- Joined
- Mar 12, 2014
- Messages
- 1,531
OK, following up after a long weekend of getting it completely up and running.
First off, Friday evening I noticed a large amount of black dust/particles coming from under the headstock/motor end of the lathe. I removed the cover to discover the belt had pretty much self destructed. I was not totally surprised by this as on my last machine the belts were one of the first parts I replaced as well and found the machine to be a completely new sounding and feeling machine. The belt on the PM1340GT originally appeared to be a decent looking belt, however, after only approx. 2 hours on it while breaking it in and running it for 5 minutes here and there it was toast.
I called my local NAPA and had them cross the part number off of the old belt over. They got one in for me within a couple of hours. I replaced the belt with NAPA part # 5L280W. The "W" is for heavy duty.
Here is what the OEM belt looked like after approx. 2 hours of total run time.
After replacing with new belt.
I confirmed the pulleys were aligned properly prior to running the machine at all and also re-confirmed that everything was in proper alignment when I detected the belt issue. I also double checked again after installing the new belt. The PM1340GT is a very quiet and smooth running lathe, however, after installing the new belt it was even quieter.
I then commenced checking all of the preliminary tests to ensure the lathes' setup and accuracy after traveling half way around the world. I started by checking the chucks and the repeatability as far as swapping chucks on and off of the spindle. I noted the position for the 3-jaw and my 6-jaw so when swapping them around I can be assured the accuracy is repeatable. I stamped a 3 and a 6 in the spindle to orientate either chuck. The original 3-jaw I was able to get to repeat within .0005" each time. Especially once I did a thorough cleaning of the inside of the chuck and the nose of the spindle taper. My Gator 6-jaw set-tru I was able to repeat at approx. .0006" in about 4 times of removal and installation.
Just want ahead and left my Gator 6-jaw on it for now.
Once I got the chucks completed I turned a piece of 1.5" aluminum 7" long to check headstock squareness and ensure it is parallel with the bed.
My first chips, facing a piece of 1.5" 60601 aluminum.
Next turning approx. 7 inches.
Once I got it cleaned up I took a light cut of about .004" and took a reading with a micrometer. Started @ .0021" in 7" length.
I just barely "tweaked" the outboard adjustment bolt on the back of the headstock and took another light cut of approx. .004". Ended dead nuts on in 7 inches.
Making my test bar to check alignment.
Boring the ID.
Shooting for about .0015" interference fit.
Parting off @ .875" wide.
Parts waiting to be pressed together.
Test bar completed and ready for use.
Light cut on both rings. Tailstock end.
Headstock end.
Dial indicator on tailstock to measure movement.
Final measurement at headstock end.
Tailstock end. Not bad, .0001" in 14". I'll take it.
My mess/chips from a few hours of machining. Now the lathe is set up and ready to go to work. I will change the oil in the next day or two and it will be ready to roll.
I also decided to go out yesterday and make a few modifications to fit my needs/wants. I had always wanted to fabricate a toolholder rack for my previous machine but never got around to it. I thought if I don't do it now, I probably won't so I took a few hours yesterday and customized my machine.
I cut some Unistrut and some aluminum pieces to construct a rack to hold my Aloris BXA toolholders. This will be mounted to the top of the backsplash providing easy reach and quick tool changes.
Mocked up on the bench.
Unistrut mounted on the top of the backsplash.
Toolholders mounted.
I also decided to fabricate a place to store my "T" handles where they were within easy reach yet out of the way. I cut some 1" OD 4130 chromoly tube that I had lying around and TIG welded them to a couple of 1" wide straps.
Thanks to Will (aka Darkzero) for doing the legwork and finding some paint that matches very closely to the PM equipment.
Here is the part # from Rustoleum if anyone else needs it.
Painted and mounted to the back of the headstock. I used existing screws from the electrical box.
This is what she looked like at the end of the weekend. Ready for a long life of hard work.
