Oil Sight Gauge

[MyLilMule]

I will be going through a lot of trouble cleaning up and getting my K&T looking as good as it runs, I was thinking of how I can "fix" the oil sight gauges.

I already have replacement acrylic discs, but now I'd like to do something with this. Any ideas? I thought about painting it and then using dry transfer letters, but not sure where to go to get the letters (or whole words) that are the right size, etc. Not to mention, how they would hold up to sitting in oil.

Would be interested in hearing options/feedback.

 

[Bi11Hudson]

Model builders have access to both decals and dry transfer lettering. Dry transfers are also available at many office supply locations. At the primitive level, engraving and paint will serve the purpose. Though crude, will provide visual indication. A critical point to Dry Transfers is a spotlessly clean surface to start. Even fingerprints will destroy the film.

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[woodchucker]

I used dry transfers, by themselves they will not hold up, but you can clear coat them with lacquer or enamel to protect them.
you need to spray a very dry coat and work up, a wet coat can cause them to wrinkle. and it also depends on the brand.

Finding dry transfer might be difficult. many of the companies no longer exist. computers wiped many out.

 

[RJSakowski]

I used to use dry transfer lettering for a product that I built. I had custom lettering sheets made for the words that I used. I would spray with a clear enamel after lettering on brushed aluminum. I question how well they would hold up in a continuous oil bath though.

I had success with electro-etching numbers on steel using a nail polish resist to define the lettering. It produced very crisp numbers. https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/etching-steel-using-a-2-5-watt-diode-laser.76262/
If you know someone with a laser engraver, it is fairly easy to produce the artwork. The artwork can also be done manually if one has the patie4nce for it. Coat the metal with the resist and scrape the art details in.

Another way would be to us a photosensitive p,c, board. https://www.jameco.com/Jameco/Products/ProdDS/616251.pdf A photomask can be made by printing the artwork on transparency film on a computer printer (laser printer preferred). This will produce either copper artwork on a light colored epoxy background or the negative, depending on your design.

If you know someone with a cnc router, they can engrave the artwork directly on either plastic or aluminum.

If you know someone with a 3D printer, they could produce the artwork for you.

If you have access to a set of metal stamps, you could stamp the lettering in a piece of aluminum.

 

[MyLilMule]

I've decided to go the dry transfer route. I've used them in model making for years.

I found a sheet that comes close to the right size at a Hobby Lobby. And then clear coat them with an enamel clear coat. The enamel seems to hold up well to the oils and also to kerosene or other solvent type cleaners.

The other mechanical/physical options just don't seem viable or practical.

 

[whitmore]

A laser printed two words and two bars (use PowerPoint if you have to) sandwiched
between a couple of acrylic or acetate sheets, and bonded with epoxy, ought to tolerate
oil immersion. I'd worry about paints, in oil contact.

Postscript printers can perform arbitrary scaling of the image.

I don't see compatibility info for acrylic, but PVC, polycarbonate, mylar and epoxy are definitely
oil-tolerant; epoxy should saturate the paper to keep oil out.

 

[MyLilMule]

That's getting a little overly complex. The plate has to be a certain thickness or then I have to start messing with different gaskets/washer thickness on the gauge. Again, I don't see that as practical.

I've been using enamel paints on my machines. Once cured, they hold up incredibly well to oils and solvents.

 

[woodchucker]

A laser printed two words and two bars (use PowerPoint if you have to) sandwiched
between a couple of acrylic or acetate sheets, and bonded with epoxy, ought to tolerate
oil immersion. I'd worry about paints, in oil contact.

Postscript printers can perform arbitrary scaling of the image.

I don't see compatibility info for acrylic, but PVC, polycarbonate, mylar and epoxy are definitely
oil-tolerant; epoxy should saturate the paper to keep oil out.

the sandwich will soak oil in and the paper will be oil soaked. While maybe it won't deteriorate, I'm not sure it really protects it.
And it will be quite thick.. you realize this is only about .040 thick probably.

 

[Technical Ted]

I wonder how PLA or PTEG would hold up in oil? It might end up being a little too thick for any size limitation, but I've printed labels of sorts using two different colors with my 3D printer.

Ted

 

[MyLilMule]

I wonder how PLA or PTEG would hold up in oil? It might end up being a little too thick for any size limitation, but I've printed labels of sorts using two different colors with my 3D printer.

Ted

I'm not sure, but I think it would look terrible. The resolution on my PLA printer, even as good as it is, would not do. If I were to do anything, I'd use the resin printer. The resolution is much better. But I question how it would hold up, too. I suppose I could give samples of each a bath in Mobile 68, but I don't see the point when I have better alternatives.