New to me Clausing Atlas 10100.

[minsk]

Hey guys , love this forum. thought i would post/share my new to me Clausing Atlas 6" lathe.
NOte how i used 30x30 extrusion to form frame and mount the motor. The qtcp is one i bought off of ebay for my harbor fraught mini lathe. I will soon upgrade to the LMS one. I will tidy is up and put some fresh pain on it soon.

Daniel

 

[jwmay]

Awesome! Congratulations to you!

I have been considering the purchase of the same model lathe. I hope that you will have time to give us some thoughts regarding this machine, as compared to your HF mini.

While there are several people on the internet willing to debate this 101 vs. a new import mini, I get the impression that it’s not first hand experience. You have a very valuable perspective, in my view.

 

[minsk]

jymay,

this machine definitely has a better stance. is obviously way better made than my 7 x 10 chinesium one. It has like almost ten more inches working space than the harbor fraught one. I do have my harbor fraught one dialed in pretty well, and i have the basics learned on it. The10100 is just is stout. i love all the craftsmanship that went into these little lathes. I am actively looking for the milling attachment for the 10100 and a heavy rest...i know you they are not super rigid for milling..but it would be nice to be able to do some slotting...and a little tee nut making. the only thing i like about my harbor freight one is the variable speed and the reverse. When allis said and done i will have a 12 x 36 lathe. .

 

[westsailpat]

Thanks for letting us see your set up minsk . I don't think I would classify the milling attachment as super rigid , I have been using mine and it works very well but it has limitations . I would not do a climb cut with it , well maybe for a spring cut and then watch out for back lash . Also I'm thinking of mounting a small vice in the jaw . Some more constructive criticism and I'm saying this in a friendly manner because I want to see you succeed with your machine to it's best potential . OK here we go , I would get rid of the particle board (It's temp right ?) . I would get a sheet of 3/4 plywood , cut 2 pieces the size you need and screw and bond them together . sand the edges smooth and straight and cover / bond / screw the edges with Oak . this will make a solid base . Next I would get some type of legs rather then setting it on top of a bench . the reason for this is it' easier to control twist . If you must mount it on a bench be sure to shim it so there is no wobble and no twist before you tack it down . After you have the base secured to legs / bench , mount the machine atop and attach it at it's 4 points , shim it so it is level and solid and watch that you are not sucking it down to make up for a gap at one end . This way you won't need the uni strut . The way you have the uin strut set up it will make it difficult to clean out the swarth . Also for my personal taste I would mount the switch off to the left away from the machine .

 

[minsk]

the 40x40 extrusion is way stronger and rigid than plywood, it is bolted to the extrusion on all 4points, and has a center brace. it is only attached to the bench top with the two starrett machinist clamps, so there is the tiniest bit of movement if i really push on it ideally i would like it bolted on a wheeled tool box. this is not the lathe's permanent home. . whoops..i meant "not" super rigid on the milling attachment.i have milling attachment i bought from LMS for my harbor freight lathe. it is nice but the lathe itself is so small its really quite useless..i may make some kind of adapter to mount it on the atlas.

 

[T Bredehoft]

I've been using a duplicate of that lathe for four years. As a toolmaker, I'm used to more advance machines, but this has done almost everything I've asked of it. I have installed an electric reverse switch, and a chuck security device, can run and cut forward and back with no problem. I've been able to work consistently within .001 to .002 diameter (with an attached dial indicator). Yes, I'm looking at a somewhat larger lathe, primarily for the AXA toolpost that comes with it. The biggest limitation I've found is the 1 1/8 drilling capacity of the tailstock.
Its a good sound workman lathe, given its' capacities. Don't be afraid to make it work.

 

[minsk]

I've been using a duplicate of that lathe for four years. As a toolmaker, I'm used to more advance machines, but this has done almost everything I've asked of it. I have installed an electric reverse switch, and a chuck security device, can run and cut forward and back with no problem. I've been able to work consistently within .001 to .002 diameter (with an attached dial indicator). Yes, I'm looking at a somewhat larger lathe, primarily for the AXA toolpost that comes with it. The biggest limitation I've found is the 1 1/8 drilling capacity of the tailstock.
Its a good sound workman lathe, given its' capacities. Don't be afraid to make it work.

what motor are you using? what reverse switch...i really wanted a lighted push button switch for mine...i bought this non working and without a motor. i faber-cobbled it together to make it work

 

[T Bredehoft]

The original motor got to 'growling' nastily, I bought (online) a Dayton, 1/3 horse motor, I ordered one that was reversible. Switch, common/cheap DPDT toggle switch. It's mounted away from the on/off switch.

The best improvement (for my use) was a ER40 chuck mounted on a MT2 arbor, with drawbar to secure it. I've never caught it running out more than .001. Adequate for my use.

 

[minsk]

The original motor got to 'growling' nastily, I bought (online) a Dayton, 1/3 horse motor, I ordered one that was reversible. Switch, common/cheap DPDT toggle switch. It's mounted away from the on/off switch.

The best improvement (for my use) was a ER40 chuck mounted on a MT2 arbor, with drawbar to secure it. I've never caught it running out more than .001. Adequate for my use.

oh a er 40 collette is a nice upgrade.......i have a 1/2 hp westinghouse motor on mine 1750 rpms

 

[minsk]

The original motor got to 'growling' nastily, I bought (online) a Dayton, 1/3 horse motor, I ordered one that was reversible. Switch, common/cheap DPDT toggle switch. It's mounted away from the on/off switch.

The best improvement (for my use) was a ER40 chuck mounted on a MT2 arbor, with drawbar to secure it. I've never caught it running out more than .001. Adequate for my use.

where did you buy yer er40 and drawbar?