I will post up some more thoughts/opinions as I get a few more hours on it.
Mike.
First off, Friday evening I noticed a large amount of black dust/particles coming from under the headstock/motor end of the lathe. I removed the cover to discover the belt had pretty much self destructed. I was not totally surprised by this as on my last machine the belts were one of the first parts I replaced as well and found the machine to be a completely new sounding and feeling machine. The belt on the PM1340GT originally appeared to be a decent looking belt, however, after only approx. 2 hours on it while breaking it in and running it for 5 minutes here and there it was toast.
I called my local NAPA and had them cross the part number off of the old belt over. They got one in for me within a couple of hours. I replaced the belt with NAPA part # 5L280W. The "W" is for heavy duty.
Here is what the OEM belt looked like after approx. 2 hours of total run time.
After replacing with new belt.
I confirmed the pulleys were aligned properly prior to running the machine at all and also re-confirmed that everything was in proper alignment when I detected the belt issue. I also double checked again after installing the new belt. The PM1340GT is a very quiet and smooth running lathe, however, after installing the new belt it was even quieter.
I then commenced checking all of the preliminary tests to ensure the lathes' setup and accuracy after traveling half way around the world. I started by checking the chucks and the repeatability as far as swapping chucks on and off of the spindle. I noted the position for the 3-jaw and my 6-jaw so when swapping them around I can be assured the accuracy is repeatable. I stamped a 3 and a 6 in the spindle to orientate either chuck. The original 3-jaw I was able to get to repeat within .0005" each time. Especially once I did a thorough cleaning of the inside of the chuck and the nose of the spindle taper. My Gator 6-jaw set-tru I was able to repeat at approx. .0006" in about 4 times of removal and installation.
Just want ahead and left my Gator 6-jaw on it for now.
Once I got the chucks completed I turned a piece of 1.5" aluminum 7" long to check headstock squareness and ensure it is parallel with the bed.
My first chips, facing a piece of 1.5" 60601 aluminum.
Next turning approx. 7 inches.
Once I got it cleaned up I took a light cut of about .004" and took a reading with a micrometer. Started @ .0021" in 7" length.
I just barely "tweaked" the outboard adjustment bolt on the back of the headstock and took another light cut of approx. .004". Ended dead nuts on in 7 inches.
Making my test bar to check alignment.
Boring the ID.
Shooting for about .0015" interference fit.
Parting off @ .875" wide.
Parts waiting to be pressed together.
Test bar completed and ready for use.
Light cut on both rings. Tailstock end.
Headstock end.
Dial indicator on tailstock to measure movement.
Final measurement at headstock end.
Tailstock end. Not bad, .0001" in 14". I'll take it.
My mess/chips from a few hours of machining. Now the lathe is set up and ready to go to work. I will change the oil in the next day or two and it will be ready to roll.
I also decided to go out yesterday and make a few modifications to fit my needs/wants. I had always wanted to fabricate a toolholder rack for my previous machine but never got around to it. I thought if I don't do it now, I probably won't so I took a few hours yesterday and customized my machine.
I cut some Unistrut and some aluminum pieces to construct a rack to hold my Aloris BXA toolholders. This will be mounted to the top of the backsplash providing easy reach and quick tool changes.
Mocked up on the bench.
Unistrut mounted on the top of the backsplash.
Toolholders mounted.
I also decided to fabricate a place to store my "T" handles where they were within easy reach yet out of the way. I cut some 1" OD 4130 chromoly tube that I had lying around and TIG welded them to a couple of 1" wide straps.
Thanks to Will (aka Darkzero) for doing the legwork and finding some paint that matches very closely to the PM equipment.
Here is the part # from Rustoleum if anyone else needs it.
Painted and mounted to the back of the headstock. I used existing screws from the electrical box.
This is what she looked like at the end of the weekend. Ready for a long life of hard work.
I will post up some more thoughts/opinions as I get a few more hours on it.
Mike.