New Grizzly G0729 Mill...Finally!

Thanks Ray. I have found all sorts of little things wrong with it but the one that concerns me most right now is the loose spindle followed by the tightness in the table moving it to the right. I knew I wasn't buying a BP or anything even close, but I have literally had to go thru this thing and tighten up every nut and bolt on it. I discovered the power feed not working today was due to a loose nut on the outside of the right table hand wheel. Tightened it up and works like a charm again. So now if I can fix the other two issues I'll be all set until I decide to go into it deeper. I am also somewhat disappointed in the lack of concern with my two contacts with Tech Service. The only thing the guy did today was pull out an owners manual and read it to me regarding the power feed. I told him I had already read the manual and it didn't say squat about my specific issue. All he did was basically tell me to call back. Oh well.........


Rick
 
I got the same response they offered to send me a different mill but the problems will remain the same. If I had to do it over I would have just tore it down and re-assembled it like it should be just take one thing at a time look it over real well try and figure out where they went wrong or how it could be made better. Sometimes all it takes is spending a little more time keeping the tolerances tighter otherwise the mill just beats itself to death. You have the mill I wanted but could not afford at the time so I hope you can turn it into a nice machine I am sure you are well on your way good luck. Ray
 
Thanks Ray.....I feel a little bit better now. I really agonized for two plus years over which make and style mill to get. A ton of people I know that are in the trade all said Bridgeport but if that couldn't happen AT LEAST get a real knee mill. So that's what I did so now I have to see it thru or my wife will kill me!! I see a DRO in my future though.

Rick
 
Yea it sucks for sure man. But even with a used BP you might be tearing it all apart as well. Only thing aint been off my BP is the knee it's self and the head. And the head needs gone through I just aint doing it till I can do it all inside. Hope it all dont need it, but plane for the worst.

Unfortunatly you might need to pull the table. Try adjusting the gibs but I dont see it doing much. Not if it it's perfect every place but the end. If you make the end right then 90% will be sloppy possibly. But you could have a bur or chip stuck in the screw or a mushroom on the opposite side of the table on a flat or in the way.
 
Obviously there is a special socket or wrench that they use for adjusting the spindle nut. Are these sockets available somewhere? I tried to get some dimensions off the spindle nut itself, but it's buried in the spindle pulley making it difficult to get any accurate readings with the tools I have. I have to wonder in situations like this why they don't use a standard socket and locking tab instead of making it more difficult with notched round nuts. From what I can see this nut looks like it might be a left hand thread but I'm not completely sure on that because I can't see but a small amount of threads.

Rick
 
Seems you have two spanner nuts. One after the lower bearings and one after the uppers. No spec on the upper but the lower is listed as 30mm.
 
They say on your pdf that the spanner has been replaced with the one for the 728. I look at the 728 pdf and it simply say's discontinued.
 
Rick, You can make a spanner. I have done this for years with tube and pipe. As a newbie, however , it is interesting I have not seen a foolproof technique for reaching the proper preload on the ?tapered? bearings. I know how to do this on automotive applications, but on lathes the guys seem to wing it and feel for heat. The pure approach is a dial indicator reading but hard to achieve. As a lurker I'm beginning to think used asian is probably not more of a "kit" than new, if I could be guaranteed parts required for repair.
 
Visenfile: Well from my days as a line mechanic we used to set differential backlash usually at .005 to .00".. Never having worked on a milling spindle I would be shooting in the dark on proper pre-load. I am just guessing but waiting for heat to tell if you have proper pre-load sounds a bit "iffy", but what do I know. How do you adapt a "tube and pipe" to this type of situation? Thanks.....

Rick
 
you just mill the 4 tangs to fit the flats. I have ground sockets to fit spanner nuts among other things. They are just 45* apart so pretty easy. You can also buy a spanner socket in various sizes.
 
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