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Part too long for table travel
- Thread starter HarryJ
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2015
- Messages
- 71
How many holes need to be drilled in line? Are they the same distance in from the ends?
Maybe set up for the first hole with an end stop at the end of the part, measuring in from the end. Then flip the part to butt up on the end stop.
Maybe set up for the first hole with an end stop at the end of the part, measuring in from the end. Then flip the part to butt up on the end stop.
Only two holes in line, one at each end of the part. Holes are the same distance from each end. Problem is, the part blank is saw cut, so the blank is not accurate in length. I would need to move the part on the table to machine the ends to length before I could flip the ends against a stop.
If the edge is straight or if it is possible to mill a section of the part so you have an indicating edge. Once done drill your holes then move the part down. Indicate the edge you just cut to become straight then indicate a hole to get your zero to continue the process.
- Joined
- Aug 3, 2017
- Messages
- 2,437
I would drill as many holes as you can do in 1 setup, then indicate in off of the existing holes. Depending on how many times you have to do this, there are 2 ways I can think of:
1- Just use an indicator in the 'last' hole to 'indicate' then move to the furthest away and try to tap that in. Go back and forth until you get it right. You can indicate in with a coax indicator, last-word style indicator, etc.
2- To be most accurate, you need to again do #1, BUUUT to make your life way easier: Clamp piece of material down to the table, face it, then clamp down your piece on top of the plate. Drill/ream the 1st bunch of holes, going through the plate below (hopefully lined up over your T slots
). Keep the plate attached, but remove the piece. Put gauge pins into a few of the holes, and use THAT to align the piece on the same 'line'. That way you don't even have to move your DRO, since you'll just be 'redrilling' the last few holes.
1- Just use an indicator in the 'last' hole to 'indicate' then move to the furthest away and try to tap that in. Go back and forth until you get it right. You can indicate in with a coax indicator, last-word style indicator, etc.
2- To be most accurate, you need to again do #1, BUUUT to make your life way easier: Clamp piece of material down to the table, face it, then clamp down your piece on top of the plate. Drill/ream the 1st bunch of holes, going through the plate below (hopefully lined up over your T slots
). Keep the plate attached, but remove the piece. Put gauge pins into a few of the holes, and use THAT to align the piece on the same 'line'. That way you don't even have to move your DRO, since you'll just be 'redrilling' the last few holes.Clamp part on table. Use edge of table or T slot as ref for getting parallel to x travel.
Place two 123 blocks on end of part (3 inch to 3 inch lengths).
Now clamp a stop block at end of 123 blocks.
Position and drill first hole.
Remove blocks, slide part over (exactly 6 inches.)
Position mill for second hole. drill.
Done.
Place two 123 blocks on end of part (3 inch to 3 inch lengths).
Now clamp a stop block at end of 123 blocks.
Position and drill first hole.
Remove blocks, slide part over (exactly 6 inches.)
Position mill for second hole. drill.
Done.
- Joined
- May 4, 2019
- Messages
- 792
Drill the first hole. Clamp a sacrificial block to the part, say at mid length. Drill a hole in the block a known distance from the first hole. Move the part. Indicate on the hole in the block and zero the DRO. Move the remaining distance to the second hole.