One shot lubricator PM1340GT quick change gears (photo heavy)

Hello Alan,

I am right now in the process of making my own gearbox lubrication manifold. I am curious as to how you drilled 8 1/4" deep hole into the 1/2" brass bar. Any machining and setup hints to make this go smoothly?

Also, I tried threading my copper tubing- it's 4mm OD but I managed to thread it #8-32. The thread is weak and could easily break. Any hints on your procedure for threading the copper tubing are welcome.

Thanks,

Salah
 
Haven't seen Alan post anything for quite awhile. You can buy brass tubing or steel tubing, previously I drilled some square aluminum stock in the lathe and used an aircraft drill from both end and then made a plug for one end. Last one I made for someone else I used heavy wall steel tubing I purchased from ACE Hardware and tapped one end with an 1/8" NPT tap and made a plug on the other end. I cut the 4 mm tubing using a wire stripper cutters <> and the ream the end. Drill the holes, put a bar through it and then place the segments into the tube and I just use some metal epoxy to hold them in place. Then glue in the plug at the end.

Plder post. https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/pm1340gt-gearbox-pump-oiler-system.37284/#post-507751
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Interesting. I didn't realize that open gears were still used. PM1440HD has an enclosed gearbox with the gears running in oil. Good idea but it leaks some. Has a site glass.
 
I would think brake line(s) would be a possibility? Silver solder would be a go-to for me if I was going that route.
 
Lots of people smarter and more skilled than me have designed and shown their solutions, but I still have to ask this...

Given most folks are going through the effort of making manifolds with multiple tubes, and bending and aligning tubes to optimize oil distribution in the tray, why not just make one tube off the manifold per tray hole, insert the tubes into the holes to guarantee distribution down into the gears and bearings below?
 
.LMS. said:
Lots of people smarter and more skilled than me have designed and shown their solutions, but I still have to ask this...

Given most folks are going through the effort of making manifolds with multiple tubes, and bending and aligning tubes to optimize oil distribution in the tray, why not just make one tube off the manifold per tray hole, insert the tubes into the holes to guarantee distribution down into the gears and bearings below?
Click to expand...

I am thinking that the holes allow the oil to drip, thereby increasing the time frame between refill. If the tubes were placed in the holes, the oil would just squirt down onto the gears and shortly thereafter you would have to do it again.
I am just thinking out loud here. I don't own that particular lathe.
 
Thanks for chiming in David. Yours is a work of art, but I am not sure I would call it "easier" :)

My original question was related to deep hole drilling of 8.5", in my case, of a round 3/4" C360 brass. It is a challenging machining task. The best guideline I found on YouTube was this:


Joe Pieczynski is a talented machinist and he gives nice tips in this video. He's only drilling 4" (granted in stainless steel), but still, the measures he goes to in order to ensure straightness and concentricity of the drilled hole are noteworthy. You can skip to minute 17:00 if you wish to avoid the board explanation; it is a bit convoluted but informative none the less should you choose to watch that also.
 
You would need a lot more tubes and metering valves, in addition one could not bend the tubes to go into the holes as there is a cover plate that goes on top and then the switch panel. A couple of other things to note, the standard oil port is on the right (chuck) side, you need to pump a large volume to flood the plate so all the holes would get oil. The lathe comes with heavy packing grease on the gears and also may cover the exit of some of the drip holes, so clean off the packing grease and also use an oil can to pump oil through each of the holes to make sure they are clear. A few of the oil holes lubricate the bearings, make sure they are getting the oil. There is is a cloth mesh over the holes, this helps in slowing the flow of oil through the holes and also distribution, do not remove it.

The design with a rear manifold and a bunch of segment tubes is easy and quick to make, as opposed to making a large plate style replacement manifold. I have used 4mm bejur tubing because it was what I had, but an easier solution may be to use a brass tube or square manifold with small copper tubing feed tubes and just solder each feeder tube to the brass manifold. Tapping each feeder tube would be a real PTA. I had a metal drip pan under the gears to collect the oil that dripped down off the gears.

Manifold with feeder tubes gives very even oil distribution with about 8 cc of oil, I typically used two lever pumps.
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Top cover plate limits size and height placement of the tubes, so it fits back in and separates the switch compartment.
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