My Weekend Project

Rick Leslie said:
You would have to have a custom reamer ground or grind one yourself
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Maybe. You could use a combination of reamers by carefully controlling depth. It's been done that way, put it that way. Custom reamer is, or course, quickest, easiest, and most repeatable, but expensive. So there are workarounds.
Rick Leslie said:
I personally like the 357 AR on the AR15 chassis better as a quick handling brush gun, but the 444 would be the same on the AR10.
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Never thought of it that way, but I think you're right. My goal is an AR15 in 44SuperAutomag (2.4" OAL) and an AR10 in .444Marlin Rimless. I figure that'll be a few more months of work. Got most all the parts, already.
Rick Leslie said:
We may need to start a new thread for these AR wildcat builds so we don't muddy this thread.
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I dunno. It's not horrible muddy, is it? After all, the whole thread started with an AR project. And besides, all these wildcat ideas is where a lot of machining happens.

Well... and a lot of scrap. But I try not to think about that ;-)

Wrat
 
Good points Wrat. I'd love to see the builds of the "15" in a 44 Super Automag as well as a "10" in .444 Marlin Rimless so let's get them going. I'm waiting for pictures already. :D;)

-Ron
 
Forgive my ignorance, but if you use -o6 cases to make a rimless .444 (and use the .444s reloading dies) why would you need a custom reamer? Wouldn't a .444 Marlin reamer work?
 
wrmiller said:
Forgive my ignorance, but if you use -o6 cases to make a rimless .444 (and use the .444s reloading dies) why would you need a custom reamer? Wouldn't a .444 Marlin reamer work?
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You're right, kinda. Two factors may not allow the Marlin reamer to work.

First, the rimmed Marlin reamer may not have the sharp shoulder required to cut the lip for the 444 Rimless to headspace on. Since rimmed cartridges usually use a roll crimp, the case/bullet transition on the reamer is tapered. Rimless reamers have a distinct shoulder for those that headspace on the case mouth.

Second, it would depend on the particular breech face/barrel interface. With the Marlin being a rimmed cartridge, it naturally headspaces on the rim. This requires the barrel breech area, or at least a part of it, to be flat so the rim cut can be made. Most brass is solid for about .100 to .150" (maybe more) so chamber support isn't necessary in that area for a rimless cartridge. So, in a format that has a gap in the barrel/bolt area, the rim cut wouldn't happen.

So what I'm trying so clumsily to say is that in an AR10 bolt arrangement the 444 reamer may work. This was one area I planned to try (one day) as I happen to have a Marlin reamer.
 
wrat said:
Maybe. You could use a combination of reamers by carefully controlling depth. It's been done that way, put it that way. Custom reamer is, or course, quickest, easiest, and most repeatable, but expensive. So there are workarounds.

Never thought of it that way, but I think you're right. My goal is an AR15 in 44SuperAutomag (2.4" OAL) and an AR10 in .444Marlin Rimless. I figure that'll be a few more months of work. Got most all the parts, already.

I dunno. It's not horrible muddy, is it? After all, the whole thread started with an AR project. And besides, all these wildcat ideas is where a lot of machining happens.

Well... and a lot of scrap. But I try not to think about that ;-)

Wrat
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This is what happens when I post before reading all the new replies. I've used the 'reamer combination' method in the past with varying success. Most of the boo boos were mine, not the tools. When I said custom reamer, I actually meant cutting and grinding your own. Not real hard to do, but requires good dimensions and close attention to detail. Hardening can be accomplished with a regular MAPP torch and brine water or used motor oil.

As for the new thread, maybe just link the new builds so we don't miss anything.
 
Oh. Yea. Forgot about the 'rolled' vs. 'tapered' crimp. Sorry. :)

Not knowing a thing about reamers and not having a T&CG I'd likely have to have one custom made.
 
wrmiller said:
Forgive my ignorance, but if you use -o6 cases to make a rimless .444 (and use the .444s reloading dies) why would you need a custom reamer? Wouldn't a .444 Marlin reamer work?
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I have contemplated this project recently and thought I might share a couple thoughts. I would consider a spitzer style bullet like this one
http://www.hornady.com/store/44-Cal-.430-265-gr-FTX-for-444-Marlin/ This should help feeding in the S/A rifle
I think the 444 marlin length is going to be too long for 7.62X51 mags. I dont think the case needs to be that long, something like 1.600" up to around 1.875" should be about the right case length. I would think 2000 + fps should be attainable with 265 -300 grain bullets. Green mountain shows some barrels. Im not ready to pony up for the reamers just yet but it is an interesting idea. Might be real neat in an FAL
 
seasicksteve said:
I have contemplated this project recently and thought I might share a couple thoughts. I would consider a spitzer style bullet like this one
http://www.hornady.com/store/44-Cal-.430-265-gr-FTX-for-444-Marlin/ This should help feeding in the S/A rifle
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It would feed nicely, most probably, but for the lower pressures involved, an ordinary cast lead bullet would suffice. As it's not a levergun, as many .444Marlins are, there's no need for the plastic point. I mean, sure, a guy can run what he wants. Just pointing that out to anyone looking to build a thumper that doesn't cost as much to run. After pricing the .458SOCOM, and $2/shot ammo, that's what turned me onto rolling my own in the first place.
seasicksteve said:
I think the 444 marlin length is going to be too long for 7.62X51 mags. I dont think the case needs to be that long, something like 1.600" up to around 1.875" should be about the right case length.
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Oh, no, not full length. You're right, it'd be tough to get a full length to feed, even in rimless.
But the .308 is like 2.8 OAL and the Marlin is 2.55. So it'd fit, if not feed real well without some major lip work. Besides, if it's not fairly close to full length, a guy would have to modify each magazine to hold the cartridges back in place. Lips or bumpers, it's still a mag mod.
Cutting the .30-06 case at the shoulder, so as to minimize much forming of brass, would yield a case length of 1.95 so that'd be right in the range of your suggestion. Good idea.
seasicksteve said:
Might be real neat in an FAL
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Never had to re-barrel a FAL. But now that you mention it, that's a great idea. The FAL is heavier of course, but it also shoots a bit different. I would think a FAL would just gobble up a caliber like this. Now I wish i hadn't gotten rid of mine.

Wrat
 
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