Need some ideas, help adapting a drill press

Stop with the large drill. It will not be a good match to that table.

Instead look for Dremel size tool but something with stout bearings and continuous running.

It will do better to that table work.



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The machine you are starting with does not have the rigidity to handle what you are trying to accomplish. Stick with a Dremel sized motor or maybe a 1/4" drill motor. Forget milling.

I saw the progress you made. I am sorry to say that I think your work is wasted as it will not perform satisfactorily.

Why didn't someone put the kibosh on this project before OP had so much time, effort an probably money invested? tq60 and Matthew sx seem to be the only ones that offered common sense.

Yes, I do expect to get a lot of hate mail over this.
 
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The machine you are starting with does not have the rigidity to handle what you are trying to accomplish. Stick with a Dremel sized motor or maybe a 1/4" drill motor. Forget milling.

I saw the progress you made. I am sorry to say that I think your work is wasted as it will not perform satisfactorily.

Why didn't someone put the kibosh on this project before OP had so much time, effort an probably money invested? tq60 and Matthew sx seem to be the only ones that offered common sense.

Yes, I do expect to get a lot of hate mail over this.
Sometimes the truth hurts.

Sometimes people only learn by doing.

This community is open to all kinds of machines and projects. For the most part we do our best to help with guidance that will enable folks to achieve their goals. When those goals appear to be unattainable we try to help folks adjust their goals to align with what they have available.

Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't, but at least we try to be nice about it.

Yes, a Dremel is about all that is likely to work with this device. But, hopefully the OP will continue to participate here and maybe even post up some videos of the project running.

JOhn
 
Yes its still in the running, The eye protection is always on even when I doing light jobs.
Not got the time at the mo to go any further with it + Im waiting for some more parts to arrive so I can put together the speed controller + as its direct drive Im looking for a flexible coupling that can withstand the power of the motor without twisting its self to pieces, any suggestions?
 
A couple of other parts arrived, Ive started on the table as you can see, Ive also got a pulley for the quill so maybe another plan as for drive motor



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Cable drives are a rarity; but have been utilized. Best I know was Kearney & Trecker Tri-D Milling Attachment. It's far too stout and long for your build, I have one, probably weighs over 10 pounds on it's own. Bosch shows listings too, but seem out of production.
There could be companies that build to order; a casing, couplers, core, lubrication and seals. The challenge won't be spinning the core, it will be the cutter not loading up and kinking it. If an automotive speedometer could just transmitting a 'signal'......
Hard part will be twisting into your build based on physical size. I'd consider belt transmission.
 
The machine you are starting with does not have the rigidity to handle what you are trying to accomplish........snip............tq60 and Matthew sx seem to be the only ones that offered common sense.
Yes, I do expect to get a lot of hate mail over this.
I wouldn't expect hate mail, but as said, the truth hurts.
I believe purpose of this forum supports any tier of experience; it's not productive to label something a failure or kill it off beforehand, despite
'our' better judgement. Taken with sufficient salt, critiques should guide the builder, and allow keener observations when it runs, to characterize
whatever weaknesses become evident.
The rigidity issue is more than viable. That round column will go harmonic instantly. A single bearing regardless variety and grade is inadequate support for a spindle, especially subject to side loads.
On the other hand, look at who succeeded by initiative; followed by determination and repeated experimentation......those two elements are the best teachers of all.
 
As said before, I know you guys with big professional machines will laugh at this and also think, what is he doing, is just a project, it might work, it might fail.

Ive seen a tiny emco unimat 3 milling machines, similar to this:


eating through steel very slowly, this rig I have is about 3 times as big, it stands 2.5 foot tall, it was designed to take a 43mm European large hand drill, so I cant see why with a few mods its not going to mill plastic or aluminium.

If I could go and buy a used milling machine, I would, problem is where I live, there isnt any, everything has to be transported and with the price of the fuel its crazy prices for the transport, I was lucky to get my "toy" emco compact 8 lathe here

Ill keep at it and see how we get go, ALL suggestions welcome

Thanks
 
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I have a small servo motor like this that I’m working on for my mill/drill project. It may be viable for your project and the price is good.


John
 
This is still in the pipeline just on hold at mo, I hope I'll have some time this summer to finish it, we've built a melting pot so we can pour aluminium to rough size and then turn it down on lathe, Ive got another idea to hold the quill, I hope it works, if not back to the drawing board
 
I’ll add its a good thing you decided not to use the old school drill.

I collect old drills like that and I’ll tell ya if that sucker jams up in a work piece it will twist that mount into a pretzel before it breaks something off and goes rattling across the floor. The “hold” button on thise also doesn’t “pop out” like a modern drill will if you drop or bang it. Once the trigger is locked on those, its locked until you unlock it. Thats what causes serious carnage once it grabs: the gearing is so low and the throttle lock on means if the drill in the chuck isn’t turning, the body of the drill itself WILL be turning…

They’re nicknamed “wrist breakers” for a good reason...
 
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