Please help me identify this Skokie MT2 Accessory

itsme_Bernie

itsme_Bernie

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Good Morning Everyone!

I am still going through a box of accessories I am not sure I need, and selling, giving away, or actually using them...

I always Google the heck out of anything before posting about items like this, and i have again here. ButI don't even know what it does!

--This is a Neal Skokie (made in Germany) "GH/244-2" . It has an MT2 shank, and I got it with a Heavy Ten, which is an MT2 tailstock.

--It has numbers 6 through 16 stamped around a ring that uses Tommy Bars to actuate, but this is hard to move despite looking visually new.

--It has these two clamps, one behind and perpendicular to the other, that hold something square, like the end of a TAP. (See pics)


ANY guesses as to what it does would help! Thank you!


Bernie

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pemapu3a.jpg
 
Looks like a tap holder. The settings would be for a clutch mechanism. The two clamps slide in from the side and allow the tap to float to find its own center. #6 would be light pressure tap stop #16 heavy pressure tap stop. That's my guess now let me research it.

"Billy G"
 
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Thanks so much Bill!

That sounds much closer than anything I've come up with.

It might be a little stiff from lack of use. I have it soaking in kerosene now and I'll see if it loosens up a little bit.
 
I was a little confused that it started at 6 and went up to 16.. If I could get something to move on it I would be able to give more info.

But since I didn't get it, I was afraid to force anything

Bernie
 
Hi, if it's a tapping clutch (which it certainly looks like), the 6- 16 may be because 6mm - 16mm is the most common range of metric threads to tap... Call it 1/4 - 5/8", and the positions may correspond to clutch settings for too little torque to break a machine tap? Anything above M16 would want a MT3 shank to be sure of.enough torque (and even then a MT3 can spin in tough materials, particularly if there's no tang)

As suggested, it looks to be a "floating" holder, to allow for minor misalignment between the spindle and the pilot hole for the thread - very useful when tapping lots of holes in the mill, saves a lot of time positioning the.work, only needs to be within 10 or 20 thou" and the float will centre the tap, no breakages!

Just my ha'pennorth
 
Thanks British Steel! Great help and insight for me!

By the way-I love that quote in your signature!


Bernie
 
Defiantly a tapping head 6to16 mm diameter.
You will find some bellville washers inside the head when you unscrew it which load up the clutch mechanism,you need two toggle bars to set up the tap size.
Ihave two of these but mine has automatic reversing when you lift up the tool, yours as I see it you have to reverse the feed so be very conservative with your tap size settings.
I also found it to be the safest to drill and tap the morse taper to take a draw bar for use on a mill drill as I did not see the taper holding the tool in when reversing,
Note the hole in the top of the tool along side the taper is for oiling.
Good luck with this it is a nice machine.
 
Hey Millalot and British Steel- I have to ask you a dumb question- as I am having a really hard time turning the adjustment dial with the tommy bars. Even though I am looking right at the damn thing, I cannot see why it is so hard to turn.

I have it soaking in kerosene in case it was sitting around for a while and just needs to be freed up. I am trying not to force this thing, since it looks so new!

But if you know anything I don't about how I am supposed to turn this thing without forcing it, please let me know!

Thanks guys for all your help!


Bernie
 
itsme_Bernie said:
Hey Millalot and British Steel- I have to ask you a dumb question- as I am having a really hard time turning the adjustment dial with the tommy bars. Even though I am looking right at the damn thing, I cannot see why it is so hard to turn.

I have it soaking in kerosene in case it was sitting around for a while and just needs to be freed up. I am trying not to force this thing, since it looks so new!

But if you know anything I don't about how I am supposed to turn this thing without forcing it, please let me know!

Thanks guys for all your help!


Bernie
Click to expand...

Hi Bernie.
I suggest you grip the bottom half of the body in a vice. Make an extra long toggle bar [ good fit] apply some judicial 360 Deg heat to top ring, give it some hard raps with a copper hammer and pull, it is a RH thread.
If this does not move it possibly you have welded threads or crossed threads , although I do not know how this would have been managed in the first place!
Unless somebody has bodged things it is set at 15mm by the look of it so there should be clearance for the clutch mechanism to operate, if the clutch is operable you should be able to turn the Morse taper by the tang whilst it is clamped in the vice, use a tap wrench [or fit an MT 2 to 3 sleeve and use this to give you some purchase ]and imagine how much effort would be needed to turn a 15 mm tap, quite a bit of effort if the MT does not eventually click over with reasonable force plus a bit more, then the clutch mechanism is frozen as well. if it turns then clutch is OK but threads are the problem.
If this does not do it you might be looking at machining the cap off and then make a new one hopefully your cap is not hardened or it will have to be ground off.
I had to do this on the next larger size head that I had as somebody had stripped the threads luckily the body was harder than the cap. It turned out to be 100% .
I had some photos lined up but my USB has decided it does not like my camera anymore, so for now I hope the above helps.
 
Whoh!! Millalot!! I can't thank you enough- I'll give that some raps tomorrow!

I'll report back here with my findings!



Bernie
 
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