- Joined
- Dec 13, 2012
- Messages
- 466
Hey Dave,
Here are some of my Green parts. OK, maybe a yellow one too.
Great looking tractor Randy!
Hey Dave,
Here are some of my Green parts. OK, maybe a yellow one too.
Jordan, I by no means am trying to start up an argument. I would just like to address your concerns.I'm not convinced about powder coating's benefits.
Actually, there are a wide range of powder types with all different types of wear properties. Some do stand up better than others in the elements just as well as paint. For example, look at a car that sits outside on a daily basis and never gets washed or waxed. Same result.- It can look great when new, but ages badly.
You are correct if the damage is down to bare metal. But, if it is just a surface scratch you can sand and buff it just like paint to as good as new.- It doesn't lend itself to "touch up" paint repairs.
Again, this is just like any other paint. This is the result of improper preperation.- Sub-surface corrosion and subsequent flaking of the coating can result.
You are correct again Jordan. Some of the powders are really, really tough to remove if done properly. They can also be very abraision resistant. I have also run across some paints that are in the same catagory and just do not want to let go of the metal.- Removal for re-coating reportedly isn't easy.
To some extent, the ease with which it can be done might compensate.
I prefer traditional baked enamel - now very expensive alas.
Jordan
It should be prepped as if it were to be painted. So it should be dewaxed and degreased.Randy
If I was prepping a part does it get hit with a prep-solv like you would before painting?