Newbie needing help with 820

SCORE!!!!!
I've spent hours on eBay looking for a spindle and/or other parts, and even ordered the wrong one & returned it. Then on a whim, I checked CraigsList and found someone had posted a "50's Logan 200?" headstock for parts fairly close to me.
Called the great guy and asked questions, he says.... he has a 200, it's not the same as his, it came as spare parts with the 200.....
We drove less than an hour away and that sucker looks, and measures out to be the same as my Model 820. "Please take my $40 to clean out your garage" and I'm a very happy camper right now. A little more cleaning and I'll start painting the casting. Ordered all new bearings on Thursday (they had the back bearing in stock), so this will start the repair/cleanup/semi-restore project.
When I got it torn down, I found some slight differences and then traced them in the parts catalog I have and found that this head is a '44-46 with the front bearing retainer nut design. Mine's a 1947 and everything else appears the same.



The Bull Gear and both Back Gears have a couple of teeth missing, but mine are fine so I'll combine the two to make up a complete



Both front and rear bearings in the older head looks original and are "New Dimension" brand, but had rusted at the lower edges. Mine looks like its already been replaced with different type of shielded bearing.



NOW, for all of those wondering (and myself), I took my shaft and bearings out of the headstock on the lathe, and replaced it with the older replacement to verify that it was the bearings.
Measured again the same way as I did before, and that runout was less than .002". So all of those that said it probably wasn't the spindle, you're right.
I'll be replacing it anyway just to make use of my $40 investment.

Thank you to everyone for the ideas and help again.
 
Did some more cleaning the other day, taped up the machined surfaces on the head stock casting and threw it into the blast cabinet.





It turned out pretty good, a little paint and detailing on the feed lever.................



But this waiting two weeks for parts is killing me now. I want to get this thing together and play with some projects.
 
wow looking good what are you using for paint? I need to start painting some of my pieces as I remove and clean them.. I too was thinking about the blast cabinet, some duct tape should protect the races I guess
 
rambin said:
wow looking good what are you using for paint? I need to start painting some of my pieces as I remove and clean them.. I too was thinking about the blast cabinet, some duct tape should protect the races I guess
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I'd remove the bearings when doing any grit blasting. You do not want to take any chances of introducing grit into them. Once removed you now do not need to worry about the races. Now if you are concerned about the bores in the castings that the bearings are retained in, then you can certainly use duct tape as protection for them. I have found duct tape to be very effective in protecting parts from grit blasting, although I doubt that a little blasting in the bores are going to do any real damage.
 
Just be sure to clean the surface that had the tape on it with one of the citrus based adhesive removers like Goo-Be-Gone followed by varsol or equivalent before you start reassembly.
 
rambin said:
wow looking good what are you using for paint? I need to start painting some of my pieces as I remove and clean them.. I too was thinking about the blast cabinet, some duct tape should protect the races I guess
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While I want this good old classic machine clean, I'm also going to use it and want it functional. I'm just using Rust-Oleum gray from Ace Hardware so I can touch it up whenever I want to.
And yes, duct tape is what I use for all machined or bored surfaces when I blast something.

RandyM said:
I'd remove the bearings when doing any grit blasting. You do not want to take any chances of introducing grit into them. Once removed you now do not need to worry about the races. Now if you are concerned about the bores in the castings that the bearings are retained in, then you can certainly use duct tape as protection for them. I have found duct tape to be very effective in protecting parts from grit blasting, although I doubt that a little blasting in the bores are going to do any real damage.
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Great reminder Randy!
Always remove any bearings when getting anywhere near blast cabinet, and then do your pressurized air grit removal and clean up in a separate area. And if you have the room, use a long tip air nozzle while turning your work over & over to get all of the media out of those small places.
I use brake parts cleaner for cleaning up all machine surfaces after removing the duct tape the same day, never let that tape sit on there very long or it will get to be a mess. I've blasted lots of cylinder heads, valve covers, blocks, and water pump housings, and there are lots of paint prep solvents out there to clean up with too.
 
You're doing a great job Campfire. Keep the posts coming.
 
campfire did you use spray bombs for that paint or a brush? looks like a good color choice!
 
rambin said:
campfire did you use spray bombs for that paint or a brush? looks like a good color choice!
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Rattle Can Special!
Of course the 98 degree temperature helped when I left it sitting in the sun for a bit. Probably had a surface temp of around 120+ when I laid the paint on it.
 
hmm I always think of rattle can paint not drying as tough as brushed on but that's prbly just something Ive dreamed up over the years... cast being such a rough/porous surface compares to flat steel it may hold on really well, thinking I might try out your rattle can method...mind ya I don't have that California sun oven to bake it on ;p
 
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