New G0709 is here!

[Slayer_MN1]

I finally took the plunge and bought my first lathe!

My main reason for making this purchase is to true actions, and barrel/chamber my own rifles. Hopefully I'll become proficient enough to start doing work for others as well. I have a good understanding of how the machine works and how to run it, but have very little experience actually running a lathe so this will be a big learning experience.



I have been picking up indicators and measuring tools here and there and I think I have most of what I'll need in that department. I haven't bought a single cutting tool yet as I just don't know what to get lol.

I'm wondering if some of you could offer advice as to what to get? I'm told that the Arthur Warner high speed insert tooling is great for beginners and provides a nice finish at lower speeds, if you suggest this what kits should I pick up to enable me to turn to diameter, thread, crown, and counterbore barrels?

http://www.arwarnerco.com/c-5-tool-kits.aspx

I'm looking at kit 18 (1/2" threader) but am unsure as to where to go from there?

thanks for any advice!

Steve

 

[dave2176]

I grind quite a bit of HSS for special shapes but for general cutting I use carbide inserts. Kennemetal top notch for external threading in size 2, separator style for parting, triangle for internal threads in different sizes to cover different bores. I also use left hand internal threading tools and cut with the lathe in reverse which makes blind threading a breeze. For general cutting select 1 or 2 styles like DCMT or CCMT so you don't have to stock so many inserts. Boring bars I like CCMT.

Dave

 

[tmarks11]

I'm wondering if some of you could offer advice as to what to get? I'm told that the Arthur Warner high speed insert tooling is great for beginners

I have a G0709 as well.

+++1 on ARR Warner. Everyone will tell you to learn how to grind HSS blanks (see the youtube link below). You should learn. And HSS blanks are far cheaper than the ARR Warner insert stuff. A $5 HSS blank will last you all year (and next). But there is a learning curve, and you finish is directly related to how good a job you do. Sometimes my HSS cuts nice, sometimes it doesn't...

I have this:
http://www.arwarnerco.com/p-15-kit-11-12-inch-turning-c-right-hand-left-hand.aspx

It allows you to use the 100° corner for general turning, so you get more use out of each insert. I wish they had a 5/8" shank (which is the largest you can use with the normal BXA tool holder), but 1/2" shank works.

You also will want a boring tool. Don't (absolutely don't) buy a cheap set of brazed carbide boring tools. I have one of these:
http://www.arwarnerco.com/p-17-kit-13-38-inch-boring-bar-c.aspx

Just a note: if you think you are going to be boring more than a couple of inches, than invest (correct word!) in indexable boring bar with a carbide shank. Flex is you enemy in boring, and carbide can make a world of difference. Such tooling is about double the cost.

For external threading, I just use a piece of HSS square stock, cut to a 60° corner. At $5 each, they go a long way, and the threading profile is easy to grind... here is a good youtube tutorial (he also has two more for grinding LH and RH tool bits):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jnmFUBpmEF0

Cut-off tool. Carbide beats HSS hands-down. But it is quite a bit more $$$ (#7 QCTP Holder + HSS blade = $35 +7 vs. Indexable Tool + Inserts = $150). I have an Iscar DGTR 16B-3D35 Do Grip that I really like that I picked up off ebay. The advantage is that this has a 5/8" shank, so you can use a normal #1 QCTP holder for it, rather than a specialized parting blade holder. It is a lot more rigid that HSS blade, and doesn't chatter when cutting. Downside is that it is limited to parting about 1.4" diameter.

Internal threading, I have a carbide tool (the AR Warner inserts are too expensive IMHO). I have one of the grizzly internal carbide threading tools, and it works great. Don't worry about something like this until you have a project that you need to thread that is larger than any of the taps you have. Tapping is way easier.

Don't jump into carbide inserts yet. You really have to run 1400-2000 rpm to get a good finish, with a deep DOC. I have some Kennametal 5/8" CNMG tools, I use those for roughing, and use HSS for the last 0.020". Buying carbide inserts takes a lot of research, because carbide grade, chip breaker, and coating all are tailored to the material you are cutting. Play around with HSS before you go there. Trust me, on the G0709, carbide will not give you a better finish than HSS. When you are ready to buy, carbidedepot.com is a good choice. ebay is a better one...

NOTE: did you already do the headstock break-in (see page 22 of the manual)? After you do that, check your pulleys. On the pulley on my motor, the key slide almost all the way out of the pulley; it is lose inside the keyway. I peened the edge to keep it in place, but eventually need to pull it off and fix the problem. Also, level your lathe (if you haven't done so). The cast iron stand on mine put the bed significantly out of level. I put machinery mounts on my, and the back right corner is extended about 3/4" more than any of the rest... and my concrete floor doesn't have a wave in it.

 

[Slayer_MN1]

Thanks for the reply, I haven't gotten to the break in just yet, I actually just ran power to my shop today.

I ended up getting the following tools from AR Warner to start with-

http://www.arwarnerco.com/p-12-kit-8-38-inch-turning-c-right-hand-left-hand-and-boring-bar.aspx

http://www.arwarnerco.com/p-19-kit-16-35-degree-profile-v-right-hand-left-hand.aspx

http://www.arwarnerco.com/p-22-kit-18-12-inch-threader-nv.aspx

I have some HSS blanks to play around with as well.

Hopefully I didn't do too bad in choosing my tool kits.

Can you use carbide inserts in the Warner tools? I tried a search for CCMW inserts and only the warner stuff comes up, I assume the W stands for Warner?

Steve

 

[tmarks11]

Can you use carbide inserts in the Warner tools? I tried a search for CCMW inserts and only the warner stuff comes up, I assume the W stands for Warner?

Look here for more info:
http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-insert-d.htm

CCMW
C = 80 degree diamond
C = 7º clearance angle
M = 0.002-.005 tolerance
W = 40-60° double countersink hole in middle (not Warner)

Here is a page full of CCMW carbide inserts (no guarantees they will fit your toolholder, not that that matters, because YOU DON"T WANT THEM! Single side inserts at $25-57 each? No thanks):
http://www.carbidedepot.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1976

And in reality, you won't want them to fit. You will want both carbide and HSS tooling, and fumbling around with insert changes to switch from one to the other would get old fast. I rough with carbide, switch to HSS for finishing or for light material removal (carbide doesn't do so well if you just need to take off 0.005-0.010").

Besides, you will want to get carbide tooling with a neutral clearance angle so the insert will be double sided, which gives you more cutting edges to use per insert (I use CNMG... the N=Neutral clearance angle). CCMW is a single sided insert (an 80º diamond only gives you 2 80º cutting edges, a double sided insert gives you four 80º cutting edges).

 

[ronboley]

Hey....now that you've had your G0709 for a few months what do you think of her? Good or bad experiences? What have you made on it?

Considering a G0709 or a PM1340GT so would like input.