Interesting that the ABB manual does not show an example of 240 VAC 1 Ph wiring.
I do not run shielded input wiring to either of my drives. Neither do I use an input choke. These are common in industrial applications where there is already lots of electrical noise.
For the 240V 1 Ph input power wiring (breaker panel to VFD input), you only need 3 conductors: L1, L2 and Ground (green lead in the US).
The drive does not use the "neutral" lead which would deliver 120 VAC. If the cable you have contains a black, white, and green wire, put a wrap of electrical tape on each end of the white lead to signal that it is not actually the neutral lead - may help someone in the future.
Single phase power goes into the drive on L1 and N.
(I don't know why they call it N, it is actually L2 of the 240V circuit. Westinghouse uses this same N lettering convention. I think they are reserving the _2 designations for the drive outputs)
In reality, it may not make a difference since all three of the 3 Ph leads go into a 3 phase rectifier. With single phase power, one of the rectifier legs is not used and all of the power comes in on two rectifier legs. It could be that the 1 Ph model does not even have one of the rectifier legs - in which case there might not even be a terminal on the unused leg.
I recommend a manual, safety disconnect switch (fused or unfused) near the machine - especially if the breaker box is a long way off. You can get one at a home improvement store for about $30. It allows you to leave the drive powered down when you are not in the shop. Also keeps visitors (and kids) from starting a machine if they start pushing buttons. The disconnect will accept a padlock if you need that.
For the 3Ph output wiring (VFD to motor), you need 4 conductors: U2, V2, W2 and a Green lead ground. If you don't have the sheet metal "cable clamp" with your drive for ground connection, then use a grounding lug in the drive enclosure. Its important to have the green (chassis ground) continuous from the breaker box, to the drive, to the motor. This keeps the lathe frame from becoming "hot" in the event of an electrical failure (it forces the breaker to trip). For a 3 hp drive, I think you want 12 ga or heavier. I like stranded wire if there is going to be a flexible cable or conduit with motion, but solid is easier to work with if the conduit is fixed. The length of wire between the drive and motor can be a problem if it starts getting beyond 50 feet or so. Shorter is better. 6 to 10 feet should be no problem. I like to use SO cable (or one of the variants) for this link. Where I live you can get 12 ga four conductor SO cable by the foot at Home Depot. Remember that you do not want any switches, disconnects, or contactors between the VFD and the motor - it should be a direct connection from VFD terminal to motor terminal.
Once you are up and running - if the motor runs the wrong direction you have two choices:
- Find the reverse parameter in the drive setup logic and change it
- Switch any two of the 3 phase wires at the VFD output terminals (preserves the correct direction in drive logic)
One last thing to fret over is the
time since manufacture. ABB says that the internal capacitors need to be reformed if the drive has been in storage for more than a year. For storage times of two years or less, the drive takes care of itself when it is powered up. If the storage time is more than two years, ABB has a quirky procedure to go through which requires a separate, adjustable voltage power supply. There is a code on the drive that gives its manufacture date to determine the storage time for a new drive. See:
http://www05.abb.com/global/scot/sc...$file/Guide_for_capacitor_reforming_Rev_G.pdf
to read the details. I have never had to do this. If you find that the drive has actually been in storage for more that two years, you many want to take it to a motor shop where they will have the equipment to do this - I expect it only takes a few minutes.
You're getting close.
Terry S.
