Need some help reading and understanding this electrical diagram

Then get the list of the drivers you have on it. Do you know how to do it?
 
tim81 said:
Try to contact the vendor and ask for schematics if possible.. also look for burn marks or any discoloration in the solder in the legs of the elements where they connect to the board
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Look on page 1 . My original post has the schematic
 
tim81 said:
That is not a usable schematic. :(
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That is all the mfg supplies. The replacement Varistor will be here next week, and I will replace the bad one and then try the power feed. As far as the bootable USB is concerned, I already have etcher and flashed Linux Cinamon. I have 2 new USP drives coming Sunday and I will try downloading and etching it again.
 
ltlvt said:
This is the schematic for my Al/CE 500D power feed for my X axis mill. Although I have 2 new power feeds I bought from Vevor I paid in excess of $400 USD for this one when I bought the PM 833T mill from Quality Machine. No fault of the supplier I made the stupid mistake of plugging it into 220 volt and it is a 110 volt unit. Just a pop and I unplugged it and at that moment I realized I screwed up. Now I am trying to repair it. I have taken it apart and did a first look visual inspection of the inside including the pc board. Nothing visually that I can see got burned. It does have a circuit breaker that I would like to verify is working or not working before I go further. In order to get the breaker out it clipped in but I would like to check it in position before I go to the trouble of removing it and replacing it. But I can't get the shift lever off that controls the direction of travel. So the help I am requesting is how to remove the shift handle. I have already removed the speed control pot knob and also removed the set screw in the shift lever. Any ideas would be certainly appreciated. The next issue I need help with is understanding the schematic for the unit. I understand L-1 N for neutral and the upside-down Christmas tree means ground or Earth. But the rest of the components are unnamed and Greek to me. So any help in identifying components in the schematic will be a great value to me. Thanks in advance for any help on either issue. One of my goals this winter is to learn how to troubleshoot PC boards and therefore repair some items such as my Snap-On Mig welder. Tomorrow, I aim to install a new SSD hard drive and RAM in a Dell Notebook of mine. And boot it up with Linux Mint USB disc.
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The device marked by a vertical box with a diagonal line through it is likely a transient voltage suppressor. If size for the 120V line, it would certainly pop at 240V. (It will liike like a ceramic disk with two radial leads.). The input rectifier diodes (shown as only small horizontal lines) might also have been blown, also the scr's. Try replacing the MOV (transient suppressor) first and see if if works. You could use the ohmmeter range of a handheld multimeter to test the diodes and scrs.(unplugged, of course). It they show shorted in both directions, they are blown.
Craig (retired EE)
 
k7cej said:
The device marked by a vertical box with a diagonal line through it is likely a transient voltage suppressor. If size for the 120V line, it would certainly pop at 240V. (It will liike like a ceramic disk with two radial leads.). The input rectifier diodes (shown as only small horizontal lines) might also have been blown, also the scr's. Try replacing the MOV (transient suppressor) first and see if if works. You could use the ohmmeter range of a handheld multimeter to test the diodes and scrs.(unplugged, of course). It they show shorted in both directions, they are blown.
Craig (retired EE)
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Thanks. Really appreciate the input.
 
k7cej said:
The device marked by a vertical box with a diagonal line through it is likely a transient voltage suppressor. If size for the 120V line, it would certainly pop at 240V. (It will liike like a ceramic disk with two radial leads.). The input rectifier diodes (shown as only small horizontal lines) might also have been blown, also the scr's. Try replacing the MOV (transient suppressor) first and see if if works. You could use the ohmmeter range of a handheld multimeter to test the diodes and scrs.(unplugged, of course). It they show shorted in both directions, they are blown.
Craig (retired EE)
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He could post a pic of the pcb front and back and it would be very helpful
 
tim81 said:
He could post a pic of the pcb front and back and it would be very helpful
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If you would go back to page 3 you will see the pictures that you requested earlier. (front and back of PC board) I can see them if you cannot see them let me know and I will post them again.
 
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