New Clausing 6913 - Gear box engagement lever fixed!!!!

[Dhector]

Not trying to resurrect and old topic but I thought this would be better here than in the "What did you make today" since I made it 10 months ago or so.

Anyway my machine had a VFD on it when i got and the original owner had made the lower reeves drive sheave stationary(which I would find out later was because it was worn out) about mid range in the sheave. This is what I started with. Worked for a while, then kept breaking. See post 178.



1st attempt to make it work.



Made this brass sleeve to tighten the slop in the heavily worn sheaves. Made the wider key too.



Built a bracket to limit(not downward pressure, just wouldnt allow it to raise) to try and take some of the vibration out I was getting. There is a bearing on the shaft that the bracket rode on.



Needless to say, It didnt fix it. It was a LOT better but it still kept breaking the clutch where I installed that shaft.

Finally got fed up with all the issues with the clutch breaking, wobbling etc and started this project. At least the fix got me through making a new pulley.
If anybody sees anything that looks like its incorrect please let me know. Im self taught so if the tool angle is wrong or the floor is painted the wrong color let me know so I can remedy it.
Im pretty sure it was 4140(which doesnt mean a whole lot to me but thats what they said it was when I bought it) All I know is I couldnt take very heavy cuts on it. It was pretty hard is all I know. Took me a long time to do it.







I tapped the end of the motor shaft for a bolt to hold it all together. I made a "cap" to cover the end of the shaft and allow the bolt to tighten correctly. I had a machine shop cut the key way(lets be honest here, I didnt even know what broaching was until I read on this forum!!) I drilled three holes in the bottom of the "V" groove and tapped for set screws and jam screws. I installed everything and have been using it for approx 10 months or so. Works great. Eliminated all vibration from the bottom. Made the machine super quiet too. Clutch/brake functions as it is suppose to. And the best thing, I had fun, and saved 880 bucks!!!!

 

[rwm]

Nice work.
Also, I like floors that don't show blood stains.
Robert

 

[jdedmon91]

Not trying to resurrect and old topic but I thought this would be better here than in the "What did you make today" since I made it 10 months ago or so.

Anyway my machine had a VFD on it when i got and the original owner had made the lower reeves drive sheave stationary(which I would find out later was because it was worn out) about mid range in the sheave. This is what I started with. Worked for a while, then kept breaking. See post 178.
View attachment 281622


1st attempt to make it work.

View attachment 281623

Made this brass sleeve to tighten the slop in the heavily worn sheaves. Made the wider key too.

View attachment 281625

Built a bracket to limit(not downward pressure, just wouldnt allow it to raise) to try and take some of the vibration out I was getting. There is a bearing on the shaft that the bracket rode on.

View attachment 281624

Needless to say, It didnt fix it. It was a LOT better but it still kept breaking the clutch where I installed that shaft.

Finally got fed up with all the issues with the clutch breaking, wobbling etc and started this project. At least the fix got me through making a new pulley.
If anybody sees anything that looks like its incorrect please let me know. Im self taught so if the tool angle is wrong or the floor is painted the wrong color let me know so I can remedy it.
Im pretty sure it was 4140(which doesnt mean a whole lot to me but thats what they said it was when I bought it) All I know is I couldnt take very heavy cuts on it. It was pretty hard is all I know. Took me a long time to do it.

View attachment 281629

View attachment 281643

View attachment 281644

I tapped the end of the motor shaft for a bolt to hold it all together. I made a "cap" to cover the end of the shaft and allow the bolt to tighten correctly. I had a machine shop cut the key way(lets be honest here, I didnt even know what broaching was until I read on this forum!!) I drilled three holes in the bottom of the "V" groove and tapped for set screws and jam screws. I installed everything and have been using it for approx 10 months or so. Works great. Eliminated all vibration from the bottom. Made the machine super quiet too. Clutch/brake functions as it is suppose to. And the best thing, I had fun, and saved 880 bucks!!!!

It’s special when you make your own parts


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Dhector]

Nice work.
Also, I like floors that don't show blood stains.
Robert

Ive had a little blood from doing but so far nothing serious! Im pretty carefull. I kind of appreciate my arms and fingers!

It’s special when you make your own parts


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have fun doing it but you are right, the pure satifaction of making your own parts is amazing!!!

 

[markba633csi]

Why is it that people who know little about lathes always get the great deals? LOL
Never happens to me and I know only a little more than little
Mark

 

[machPete99]

Text deleted, looks like your questions were answered earlier...

