New (to me) Grizzly DF-1224G or G1003 lathe (aka Busybee/ Dai Fong DF-1224G)

[lSherlockl]

build/restoration process slowed/halted by the broken gear or gearshaft in the apron, and debating how to transit it into the basement before winter (and being partially apart may help that.

But being a wild and brash individual I had a nice coupon that would let me pick up a quick change tool post pretty reasonable, from sizing guides BXA covered 12 in swing and thats what i got so bigger = beefier = more stable right. and that's what I went with. I couldn't find detailed specs on tool heights but i decided grab it and see.


so figured the knurling attachment would be easy to see as it has the tool baked into it. tool mount is not bottomed out on the compound and nearly as low as it can go and it sits below center point think we are good?


took a normal tool holder out and dropped that in as well once again nearly bottoming it out on he compound (ignore the fact its spun around ) and the top edge of the tool holder just below center/at center

overall the tool post is almost as wide as the compound. the question is while its still "new" did I do a dumb or should i return it for a AXA?

I think though optimally you want the tool as low on the post as you can as its the most rigid right? just want to make sure i have the right sizing to fit or use with my machine.

 

[fitterman1]

I think the criteria you should be asking yourself is, what tools are you going to be using ?
Insert tooling tips normally sit high in their respective holder, which may force you to drop your toolpost holder lower still.
Hss tooling will be fine with your bxa cause you can pack them up to compensate.
I use 1/2" and 5/8 " square shank indexable holders in my axa's on my g0602.
5/8" won't fit in axa's so i machine them out or remove metal from the bottom of the tool to fit the slot.
I would stick with the bxa's because you have a stiff looking lathe.
This is a 5/8" tool in an axa. Axa machined to lower the slot.

 

[fitterman1]

Imagine how rigid a bxa would be fitted to your toolpost.

 

[fitterman1]

I've even experimented doing this to some toolholders.
Same insert but a 1" shank. As long as it fits center height and does the job who cares what hangs off your toolpost.

 

[fitterman1]

This one is machined down to fit axa.

 

[lSherlockl]

thanks all very good points.

I think my gap between centerline and compound is at a perfectly annoying height/spot kind of smack between AXA and BXA

Its reasonably beefy for being a 12x24 but at the same time I don't want to unnecessarily bulk it up for no good reason.

I really haven't delved into getting tooling yet, it came with a bunch of stuff for lantern toll post with small square HSS inserts if you can call them that.

Probably a mixture of insert tooling because to be fair im a hobbiest and their simplicity or ease or replacing a damaged or worn insert is attractive, but likely work with alot of aluminum so HSS will see plenty of use too.

though on the flip side its always easier to mount or secure a smaller tool than a larger one. i should dig out the original 4 way tool post to compare its supported height ranges

 

[fitterman1]

To be fair you could pick either size.
I personally would go bxa for more rigidity which would mean less vibration and chatter.
Your lathe looks like it has a heftier crosslide than my g0602 which makes me tend towards the bxa.
Obviously cost of the bxa is more compared to axa and you have to take that into account also.
Either way I'm confident it will be a great lathe.

 

[Downunder Bob]

Yes BXA should be the best choice for your lathe. Generally BXA fits all 12XX machines.

I also find some AXA items a little on the light side, certainly not as rigid as they could be.

 

[lSherlockl]

Yes BXA should be the best choice for your lathe. Generally BXA fits all 12XX machines.

I also find some AXA items a little on the light side, certainly not as rigid as they could be.

thanks both to you and fitterman1 I am more confident with sticking with the BXA. Just really wanted to double check or sanity check that it was within reason.

cheers!

 

[lSherlockl]

So long over due update. Over the holidays with some extra vacation completed disassembly and cleanup and of course i should have taken more pictures or document more along the way but its hard to remember and harder when you are all covered in grease dirt and oil

Had to repair a broken gear tooth on the gear shaft that moves the carriage along the tooth rack so got a opportunity to learn brazing as well as appreciate quality endmills. I will admit i cheated and spent quality time with hand files to match the profiles you can not feel any difference or extra resistance or binding of the carriage so it all seems good.


I will say the next most annoying part was the headstock that teardown took a bit more to figure out and was absolutely caked in old grease. that and the spindle bearings do have sort of a press fit to the spindle so pulling the spindle out was a bit of a treat.

I will say re-assembly is much more fun its all clean parts and it goes much faster very satisfying

and there she is all back together still shows its age/wear on the chip pan but really not much ear on anything else from tear down, there is some scratches on the carriage drive rod, and the gear shifter levers feel a pit finicky but I'm kind of guessing that is the case on most smaller/import machines (as in you kind of waggle them so your confident its engaged or disengaged). The ways and gears all seem very good shape I think overall I was very lucky for a old small machine.


I have not trammed in the machine yet but decided to make a few chips and test things out after mounting the new BXA tool post, which fits just fine looks a little large but fits and centers with my 5/8 in insert tool holders.

About a thou out in diameter over a inch so work to do yet, but not horrendous for a 4 hr ride on a trailer and being torn completely apart down stairs and reassembled. I really need to get a machinist level to help with those activities I can fortunately (or maybe unfortunately as it adds a point of complexity) rotate the head in reference to the bed but still need to rule in or out bed twist first. Lot to learn yet there and get the tail stock trued up too.


the to do list
Decide on where it will live permanently in the shop and finalize wiring to it.

Cleanup the primary drawer and contents (original hss tooling other small parts etc but that is alot alot of cleaning)

Get a DRO setup on it yes i should get better at counting/reading dials but a dro is so handy.

This is much so for the future i think is either convert motor to brushless or VFD + 3ph motor? the jump/jolt especially at the higher belt speed settings is very annoying as there is sort of no ramping up.

Overall quite happy and j