Need some Atlas info please

[gramps1951]

I have a chance to pick up an old Atlas. It is in the hands of a second owner and needs some cleaning and TLC. It seems to be a hybrid though. In all appearances it is a 10D V36 but it has a power crossfeed which I think was on the 10F. Things feel "reasonably" tight and there are no damaged teeth in the drive or change gears. It comes with a full set of change gears, steady rest, two 3-jaw and two 4-jaw chucks, face plate and a dog and live center and it all is on an original Atlas metal cabinet with thick wood top. The guy wants $1000 and I have included some photos.
Any pointers would be appreciated. I would like to buy it to restore in my spare time and possibly keep but I don't want to toss money away. Not a lot of lathes come up in our area so this one caught my eye. Thanks for any opinions anyone wants to offer!

 

[AR1911]

My advice would be to pass on that, unless you are in the middle of a machine tool desert.
Here in N Texas that would be a $500 lathe, tops, and plenty of people looking for them.
It has no quickchange gear box, which drops the value a lot.

But, if you must:
I see no power crossfeed.
That little Left/Right box on the left end of the leadscrew is very fragile, often broken inside, and expensive.
Make sure it is good, take the cover off.
Make sure it has all the change gears.
It better have lots of tooling and accessories.

Good luck

 

[swatson144]

It seems a bit over priced unles it has lots of tooling included. The atlas lathes often have the problem of doing "pin jobs" short work on a small section of the bed. This often caused a lot of where in a short section of the ways. If you can I'd recommend carrying a good heavy straight edge with you to inspect it. move the carriage all the way forward and look for light under the straight edge when laid edge on the ways. After you decide the ways are still flat then start looking at tooling and full complement of gearing.

Steve

 

[12bolts]

Gramps,
It is going to come down to you knowing the availability of lathes in your area. I too live in an area where machinery does'nt come up very often, and I would pay $1k for that lathe. It should come with a bit of extra tooling unless he is just moving it off his yard to make room for another lathe that he want to keep all the goodies for.
Check for chuck keys to suit all the chucks, run all the jaws all the way in and check they meet up at least fairly well, then run them all the way out and check for damaged teeth, check the scroll gear in the 3 jaws, check each worm in the 4 jaws. Back lash in the cross and compound slides. Check it in many spots as most lathes get worn in one area more than another. Run the saddle right up to the headstock and tighten the carriage lock so that it drags a bit. Now crank the saddle down the bed. It will probably tighten up a bit as you move away, how much will depend on what you think is fair wear for its age. Check the serial # match on the tailstock. QC gearbox is better, but for home hobby use change wheels are ok if you dont plan on doing a lot of threading. Lack of power feed on the saddle can be got around in various ways but the cross slide is another problem altogether. I'm not familiar with the left/right lever box but a reversing banjo would be an easy adaptation if there were terminal problems in there. The cabinet is a big plus.

Cheers Phil

 

[pdentrem]

It does have a power cross feed! It is the round knob under the cross slide handle.

I had the same setup. Sold it for 800. It was a hybrid as well but not Babbitt bearing like that one. Mine was a 10D24 but with a 10F saddle like what you have there. Gears are easy to get. What you have there is a 10D18. The distance between centers not the length of the bed sets the size.
I sold mine with 3 and 4 jaw, non factory steady rest, some tooling, 4 way tool post, and production cross slide, complete set of gears for standard and metric threads, there should be 2 96 tooth gears in that set.

Where is the motor and power switch? Bargaining point right there!

For inspection I would take along a straight edge and micrometer. Check the thickness of the ways in frt of the chuck and at the far end. Likely a fair bit of taper. You can compare the ways under the headstock vs under the carriage. Should be .375" if not ground.

The traversing gearbox is not delicate but the two gears in it can be. Check the play in the spindle bearings. It can be tighten by removing a shim or shims. That is if they are still there under the caps. Check the leadscrew in the first foot or so for worn thread. It just means more care when cutting threads.

This is just a start. I had mine for 20 yrs. bought it for 1000 on a home built stand and not much tooling.

 

[gramps1951]

My advice would be to pass on that, unless you are in the middle of a machine tool desert.
Here in N Texas that would be a $500 lathe, tops, and plenty of people looking for them.
It has no quickchange gear box, which drops the value a lot.

But, if you must:
I see no power crossfeed.
That little Left/Right box on the left end of the leadscrew is very fragile, often broken inside, and expensive.
Make sure it is good, take the cover off.
Make sure it has all the change gears.
It better have lots of tooling and accessories.

Good luck

Thanks for the input. It does have power cross feed. That silver knob under the cross slide gets pulled out to engage it. It came with what I listed and the 8" Skinner B-106 4-jaw is in excellent condition and will be sold immediately to lower my cost. I don't need a large 4 jaw like that on a lathe this size!

 

[12bolts]

Where is the motor and power switch? Bargaining point right there!

Yeah I missed that one! Good bargaining point but an easy fix if you do get it. Good chance to fit a VFD and motor from scratch.

Cheers Phil

 

[SamIAm]

Gramps,

I just bought mine it was a 10x42 babbit head unit. I knew nothing about babbit vs timken. In the end I swapped out the head stock for the timken setup
meaning more $$ (not that that one has problems) Also, with my purchase I got a loot of tooling. prob worth more then the lathe it self.
Mine had a QC gear box too. i paid 500 bucks for my entire setup....lucky for me it was all with it.

So from my perspective 1k sounds a little steep. considering what more $$ you might have to pour in. but on the other hand if you can afford it and
are looking for a project then I say go for it. Their are lots of atlas parts available so no matter whats wrong with it if any you will be certain to get parts.

my 2cents...
Sam

 

[Uncle Buck]

I bought this machine as you see it heavily tooled at an auction in 1995 for $1000.00. Before the internet a lot of guys (me included) gave 1K for machines like you are talking about , and in fact I did myself! I cleaned repainted and adjusted my old manual gear babbit headstoick then sold it to another guy for the same 1K I paid for it cover this machine. The internet has taught a lot of guys like me a lot about used machinery values. Onl you can decide if the machine is worth that to you.

 

[gramps1951]

I have an Atlas 10F that I paid $1000 for a few months back but I'd sell it for $500 to get half the $1000 I'd pay you for this Craftsman!!! That currently is a gorgeous machine. Mine has potential and being in an area where they don't come up often I jumped on it knowing the potential with a little time and effort. You are correct when you say the buyer is the only one who can decide the true value based on his or her circumstances and opinion.

I bought this machine as you see it heavily tooled at an auction in 1995 for $1000.00. Before the internet a lot of guys (me included) gave 1K for machines like you are talking about , and in fact I did myself! I cleaned repainted and adjusted my old manual gear babbit headstoick then sold it to another guy for the same 1K I paid for it cover this machine. The internet has taught a lot of guys like me a lot about used machinery values. Onl you can decide if the machine is worth that to you.