 

[Dhector]

Why is it that people who know little about lathes always get the great deals? LOL
Never happens to me
Mark

I dont know but I'm glad I was the lucky one here. I don't know for sure, but if I hadnt had a shot at it to purchase, my gut feeling is this thing would have probably ended up in the iron pile. Since it was an estate(not an estate sale though) I think the guy in charge just wanted it gone and I happened to be the lucky one.

 

[citizendefenseusa]

I got the gearbox engagement lever fixed. I would like to thank all that gave input and helped out with this. The feed screw functions correctly now!!!!!!View attachment 232939 The 2 pins in this picture I made from a Harley Davidson jackshaft gear bolt The cradle lock spring hook(the round part next to the lever and pins with has 2 holes in it) They were 1/8 in diameter but the pins were damaged and so were the holes so I drilled them to 9/64 I also drilled the cover holes as well.
View attachment 232940
View attachment 232941
View attachment 232942 Over riding clutch
View attachment 232943 This spring pin was missing and its what keeps the "gear cradle" from falling below the gear on the end of the engagement assembly(internal) and not allowing it to move the cradle) See pic 11 and 12(2) . Edit- It also has to be cut off a little to allow the cover to go on.
View attachment 232946 The spring I was having issues with.
View attachment 232948 Pic 6 is the start of winding the spring, move this 180 degrees at least(it will work at 180, I did mine 360 degres and it seems to be ok there to)
View attachment 232953 This is after rotating 180 degrees, go another 180 if you like.
View attachment 232954 While holding the TENSIONED spring in this location to install the cover.
View attachment 232955 Install the cover. Install the jam nut(I used a lock nut, not a nylok and I put it in my little 3950 and made it shorter(so the lock part of the nut gets to the threads on the shaft. Do not tighten it completely, it needs to be snug but allow everything to rotate freely.
View attachment 232956 Gear engagement inside the box. This pic shows how the cradle can fall down too far and the engagement assembly cant pick it back up. This was caused by the spring pin being gone. I am going to try and get a close up of the gear mesh and start another post.

View attachment 232959 Gear mesh problem when cradle drops down too far.

Thanks for the pictures, that helped identify my machine's problem (6913). I was able to rig it a bit since my gear engagement lever goes past 12 o'clock and does not lock in place, so the cradle gear set falls down like you mentioned. After a lot of horsing around with it finally got a 2-person setup to raise it up while I slid the gear engagement lever assembly in and meshed the sector gear in the 5-o'clock/locked position which should be engaged (and verified it does engage properly). When the handle goes past 12-o'clock, the sector gear portion falls off the gear engagement assembly, so for now, I marked the max rotation so it doesn't lose engagement when it is in the disengaged position. I can see that my gear engagement handle has been rigged, as well, so I didn't want another side project since I was seeing that this was the primary root cause of my power feed never having worked since I bought it. I did find a fair amount of metal fragments from the end of the cradle gear, it appears (hard to see down in there), but I got a lot cleaned out. My torsion spring housing doesn't have the same cutout you show on yours, where you mentioned the roll/spring pin that was missing. Mine doesn't have a cutout, so I can't see a pin.

 

[Dhector]

Thanks for the pictures, that helped identify my machine's problem (6913). I was able to rig it a bit since my gear engagement lever goes past 12 o'clock and does not lock in place, so the cradle gear set falls down like you mentioned. After a lot of horsing around with it finally got a 2-person setup to raise it up while I slid the gear engagement lever assembly in and meshed the sector gear in the 5-o'clock/locked position which should be engaged (and verified it does engage properly). When the handle goes past 12-o'clock, the sector gear portion falls off the gear engagement assembly, so for now, I marked the max rotation so it doesn't lose engagement when it is in the disengaged position. I can see that my gear engagement handle has been rigged, as well, so I didn't want another side project since I was seeing that this was the primary root cause of my power feed never having worked since I bought it. I did find a fair amount of metal fragments from the end of the cradle gear, it appears (hard to see down in there), but I got a lot cleaned out. My torsion spring housing doesn't have the same cutout you show on yours, where you mentioned the roll/spring pin that was missing. Mine doesn't have a cutout, so I can't see a pin.

I wish it wasnt so many years ago I did all this so maybe my memory would be sharper on it than it is now!!! This forum loves pictures, maybe take some and post them and someone here can help you. From what I found back then, the roll pin I put in stops mine at just about 12 o clock(11:55 probably) Its worked great all these years, never had another issue(maybe its common on them????)

 

[Dhector]

Here are some pics I just took. The 1st pic you can see the roll pin is pretty much at the 9 O clock position and the handle is down in the "engaged" position. 2nd pic handle is disengaged and you can see the pin at 9 also. My thoughts is if that is missing, you will have to remove that handle assembly and install one.

Edit reason- Pics posted from phone, writing done on pc.