if wire gauge will work with the heater current load or not. I just haven't seen any 110v electric heaters that were rated worth a hang yet.
Click to expand...

SashHeater-medsize.JPG
 
I wish your closer. I would probably give you a sweet deal on one of these:

dayton-d-f79-3-l.jpg

I have one hanging in the shop, but I haven't used it since I put in the central heat/air.

dayton-d-f79-3-l.jpg
 
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