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PM-923M Stand/Dolly
- Thread starter abrace
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2015
- Messages
- 566
I put my PM 932 on an pump stand that I reused. I put casters and a 5/16" top on it . I had thought I might use it for a weld bench but I mounted my Pm932 on it instead. I put 3/4" jack screws to make it level and keep any movement out . The stand is 2" angle and there is a shelf under the top to put my RT and other stuff. I think it will work out fine. My top is I think is 29" from the floor.
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2014
- Messages
- 76
Sorry for the delay, I used 4" 12 gauge tubing. The 4" is overkill but I already had the stock. The angle iron the mill sits on is 2" .25 on top of 6" Albion casters.raising the height 8".
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- Joined
- Dec 25, 2015
- Messages
- 214
I picked up the steel I didn't already have in stock for this on Friday. Probably overkill but the mill is heavy and this is really a life safety item. This stand fails and it could kill someone.
Base frame will be 2" square tube 3/16" wall (already had it in stock, otherwise 1/8" would be fine). A sheet of 1/4" plate will be welded to the top of the frame that the PM stand will sit on and be bolted to.. Then I am welding some angle iron outriggers to the frame that the leveling feet will be in. That will be 4" by 3" rectangular tube, 3/8" thick.
As usual I will be using 7018 stick rod. For some reason I just like stick welding. I don't trust my mig welds...
I will take some pics as it goes together.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions!
---Aaron
Base frame will be 2" square tube 3/16" wall (already had it in stock, otherwise 1/8" would be fine). A sheet of 1/4" plate will be welded to the top of the frame that the PM stand will sit on and be bolted to.. Then I am welding some angle iron outriggers to the frame that the leveling feet will be in. That will be 4" by 3" rectangular tube, 3/8" thick.
As usual I will be using 7018 stick rod. For some reason I just like stick welding. I don't trust my mig welds...
I will take some pics as it goes together.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions!
---Aaron
Last edited:
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2015
- Messages
- 214
Got the frame cut and welded together. Just welded the top and bottom. Haven't done the inside and outside corners yet...that will have to wait.
2" square tube 3/16" wall. I did bevel the edges first.
7018 rod at about 95Amps DC.
I am not the best welder in the world...taken a couple classes in it and just stick weld whenever possible for the practice.
---Aaron
2" square tube 3/16" wall. I did bevel the edges first.
7018 rod at about 95Amps DC.
I am not the best welder in the world...taken a couple classes in it and just stick weld whenever possible for the practice.
---Aaron
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2015
- Messages
- 214
Some more work on this stand today. Hope this helps someone else thinking of doing the same thing.
Got the cross members welded in today. Also 2x2 3/16 tube.
Also got the angle iron 'outriggers' cut and welded on too. They are 4x3 3/8 thick. The leveling feet will be installed in these at the 4 corners. I went with 4" high so I could basically tuck the caster wheels behind them and have them just peeking out the bottom when the feet are all the way up.
Will try to cut the supports for the caster wheels tomorrow. They will be cut out of 1/4" plate.
One the the welds is a vertical up. You can tell because it looks the worst. Luckily it is a little out of focus. Makes it look better than it is!
As usual stick welded with Lincoln 7018 Murex. Used a combination of 3/32 and 1/8 inch rods depending on what I was doing. Power was from 85A to 130A.
---Aaron
Frame with cross members welded in:
One of the flat welds welding the 2x2 tube to the 3/8" thick angle. This was a single pass:
Showing a row of stitch welds, all one pass:
The vertical up. This was the best of the 4:
Added 2 more stitch welds per side. This is a little bit of a closeup:
Got the cross members welded in today. Also 2x2 3/16 tube.
Also got the angle iron 'outriggers' cut and welded on too. They are 4x3 3/8 thick. The leveling feet will be installed in these at the 4 corners. I went with 4" high so I could basically tuck the caster wheels behind them and have them just peeking out the bottom when the feet are all the way up.
Will try to cut the supports for the caster wheels tomorrow. They will be cut out of 1/4" plate.
One the the welds is a vertical up. You can tell because it looks the worst. Luckily it is a little out of focus. Makes it look better than it is!
As usual stick welded with Lincoln 7018 Murex. Used a combination of 3/32 and 1/8 inch rods depending on what I was doing. Power was from 85A to 130A.
---Aaron
Frame with cross members welded in:
One of the flat welds welding the 2x2 tube to the 3/8" thick angle. This was a single pass:
Showing a row of stitch welds, all one pass:
The vertical up. This was the best of the 4:
Added 2 more stitch welds per side. This is a little bit of a closeup:
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2015
- Messages
- 214
Todd,
I am using wheels as well. My rule is that nothing in the shop will be fastened in place too! The only exceptions so far are the lathe and the air compressor...those aren't on wheels.
Been working on the stand all day. Just got the wheel gussets/mounts done. They are 1" thick steel so they will clear the leveling feet when the feet are all the way up. Not my original plan but my design had a couple miscalculations in it as I had forgotten to account for the nut and washer on the leveling feet.
Just got done drilling and tapping the 16 5/16" holes for the wheel plate bolts. Took me a little extra time because I think my drill press is dying. Making a clicking sound from the top of the motor. I think the bushing/bearing in the motor is croaking.
I will post some pgotos later.
I am using wheels as well. My rule is that nothing in the shop will be fastened in place too! The only exceptions so far are the lathe and the air compressor...those aren't on wheels.
Been working on the stand all day. Just got the wheel gussets/mounts done. They are 1" thick steel so they will clear the leveling feet when the feet are all the way up. Not my original plan but my design had a couple miscalculations in it as I had forgotten to account for the nut and washer on the leveling feet.
Just got done drilling and tapping the 16 5/16" holes for the wheel plate bolts. Took me a little extra time because I think my drill press is dying. Making a clicking sound from the top of the motor. I think the bushing/bearing in the motor is croaking.
I will post some pgotos later.
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2015
- Messages
- 214
Days progress. Got the wheel gussets (1" steel, see above for why) all drilled, tapped, and welded up. Starting to take shape. My flat welds are starting to look pretty nice, but my vertical up still needs work. Very inconsistent. Sometimes they look great, sometimes like crap...a lot of has to do with when I can see the puddle well. Makes sense.
So far I am happy with this stand. Next step is to cut the 1/4" steel plate that will go on the top. The mill will end up sitting on that and being bolted to it.
Pics of it upside down, rightside up, and some weld closeups. I also have ONE of the leveling feet installed just to make sure it would work, but I removed tghe foot (pad) while I was welding. That is that strange looking brass 'nipple' you see when the stand is upside down.
So far I am happy with this stand. Next step is to cut the 1/4" steel plate that will go on the top. The mill will end up sitting on that and being bolted to it.
Pics of it upside down, rightside up, and some weld closeups. I also have ONE of the leveling feet installed just to make sure it would work, but I removed tghe foot (pad) while I was welding. That is that strange looking brass 'nipple' you see when the stand is upside down.
