Powerful metal saw machine

I found a similar one being offered as scrap, very happy to pick it up and recondition.


John
 
Nice job on the saw. It looks like it's ready to go to work. I would consider adding either a spray mist or possibly a flood coolant system to extend blade life and make cuts even more accurate. I've had a Baileigh variable speed (21- 120rpm) for a few years. It can be used like yours with no coolant, but when cutting dry the blade life is only about 1/3 of what can be expected when using flood coolant. A dry blade can only be expected to last around 350 cuts before needing to be sharpened while the same blade with flood coolant can usually get around 1,000 cuts before needing to be sharpened.

Sharpening usually costs around $25.00 plus shipping if necessary. They can usually be resharpened 10 times before needing to be retoothed. Retoothing costs around $50.00 plus shipping if necessary. They can be resharpened and tetoothed until the diameter is reduced to the point it isn't large enough to cut through the intended material. I have 4 new 350 mm diameter blades for my saw with different tooth grinds for small diameter aluminum (3/4" to 2"), larger diameter aluminum (2" to 4 1/2" aluminum), small diameter steel, and larger diameter steel. I also have 1 older blade for steel that has been sharpened and retoothed to the point it's now only 315 mm.

Quality blades are not cheap. A middle of the road blade usually runs between $125.00 and $150.00. Higher quality blades are in the $175.00 to $300.00 range. The middle of the road blades can usually hold a tolerance of .005" in a high production situation until needing to be sharpened, while the higher quality ones can hold a tolerance of .002". In a light duty or fabrication shop the quality blades can hold .0005" until needing to be sharpened.
 
Nice job on the saw. It looks like it's ready to go to work. I would consider adding either a spray mist or possibly a flood coolant system to extend blade life and make cuts even more accurate. I've had a Baileigh variable speed (21- 120rpm) for a few years. It can be used like yours with no coolant, but when cutting dry the blade life is only about 1/3 of what can be expected when using flood coolant. A dry blade can only be expected to last around 350 cuts before needing to be sharpened while the same blade with flood coolant can usually get around 1,000 cuts before needing to be sharpened.

Sharpening usually costs around $25.00 plus shipping if necessary. They can usually be resharpened 10 times before needing to be retoothed. Retoothing costs around $50.00 plus shipping if necessary. They can be resharpened and tetoothed until the diameter is reduced to the point it isn't large enough to cut through the intended material. I have 4 new 350 mm diameter blades for my saw with different tooth grinds for small diameter aluminum (3/4" to 2"), larger diameter aluminum (2" to 4 1/2" aluminum), small diameter steel, and larger diameter steel. I also have 1 older blade for steel that has been sharpened and retoothed to the point it's now only 315 mm.

Quality blades are not cheap. A middle of the road blade usually runs between $125.00 and $150.00. Higher quality blades are in the $175.00 to $300.00 range. The middle of the road blades can usually hold a tolerance of .005" in a high production situation until needing to be sharpened, while the higher quality ones can hold a tolerance of .002". In a light duty or fabrication shop the quality blades can hold .0005" until needing to be sharpened.
Thanks for this info, I have a tray for flood coolant on mine and may add that in the future if shop space allows for dedicated placement.

Can you share the resource for sharpening these blades as well, I'm about to change to the spare I got with the saw and would love to recondition the one I'm using when I do so.

John
 
Most of my blades came from the Cold Saw Blade Store in Grand Blanc Michigan.


They also sharpened and retoothed my oldest one. I also found a couple Palmgren steel cutting blades on eBay. I did business with the Cold Saw Blade Store on the recommendation of participants on another professional board. There are also some good shops in California. One that was recommended is the Cold Saw Shop.


On the recommendation of the technician from the Cold Saw Blade Store all my blades are plain uncoated HSS with the number of teeth, and grind configuration for the materials mentioned. He did not feel coatings would be cost effective or necessary since I'm not doing production work.
 
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