Proper size slitting saw 8520

[gajunkie]

Just wondering about slitting saw sizes appropriate for my 8520 3/4HP.

I know next to nothing about them (or machining in general lol), but thinking I would like to machine an arbor for one, and have it ready for when I need it or just to practice a new skill. Could come in handy for a clamp mount for an AR or something, I dunno just an example
Thinking the non-keyed versions would be a bit easier for the arbor anyways, guess maybe you could still use a keyed saw on a non-keyed arbor though.

Mostly work with Aluminum, but would get a few different ones for different metals.

TIA

Aaron

 

[T Bredehoft]

Instead of a key in the arbor, you could use a pin. Drill a hole, stuff a short pin in it. Bin there, done that.

 

[jcp]

I just built one for my 8530 Clausing using Joe Pi's design. It cut both aluminum and steel with no problem. Saw didn't have a key.

 

[gajunkie]

very nice! Can you give the dimensions and tooth count on that saw?

 

[mksj]

I made one awhile back that I use on my 3Hp knee mill, no key. It can handle a range of 1" hole arbors, usually I use HSS anywhere from 2.5-4.5" in various widths. I have a number of different blades, larger ones have alternating cutting teeth. One problem one can see without a key is the cap/screw can tighten to the point where it cannot be removed. I use a wave washer under the head so that has not been an issue. I mostly use it for aluminum, important to keep the RPM low, take a deep cut and use some light coolant/air in particular with aluminum to prevent binding/galling. I made mine from O1 steel, 1144 also works well.

 

[Larry$]

One problem one can see without a key is the cap/screw can tighten to the point where it cannot be removed.

I did that! I've got slitting saws with & W/O keyways. I've got a commercially made arbor but it is too bulky. It's easy to make them. It's also easy to mill a key slot and use it when the saw will take it. Pull it out when no keyway is in the saw. I've started using anti seize on the threads. So far it has worked. It doesn't take much power to use a thin slitting saw so I would think most bench mills could handle them. The thickest one I have is about 3mm X 100mm.

 

[jcp]

very nice! Can you give the dimensions and tooth count on that saw?

 

[gajunkie]

Beautiful work gentlemen!!

I ordered a couple saws from ebay with an 1" hole and made myself an arbor out of some mystery steel I found at the scrapyard. It seems like really good steel, fairly hard, but gets pretty stringy on the chips...or lack thereof lol. Got some nice cuts on my fingers clearing swarf!

Tried out machining a #2 morse taper with a 3/8x16 thread and mostly succeeded...ended up cutting it a little too skinny, but it still draws up nice in the mill and doesn't bottom out on the spindle...lesson learned.

For the business end, I mostly did what you guys did...low profile cap with a 1/4x20 cap screw. Fit is really close, but getting some runout and the resulting "chewing" sound out of the two saws i bought (used). Despite that, it cuts a nice slot and generally happy with the performance and the fact that I didn't have to scrap anything!!!! I'll investigate the runout issue soon.

 

[Larry$]

Nice! I don't think I've ever seen a slitting saw run absolutely true. That includes on a lot of YouTube videos of guys a lot more talented the I am.

 

[gard]

Awhile back, I mounted a 4 3/8 inch carbide tipped Freud wood saw blade from the local hardware store to a chepo import arbor. It works great on aluminum. I did some careful measuring and sharpening of the teeth to get them running more true and intend to never take it off that arbor. Every once in awhile some teeth get clogged with aluminum, have not figured the best way to clean the blade or reduce it from happening. The sharpening/trueing did seem to help some.