New to me 10K , drive questions

piper184 said:
That is a different motor mount / countershaft setup than on my 10K.
This is the only picture I have on the computer, but could take more if you want to see it in better detail.
Mine is also a CL670Z and it looks like the horizontal drive setups shown in the brochures.
Do you know what year your lathe is? I think mine was 1971 give or take a year.
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I do not know year , am hoping someone here knows. you say yours a 71 , to me that’s pretty new. I hope mine is that age I assumed 50s or 60s
 
Thank you piper , just what I hoped to find out. I figured a 4 digit serial was pretty old as I’d see 5 digit ones. My lathe 1961. Good to know thank you very much I will save the list.
This is a better pic of the distance and the part over hang back , and is on 1+1/4” high box . I got the table with the lathe and believe they have been together quite a while.
This lathe had a three phase motor and the speed controller thing that takes 240 volts 1 phase and somehow runs 3 phase motor. I had a 120v 3/4hp 1 phase 1725rpm motor here and have put it on this now. Plain vanilla good enough for me. I saved the speed controller and motor. To left on wall is water line hurricane Irma.
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Sandbox said:
Mr Whoopee ! ***. You are the man I want.
I just bought a new tube of Shoe Goo to fix my sneakers the day before I got this lathe.
I don’t understand how to taper the smooth side of serpentine belt. Easy to grind ribbed side, the cord is on smooth side.
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I just sand down to the cord on each end. No taper, just a flat lap. Just don't damage the cord. The splice ends up a little thicker than the belt.
 
MrWhoopee said:
I just sand down to the cord on each end. No taper, just a flat lap. Just don't damage the cord. The splice ends up a little thicker than the belt.
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Do you sand the back of the belt? Grind ribs off both ends glue overlap clamp. Thanks for getting back to me.
 
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Sandbox said:
Do you sand the back of the belt? Grind ribs off both ends glue overlap clamp. Thanks for getting back to me.
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Sand the back on one end, the ribs on the other.
 
That is definitely not the same drive setup as I have or seen in the documents I downloaded which were dated 1966.
It might be that someone adapted a motor and countershaft from another lathe, hence the riser block.
Here are a couple of links that will take you down a rabbit hole of information

All kinds of info out there, from belt splicing to original catalogs

Save that 3 phase motor and VFD. There will be a time when you want it on the lathe again so you have infinite speed control.

Enjoy
 
piper184 said:
That is definitely not the same drive setup as I have or seen in the documents I downloaded which were dated 1966.
It might be that someone adapted a motor and countershaft from another lathe, hence the riser block.
Here are a couple of links that will take you down a rabbit hole of information

All kinds of info out there, from belt splicing to original catalogs

Save that 3 phase motor and VFD. There will be a time when you want it on the lathe again so you have infinite speed control.

Enjoy
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Thanks, the book I got with the lathe shows both this countershaft with 10k, and yours is on page before this. The VFD would complicate getting lathe up n running ,240 volt, and I would have to learn something new. I looked at the book for VFD and reminded me of trying to set a VCR , remember those?
Vintage Machine has a 1951 10K new first intro pamphlet 8 pages. The countershaft was “Close Coupled“ was one bragging point. It sat only couple inches behind headstock.
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