That hole eliminates the stress riser.How many people actually have an unbroken brake plate? I decided to give silver brazing a try. This is a bad design. The hole creates a stress riser, guaranteeing that they will break there.
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Got the new motor and VFD temporarily wired up and programmed. The idler pulley seemed to spin smoothly, but when I put a belt on it made a terrible rumbling noise. Gee, I wonder why?
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So, do I sleeve this one too, or do you think Loctite retaining compound might take up the slack? I have some 648, but I think I'd need 680. I'd have to install the shaft and other bearing, squirt some compound, then push this one on and hope it all lined up properly. I don't know if I'd ever get it apart again, either.
That hole eliminates the stress riser.
But it is a bad design, mine broke there too. I had it nickel welded.
I sleeved mine. And used perm loctite on the sleeve. I made a plug larger than the ID of the cleaned up pulley. I heated the pulley and pressed it in. Then bore it out. Then pressed the new bearing in.
After using this mill a while, the VFD seems like a good idea. I didn't want one, but now would like it.
That hole eliminates the stress riser.
But it is a bad design, mine broke there too. I had it nickel welded.
Yep, it's just my opinion.Agree to disagree. What I want to do is clamp it up to a rotary table and cut that little hole and slot out with a 1/2" end mill, and traverse at least 1/2" both sides of where it was. Then it would almost be a real flexure. My wife doesn't know I need a rotary table to go with my mill yet .
Yep, it's just my opinion.
Did the silver soldering work?
That makes sense. I don't use the top speed, not yet at least. I haven't cut anything with that small a cutter that needs it, but I do find myself in the mid range often and low range quite a bit . The VFD would be great for tapping.Oh, I forgot to mention that I'm planning to restrict the VFD speed range on the mill, so that it really just gives overlap between belt changes.