- Joined
- Nov 16, 2012
- Messages
- 5,596
As far as vises are concerned, my personal philosophy is to use one that commensurate with the mill and the expectations of manual machining. The really cheap ones for 50-60 bucks aren't worth a darn as they lack a sliding jaw pull-down mechanism to help keep the part from rising when it's tightened. Also, the really cheap ones are out of square/parallel by 5-10 thou.
I get along just fine with the basic ones we sell through PM. I just cleaned all my shop vises (5 of them) and trammed all my mills last week. Incidentally, my mills haven't been trammed in about 18 months and they were no more than 1 thou out and I got them all back well within a half thou over a 6.5" circle. After re-mounting the vises, I checked their surfaces (bed rails and horizontal rear jaws) and they ranged from almost dead-on up to a couple thou. This could easily corrected by using aluminum foil to shim the jaws or, just make new ones (which I often do). The bed rails themselves are very flat, even and parallel. I have no problems cranking-out parts "perfectly" square with mid-range quality vises. I like keeping $300 in my wallet too...
FWIW, I see a lot of folks damage their vises by putting offset pressure on them. This happens when you clamp a piece only using half the jaw surface. This puts a twist in the rear jaw that could forever damage a vise. Always try to hold a piece in the center of the jaws or, if you must put off to the far left or right side, use a parallel, piece of dummy stock or hard oak wood of the correct thickness on the empty side. Your pieces will come out better this way and you won't twist/break the rear jaw.
Ray
I get along just fine with the basic ones we sell through PM. I just cleaned all my shop vises (5 of them) and trammed all my mills last week. Incidentally, my mills haven't been trammed in about 18 months and they were no more than 1 thou out and I got them all back well within a half thou over a 6.5" circle. After re-mounting the vises, I checked their surfaces (bed rails and horizontal rear jaws) and they ranged from almost dead-on up to a couple thou. This could easily corrected by using aluminum foil to shim the jaws or, just make new ones (which I often do). The bed rails themselves are very flat, even and parallel. I have no problems cranking-out parts "perfectly" square with mid-range quality vises. I like keeping $300 in my wallet too...
FWIW, I see a lot of folks damage their vises by putting offset pressure on them. This happens when you clamp a piece only using half the jaw surface. This puts a twist in the rear jaw that could forever damage a vise. Always try to hold a piece in the center of the jaws or, if you must put off to the far left or right side, use a parallel, piece of dummy stock or hard oak wood of the correct thickness on the empty side. Your pieces will come out better this way and you won't twist/break the rear jaw.
Ray