old enco

[Zigeuner]

sorry, I hit 1 too many zeros. I'll report back what I get. I'm talking about a single cut. No way this old lathe could match the precision of a good 10EE or many of the other high dollar lathes. But close to a.001 is better than I need for most of my jobs. I'm just an old hobbist. I got the 3 and 4 jaw chucks, a noname BX wedge toolpost and a good tailstock chuck--no steady, follower or faceplate.
It had all the extra gears per the Grizzly manual and 4 others I don't see where to use. They appeared to never have been unwrapped.

You will be fine with that machine. It's a good, solid lathe. Mine is a 1994 model. It's got all that I need. I was using it today to make four 2" wheels for my Crafstman motorcycle lift. It had 3" wheels and it was too high to slide under my Harley-Davidson Dyna. I found some nice 2" X 2" steel round drops from a steel yard and narrowed them and reamed them for ouilite busihings. All is well now and the bike is up on the lift. The 1/2" lowering job did the trick. I got them all within .001 width and that's that. The old Enco came through again!

I used the machine so much since I bought it that I wore the original chuck a bit. I cleaned the jaws up a couple of times but a couple of years ago I bought a new chuck from Enco. It has reversible jaws which are nice. The original chuck has change jaws which came with the machine to reverse. I use the original chuck with my 6" rotary table sometimes now.

My lathe has a 2 hp Chinese motor that's been very good. The only repairs to the lathe so far have been two new drive belts (they are dual side by side. I presuime yours is the same) and a burned out power light. I couldn't find a replacement neon bulb since it was an oddball so I replaced the light unit with a red indicator from a switch that I had. Otherwise, it's all been good.

As I mentioined earlier before you posted, I finally raised my lathe bed 3" with some steel risers. There wasn't emough room under there to clear out the swarf. I also wanted it a bit higher. It's easy to do. I also added a two-axis SINO DRO about a year ago. It works great!

Let us know how you like your machine when you get it cleaned up.

P.S. Enco is still selling a similar machine for almost the same price. The newer one has 18 speeds (Mine goes from 70 to 2100 with 8 speeeds which is all I have ever needed)

 

[joesmith]

8 gears were mentioned in the previous 110-1340 post. I inventoried my tool box and found 8-- 30, 36, 42, 50, 51, 60, 66.

I matched the metric plate on the lathe to the G4006 manual and there is a match. Only the 30 tooth gear is listed on the metric plate. The grizzly g4016 parts list shows only 1 change gear in the inventory. Where are the other 7 gears used?
As soon as I can I will make test cuts to verify the thread charts I can use.

I ran into a few minor problems I must fix before I can try cutting. The lathe is runs thru all speed and is reasonably quiet. I ran several gear selections and all seems ok. I am still anxious to see how much of a taper the lathe cuts after it is leveled.
To me that is a very important alignment test. It has been difficult to work in the garage more than a few hrs each morning. It was 104 at 8 pm last night and is 105 now.

 

[Zigeuner]

8 gears were mentioned in the previous 110-1340 post. I inventoried my tool box and found 8-- 30, 36, 42, 50, 51, 60, 66.

I matched the metric plate on the lathe to the G4006 manual and there is a match. Only the 30 tooth gear is listed on the metric plate. The grizzly g4016 parts list shows only 1 change gear in the inventory. Where are the other 7 gears used?
As soon as I can I will make test cuts to verify the thread charts I can use.

I ran into a few minor problems I must fix before I can try cutting. The lathe is runs thru all speed and is reasonably quiet. I ran several gear selections and all seems ok. I am still anxious to see how much of a taper the lathe cuts after it is leveled.
To me that is a very important alignment test. It has been difficult to work in the garage more than a few hrs each morning. It was 104 at 8 pm last night and is 105 now.

I really don't know what all of those gears might be used for. I'm sure that they are addressed in the manual. I have to look for mine. LOL. I only cut Inch threads. If you do metric, the manuals you have tell you to change two gears and then it will go metric, assuming that you have an English lead screw. Of course I'm sure that you know you don't disconnect the drive when you do metric threads. You shut off, back up, tighten up and then cut again until you are done.

Is your lathe an 8 speed? The newer ones are 16 speed. I always wondered whether they did that with a two speed motor. The 8 speed headstock is built like a tank. The gears are enormous~!

As to cutting witout a taper, there is a scale on the back of the tailstock. You can move the two set screws (one on each side of the tailstock) to line it up. I did that with mine and it will cut without a taper.

Good luck!

 

[joesmith]

I haven"t been able to find a manual. The Grizzly G4016 manual metric threading chart matches the plate on my change gear box. The G4016 manual indicates that only 1 extra gear was supplied (30t) which is substituted for a 40t for the metric setup. I will verify this in the next few days by making test cuts. I still have some cleaning and painting to do.

My lathe is a 2hp 8 speed. I also have a 13x40 I purchased new from WT Tool about 6 yrs ago. It haS 18 SPEEDS. 9 speeds from 60 to 1150 on the first pulley step and 90-1800 on the second pulley step. It has a single belt to the motor.

I have made a few test cuts bt want to do some more tuning before I run it seriously. So far I like how it runs. It is reasonably quiet in all gear settings. The on off lever is backwards from my WT machine. This will cause some confusion.

I will try to raise my lathe 3 inches also. It is too low--about 3" lower than my wt machine.

My reference to cutting a taper was as a test that the lathe is level. I refer to making a light cut on a piece of steel 1" or greater for 3 or 4" close to the headstock without supported the stockn with the tailstock center. Mike at each end of the cut. A taper indicates that the lathe is not level or that bed wear is causing the taper. My first try showed +.002" taper. This is not good. I need to improve this.

Thanks for the comments. Joe Smithj

 

[Zigeuner]

There is another cause of taper. The tailstock could be misaligned with the headstock. There is an adjustment on the tailstock on the 13X40 but you know that.

It's intertesting how they get 18 speeds on the newer ones. It's an 8 speed with step pulleys. I never needed any more speeds than the basic eight. I wouldn't care to change belts. Mine has two belts side by side on same sized pulleys.

 

[joesmith]

I agree, I have never changed the belt on my newer 13x40> The 9 slower speeds meet my needs.
Joe

 

[Zigeuner]

I agree, I have never changed the belt on my newer 13x40> The 9 slower speeds meet my needs.
Joe

I guess that the 18 speed specification is just a sales gimmick. Mine goes from 70 rpm (great for threading) to 2000 (nice for polishing, but rather scary. LOL) If you take the cover off of the gearbox, you will see that it is very robust looking inside. The gears are quite large. It holds a gallon of oil, but changing it is really a waste of time and money because it always looks very clean.

It has a dual range on the gear levers. It's actually a four speed gearbox with a dual geared range for each speed. Nice.