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Need to wire a 50A RV circuit.
- Thread starter Jim F
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2016
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- 1,953
Need to know more. Most 3 pin RV cords are only 30 amp 120 volt. Most 50 amp plugs are 220 volt. so you are missing the other leg to make the 220 volts. If you have something like the old 3 prong 220 volt dryer socket, then you need to look at what the ground wire is attached to at the box. and see if the wire is attached to the ground, or neutral bus. and add the other. Post a pic of what you have, and someone more knowledgeable then me will more then likely jump in and help.
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- Sep 24, 2020
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Going from the old 3 wire dryer type to a new RV type, 50A
If you was using 3 wire dryer for 50 am, 240 vac you were .... that is why changing...
You need a 4 wire cord and also open panel in rv to confirm safety ground and neutral are separated.
The generator side of transfer switch if you have one will be bonded together as generator is power source.
Range type connector, they do make marine and better grade, buy good one.
Visit this site, irv2.com as they have everything you need related to rv.
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You need a 4 wire cord and also open panel in rv to confirm safety ground and neutral are separated.
The generator side of transfer switch if you have one will be bonded together as generator is power source.
Range type connector, they do make marine and better grade, buy good one.
Visit this site, irv2.com as they have everything you need related to rv.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
- Joined
- Sep 24, 2020
- Messages
- 1,907
Better explanation.
The shed has an old 3 wire dryer type of receptacle for 220V, they want to use that circuit to plug in the new RV's 50A cord, which is a 4 wire.
I am used to working with 12VDC stuff, havent done a lot of 110V/220V work in a long time.
The shed has an old 3 wire dryer type of receptacle for 220V, they want to use that circuit to plug in the new RV's 50A cord, which is a 4 wire.
I am used to working with 12VDC stuff, havent done a lot of 110V/220V work in a long time.
Much better spot.
Easy, the dryer outlet should be L1, L2 and safety ground by many may be neutral as dryers often are located next to washer so water pipe is handy for the ground.
You first need to determine what the not line wire is connected to.
Open the outlet and look to see if white or bare.
If bare should be safety but do not get on it.
If white you need to trace it.
Open load center and check both busses and after determine the wire.
You will need one more wire as you only have 3.
If your wire is bare you need to pull a white neutral, if white and connected as safety you need to pull green and move the white.
If not sure or have not done this type of work seek local help, many retired electricians, visit senior vendor or just hire it done.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
Easy, the dryer outlet should be L1, L2 and safety ground by many may be neutral as dryers often are located next to washer so water pipe is handy for the ground.
You first need to determine what the not line wire is connected to.
Open the outlet and look to see if white or bare.
If bare should be safety but do not get on it.
If white you need to trace it.
Open load center and check both busses and after determine the wire.
You will need one more wire as you only have 3.
If your wire is bare you need to pull a white neutral, if white and connected as safety you need to pull green and move the white.
If not sure or have not done this type of work seek local help, many retired electricians, visit senior vendor or just hire it done.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2018
- Messages
- 6,550
I am not sure why he would need a neutral wire, unless part of the RV circuit is peeling 110V off at some point. If it were a 230v appliance, you would have no white wire and would not need one. As long as the appliance is grounded to prevent shock. The ground should not carry current ever, unless in a fault condition. In a 220v appliance outlet, the white does not participate at all (mine are all folded over with wire nuts), as the L1 and L2 carry all of the load.
Find out what's going on in your RV panel and determine if a neutral is needed to support 110V circuits. If it's wired like a house panel, it probably does need a neutral, because it is a sub-panel and not a clothes dryer. This would be a special case for wiring of 220v circuits.
Find out what's going on in your RV panel and determine if a neutral is needed to support 110V circuits. If it's wired like a house panel, it probably does need a neutral, because it is a sub-panel and not a clothes dryer. This would be a special case for wiring of 220v circuits.
I think the reason they went to 4 wire was that some appliances had small 120 volt loads that should use the neutral as return. Without the neutral they used the ground which should not be used for anything other than a safety. Other than that, neutral and ground lead to the same place ultimately.
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2016
- Messages
- 1,953
All the RV's I have dealt with, everything is 120 volt. generally they have the two air conditioners each on a separate side of the 240 volt plug. Unless it has a washer & dryer, I have not dealt with a dryer in an RV, they might be 240 volt.
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- Feb 13, 2017
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Legally, the RV is a "sub-main", same as a mobile home. There is one, and only one ground point. . . the main entrance. The circuit requires 4 wires. The loads may all be 120 volts, but they are balanced across the 240 lines with neutral return.
Practically, it's a matter of what works and what doesn't at youir location. I personally have a number of grounds about the premises. I reside in fairly close proximity to electrically "stirred" steel and electric furnaces. They call it a mini-mill. . . Wireless communications come and go depending on how wet the ground is. With an underground stream close by, things get wierd quite often.
http://www.hudsontelcom.com/uploads/ShopElex.pdf gives the subject some slight coverage. So, legally I would say to run separate ground and neutral. Practically, if I was doing it for myself, I would make sure the neutral was insulated all the way back to the service and sink a ground in the vicinity of where the RV is to be kept.
A proper ground rod is some eight feet long. They used to be solid copper but in the last "few" years have become copper "clad" steel. A solid copper rod 5/8 inch diameter costs an arm and a leg, and rights to your first-born.
My advice between legal and practical is not advice, just a comment.
.
Practically, it's a matter of what works and what doesn't at youir location. I personally have a number of grounds about the premises. I reside in fairly close proximity to electrically "stirred" steel and electric furnaces. They call it a mini-mill. . . Wireless communications come and go depending on how wet the ground is. With an underground stream close by, things get wierd quite often.
http://www.hudsontelcom.com/uploads/ShopElex.pdf gives the subject some slight coverage. So, legally I would say to run separate ground and neutral. Practically, if I was doing it for myself, I would make sure the neutral was insulated all the way back to the service and sink a ground in the vicinity of where the RV is to be kept.
A proper ground rod is some eight feet long. They used to be solid copper but in the last "few" years have become copper "clad" steel. A solid copper rod 5/8 inch diameter costs an arm and a leg, and rights to your first-born.
My advice between legal and practical is not advice, just a comment.
.